Thread: My New, Old 24" Woodfast Scroll Saw

No wiring diagram on this one Camo...just 3 phases top and bottom...

Waiting for the next shipment to arrive into Bunnings and I'll take the lot !!!

$(KGrHqVHJDMFCe4jkMqzBQrDv5FGgg~~60_3.jpg


At opportunity, could you please post a pic of your starter internal/diagram ?

Regards
John

Originally Posted by jcge

No wiring diagram on this one Camo...just 3 phases top and bottom...

Waiting for the next shipment to arrive into Bunnings and I'll take the lot !!!

$(KGrHqVHJDMFCe4jkMqzBQrDv5FGgg~~60_3.jpg


At opportunity, could you please post a pic of your starter internal/diagram ?

Regards
John

Completely ready for that question (can never take too many pictures when pulling things apart IMO).

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Cheers,

Camo

Thanks Camo...much appreciated
Regards
John

Hi all,

Firstly just wanted to say nice restoration job there Camo, looks great.

Secondly, I've just acquired one of these saws myself but I'm not getting any air coming through the blower.

I've pulled the piston section apart and it's all clean and looks complete, any other ideas at all?

Also, have you had any trouble with blade alignment and blades breaking when put under the slightest pressure? I assume it's just the way I've aligned it when I've put them in but it never hurts to ask.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Cheers,
Chris.

Camo

Further to Chris's question regarding the blower mechanism, my Hyco is missing or has damaged a bunch of parts in the head assembly. Any pics you could post would be very helpful !!

Thanks
John

Hi guys,

Chris, sorry for not responding earlier, I am glad John asked a follow up, because somehow your question got lost amongst other emails.

Having given the unit only a brief test run, I also found the airflow to be below what I expected, I get a little bit, but definitely nothing to write home about (they were never designed to blow a lot of air, as this would just result in a face full of dust, but just enough to blow the dust off the cut line).

My first thought was that over time with the inner and outer pipes rubbing, they had worn enough that the seal has almost completely failing (my assumption being that it was not designed to have a perfect seal, and air escaped, but enough was trapped and sent down the pipe to be effective). I tested this idea by adding some plumbers tape to the end of the internal tube and firing it up, with my hand ready to feel the air for the 0.02 seconds before the tape got torn to shreds (and sure enough a very small period of air to the level I was originally expecting). What puzzled me about this theory is why they had put a lip on the edge of the internal pipe instead of just making the whole pipe a bigger diameter, spreading the load and reducing the risk of wear on the outer pipe.

Having now gone back and read the manual for the Walker Turner J740, a very similar machine, it appears that they probably originally had a leather washer (part 7J14-C for the Walker Turner).

exploded diagram walker turner j740 same as my one.pdf

Given that I will be setting up a dust extraction scoop for this machine anyway, I have not bothered to follow this up any further. If I was going to try to fix it, I think I would either try a rubber o-ring, or making a leather washer out of an old shoe, making sure that the grease fully penetrated the leather (the leather might be the better way to go as it would probably be less air tight, and less likely to roll up and down the shaft, and I don't think you want a perfect seal for this application), of cause the simple, but less original solution would be to simply use an aquarium pump to supply the air and bypass this completely.

Originally Posted by Clee

Also, have you had any trouble with blade alignment and blades breaking when put under the slightest pressure? I assume it's just the way I've aligned it when I've put them in but it never hurts to ask.

Are they breaking when applying the pressure, or when in use under light pressure? When you are adding the tension to the blade, is the lower shaft at top dead centre? What pressure are you setting (one of the manuals I read stated 8-10 pounds recommended)? If you do it when the bottom shaft is at the bottom of its travel or low down, it will actually result in not having enough travel and at the top of its travel the blade will actually be bent (I found this out the hard way, but with a thick blade so it didn't break, just made a scary noise), if I had used a thinner blade, I think it would have broken, as I would imagine the blade would struggle at the point when the blade goes from bent and under no pressure to being straight and under pressure.

