Thread: Worth Saving????

Originally Posted by powellm

Hi All

Some thoughts required please.

I have an old Liquid Arc Stick welder, not sure of the age see attached photos, original? leads have perished and I'd like some opinions on replacing the leads or would it be better to replace the whole unit.

I don't do a great deal of welding and am not what you'd call an expert, I do some practise before I weld each time and manage reasonable results I think

I'd like to keep costs down as much as possible

Cheers,

Cheaper to replace the leads I would think.

It looks like you might live near me .That machine is not that old maybe 10 -15 years.You obviously live near the coast line to get all that external corrosion.

Certainly the leads are due for replacement.Its probably a good idea toget the primary power cable looked at as well bu a sparkie as its a good idea to replace it as well given the condition of the other cables. A trip to the to a dedicated welding welding supply shop is indicated .

Take a sample of the leads with you for correct sizing.
Replacement of the terminal lugs may be a good idea as well.The lugs are cheap but the cable will be pricey as the world price of copper is up.
The good news is that this will improve the machine performance.

Grahame

Originally Posted by powellm

Hi All

Some thoughts required please.

I have an old Liquid Arc Stick welder, not sure of the age see attached photos, original? leads have perished and I'd like some opinions on replacing the leads or would it be better to replace the whole unit.

I don't do a great deal of welding and am not what you'd call an expert, I do some practise before I weld each time and manage reasonable results I think

I'd like to keep costs down as much as possible

Cheers,

Hey powellm

Your welder sad to say is probably worth more in scrap copper than to resell,...(but that can be a good thing!)

You have a few options:

a) Replace leads: might cost about $50.00 ? ( not really sure as I have never had to do this myself but a phone call to your local welding supplier will resolve that). Pluses are you will have one when you need it and lets face it we do like tinkering and its sad to see an old faithful tool go. You are also used to this machine , thats a big plus. It could well be your cheapest way out. Minuses , well from a purely commercial point of view you could well be over capitalizing taking into account resale value, replacement value, cost of leads, potential scrap and time spent on repair.

b) Buy a old second hand 140 or so stick welder: If you are in the right place at the right time you could pick up a similar powered and condition unit for $50.00- under $100.00 . Pluses , no cost of lead , no time lost repairing and scrap metal money in pocket . Could work out the same as above. Minuses : you could be buying someone else's problem, there is always adjusting to a new welder,your not getting (maybe) anything better and if your like me you'll put it off and then wont have one when you need it. Neither did you get a chance to tinker and have the satisfaction to fix it your self.

All these ones are starting to cost money : c) Buy a 2nd hand recognized brand name inverter Stick/tig ($500.00) Better machine and you'll have tig capability.
d) Buy a new Chinese Stick/tig ($500.00) ..NUP IMO
e) Buy a new recognized brand name inverter Stick/tig ($1000.00 - $1500.00)

I guess its up to you knowing what your requirements and budget is .See how much the new leads are , Your grandkids will be using it those older style machines last for ever.

Hope this helped.

Brett

Hi

Thanks for the replies guy's, looks like it's time for a trip to the welding supplies to price a new set of leads, just built a new house so $500 plus for a tig is out of the question at the mo, but the stick will be handy to have in a usable condition.

Thanks again

Matt

Though you could just tape up the welding leads with a double layer of tape.

If you can grt someone to make up a lead set for you, consider selling old ones to scrappy to offset the cost of the replacement.

Naked copper has a better scrap value than sheathed copper, so peel the insulation off if money is more important than time.

Originally Posted by echnidna

Though you could just tape up the welding leads with a double layer of tape.

Bob,

The insulation is there not only as an electrical insulation
but a thermal one as well. Sometimes when a cable is only heat affected it is often possible to shorten the cable and re lug it.
The cables pictured appear to be rubber sheathed and subject to a generalised degradation of the insulation media.

New cable sheathing is much improved and much safer and better resistant to cuts and scuffing.
A quick repair with a bit of tape is not going to do it in this case.
A cable in the stages of breaking down will heat up do to poor lug connections in 2 places either in the cable wire to lug connection or the lug to welder output bolt connection.

In the later case the heat causes oxidization to the lug surfaces and poor electrical flow results in more heat and so on.Every welder should be checked for this problem on a regular basis. On the bolted lug types simply moving the cables while working with them can cause looseness over time and heat breakdown.

Even bayonet connections eventually get loose and its wise to check and repair when necessary.

Yes you are only dealing with 80 volts or so, a third of the primary supply voltage but make no mistake, given the correct set of conditions, a shock it can kill you.

Hope it doesn't sound too much like a lecture but as the old timer boilies I worked with used to say"Be careful son,cos when you dead its for a long time "

keep safe then

Grahame

Hi

The old cable looks like "tin" not copper, am I Correct in assuming that it is actually copper that is coated with something?? and therefor still worth something at the scrappy?

Cheers

it'll be tin plated copper