old architects/draughtsman board

[Clinton1]

Hey all,
I'll put this here... antique/collectable?... well, it is to me!

I have a drawing board (draughtsman board) that is 55" x 32" made by "Harding and Halden" of Woolongong.

It has an ebony projecting edge and the end grain is oil painted. Its made from 4 boards, with the drawing surface unfinished.
I use it as per its purpose, however the old compass marks are really annoying me.

Any ideas on what would have been used to 'recondition' this board?
As the drawing surface is unfinished (and as paper goes over it) ... I'm thinking I should skim the surface with a rice flour paste rather than a talc/oil mix??

pic of the underside attached... 'cause the design has stood the test of time and is pretty cool.

[Sir Stinkalot]

Hi Clint,

I have at least three drafting boards in the garage and I am certain one is very similar to what you have shown.
I was hoping your post would have been asking for ideas on what to do with them so I could get some ideas. At the moment I am thinking an outboard table for the table saw for the one on a hydraulic base.

One of the ones I have has the green lino type layer over it which would have been replaced as required - one of the others (used by my Grandfather) has a similar "patina" to yours so unfortunately I cannot answer your question.

Cheers

Stinky

[Clinton1]

At the moment I am thinking an outboard table for the table saw for the one on a hydraulic base .

Naughty!

[DSEL74]

Every "working" drawing board I have ever seen or used at work etc has had the pale "hospital" green vinyl surface. Most I think had a cedar or similar timber which is very soft.

Often see the old ones with the vinyl removed an the tops polished etc in antique store being sold as decorator pieces.

[auscab]

I use it as per its purpose, however the old compass marks are really annoying me.

Any ideas on what would have been used to 'recondition' this board?
As the drawing surface is unfinished (and as paper goes over it) ... I'm thinking I should skim the surface with a rice flour paste rather than a talc/oil mix??

pic of the underside attached... 'cause the design has stood the test of time and is pretty cool.

Ive got two of these ,one with the green vinyl the other is possibly silver Ash , not sure though , it's an Aussie hardwood and quite blonde . My timber one was split and the polish was bad , so I re joined, scraped and sanded, and re polished with shellac, I didn't have a lot of holes , any that were there were filled with a coloured plastibond mix to match the timber and dissapear, before polishing

Patina is nice on these things but I couldn't work with it if it had holes that the pencil lead could fall into and snap , the .5 and .7 lead is a pain in the butt with the snapping, without the holes.
A picture of your Board front would be more helpful .
If you want to solve the hole problem your either going to have to plane them away or fill them and if your filling them it needs to be reasonably hard ,
Sellys plastibond , coloured with dry earth pigments.
Rob

[wheelinround]

Old school boards Clinton or TAFE like I used during 60's then 70's

I recall refurbing school ones sanding filling lots of drawing pin holes and then a plastic was put over or sheets of paper. I still have 3 sets of drawing board clips

[Clinton1]

No old 'hospital green' covering (or remains of) can be seen on this... the drawing surface was left unfinished and used like that.
Actually, I remember the 'hospital green vinyl' you blokes are talking about... must have been a government lot for the 60's and 70's.

I don't want to sand this back, as I'll then have to chase my tail adjusting the square.

Timber is thumbnail soft, I wouldn't expect it to be a euc.

A pic of the drawing surface for Rob.

[auscab]

Do you know a bit about french polishing ? its a good way to give things a little or up to a lot.
one way I like giving things a quick improvement is to make a mix of linseed oil and turps 20% oil, and give the timber a light cut back with a fine paper like a worn 280 with the wood well wet down with the O&T mix get it all nice and smooth , thoroughly buff it dry , spread your rags out to dry or they can self combust . Then give it a rubber with a thin shellac mix till you like it .

Rob

[Colin62]

Actually, I remember the 'hospital green vinyl' you blokes are talking about... must have been a government lot for the 60's and 70's.

I think that hospital green vinyl was universal, cos I remember it from school and the draughting room at my first job (before the days of CAD systems), and I've never even been to Australia.

[DSEL74]

That wood looks just like mine under the vinyl. Like I said it looks like cedar to me, but I'm not expert.

[Clinton1]

but I'm not expert.

neither am I.

[Mobyturns]

Do you know a bit about french polishing ? its a good way to give things a little or up to a lot.
one way I like giving things a quick improvement is to make a mix of linseed oil and turps 20% oil, and give the timber a light cut back with a fine paper like a worn 280 with the wood well wet down with the O&T mix get it all nice and smooth , thoroughly buff it dry , spread your rags out to dry or they can self combust . Then give it a rubber with a thin shellac mix till you like it .

Rob

No linseed oil on draughtsmans boards! I would be going with the french polishers techniques.

From memory the boards we used were some form of cedar like western red cedar and were covered with the self healing vinyl, or at least they handled compass points. I still have one of the portable adjustable stands and boards with a draughting machine plus one of the old NC Scriber lettering machines.

[Uncle Al]

The timber might be first grade clear oregon.
Just a suggestion.

Alan...

[The Bleeder]

The timber might be first grade clear oregon.
Just a suggestion.

Alan...

Alan is right. The ones I used in High School were Oregon (did Tech Drawing and Industrial Arts). Yes hospital green was the vogue at the time.

When it can time to replace it the borad was lightly sanded (and I mean lightly) then Shellac was applied and sanded or buffed as necessary.

Then a new piece of hospital green was added. Really didn't like it so I used a piece of thin cardboard when I did my exams.

[auscab]

No linseed oil on draughtsmans boards! I would be going with the french polishers techniques.

Why would you not want to use linseed oil on a draughtsmans board ?

Rob