Originally Posted by Clee

I've pulled the piston section apart and it's all clean and looks complete, any other ideas at all?

Chris just to make sure this isn't one of the issues with your blade breaks, I found that when I first set the machine up and did a couple of test cuts, that I had greatly under estimated the amount of grease to add to the parts, this resulted in the inner shaft binding as I applied pressure to the blade, effectively I would wind the handle, but instead of showing even increase in pressure it would shutter down.

Originally Posted by jcge

Camo

Further to Chris's question regarding the blower mechanism, my Hyco is missing or has damaged a bunch of parts in the head assembly. Any pics you could post would be very helpful !!

Thanks
John

I have a photo below of the parts of the head assembly (from when I dismantled the machine), obviously they don't give much detail, so I will be happy to take some closer shots and measurements for you of anything you want (just let me know what you need).

P1020232.jpg

Lastly, I have just come home from day surgery and I am on some fairly strong pain medication, so if you read this thread and it makes absolutely no sense, then please feel free to ask again, and I will try posting again when I am not under the influence.

Cheers,

Camo

Originally Posted by camoz

When you are adding the tension to the blade, is the lower shaft at top dead centre?

Thanks Camo

You have hit the nail on the head, I have been setting the tension on the blade while the lower shaft was at it's lowest point, I will now set it at top dead centre and hopefuly have no more trouble

Originally Posted by Clee

Thanks Camo

You have hit the nail on the head, I have been setting the tension on the blade while the lower shaft was at it's lowest point, I will now set it at top dead centre and hopefuly have no more trouble

Chris,

Great to hear, I found this manual http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4686.pdf & http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/3153.pdf to be very useful (it is not exactly the same machine, but seemed to be very similar to the Hafco).

Cheers,

Camo

Originally Posted by camoz

I have a photo below of the parts of the head assembly (from when I dismantled the machine), obviously they don't give much detail, so I will be happy to take some closer shots and measurements for you of anything you want (just let me know what you need).

P1020232.jpg

Cheers,
Camo

Camo

Thanks for the photo.....my main spring has been replaced with a couple (yes couple !!) of broken valve springs....so your original above is a great base to work from

Much appreciated.

Regards
John

In my cleanup I found a copy of the Woodfast model 24 Jigsaw specs. There are 5 pages including 2 diagrams. If you are interested in a copy I can email scan and email it to you.

Cheers Scott.

Originally Posted by Woodlens

In my cleanup I found a copy of the Woodfast model 24 Jigsaw specs. There are 5 pages including 2 diagrams. If you are interested in a copy I can email scan and email it to you.

Cheers Scott.

Scott,

That would be great. I will send you a PM with my email address.

Thanks,

Camo

Originally Posted by Woodlens

In my cleanup I found a copy of the Woodfast model 24 Jigsaw specs. There are 5 pages including 2 diagrams. If you are interested in a copy I can email scan and email it to you.

Cheers Scott.

Scott,

I got the email, thanks again for taking the time to scan and email this to me, I really appreciate it. (this is a special 2 thumbs up that I have never used before)

I have converted it to a PDF file, and thought I should load it up just in case someone in the future stumbles across it and finds it of use, I spend a fair time trying to work out what oil to put in the sump (page 2 would have answered that one easily for me).

I don't know how many times I have searched different forums looking for something, found someone who posted a question years back asking about exactly what I need......and then......and then...... (they had found what they were after and forgotten to leave a trace of it for the next person). So this is for the NEXT GUY:

Hafco 24 inch specification booklet2.pdf


Cheers,

Camoz

Camo,
Interesting to see Allan Wolfenden get a mention on the final assembly specifications...

Melbourne Matty.

Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970

Camo,
Interesting to see Allan Wolfenden get a mention on the final assembly specifications...

Melbourne Matty.

Good eye, I think I got distracted when I looked at the date at the top (1985), and then saw the quote, which finishes "price inc. GST".

Could it be an outsourcing for parts (a later repair)? Perhaps Scott might have some info on this?

cheers,

camoz