Thread: I have a cunning plan (for japanning)

Originally Posted by jmk89

Does anyone have the "tree" that holds the rods at the free end? If so, could you photograph it from a few views (front elevation, side elevation, top plan and bottom plan preferred) with some sort of gauge or rule so I can see if I can fabricate something that looks a bit like the picture in the catalogue? It is item 147 in the parts list (and no it isn't available from Stanley still)
Attachment 497061

Jeremy

I have a attached a couple of pics from Stanley catalogues that may be a little clearer than the one you have posted above (figs 10 in both). It looks as though the 246 series used the same stand as the 2246. These shots are from a 1941 catalogue.

Stanley Mitre Box 246.jpgStanley Mitre Box 2246.jpg

I have the stand in question attached to a No.2246, so later today I will take some pix and post them here.

Regards
Paul

Thanks very much Paul.
One question - what is the purpose of the upper cross piece under the upper hole?

A few more shots :

P1070670 (Medium).JPGP1070671 (Medium).JPGP1070673 (Medium).JPGP1070672 (Medium).JPGP1070674 (Medium).JPGP1070675 (Medium).JPGP1070676 (Medium).JPGP1070678 (Medium).JPGP1070677 (Medium).JPG

and some dimensions

P1070680 (Medium).JPG

The measurements are fairly accurate but I just traced around the stand with a fat pencil so it is only the general shape. Two important dimensions I realised I missed:

The centre of the lower hole is 20mm from the bottom of the base and the centre of the upper hole is 92 mm from the bottom of the base. However, the lower hole in particular has to match the hole in your mitre box and the upper hole must allow the rod to clear the height of the deck.

I hope this helps you and let me know if you require more information. In regard to your question about the "Tee", I can only assume it is there for a combination of strength and aesthetics and possibly the ease of manufacturing the casting.

Apologies for the diagram. I am an awful draughtsman. (click on the pix for larger illustrations)

Regards
Paul

Many thanks for taking so much trouble for me.

The pictures and the diagram will really help me come up with a practical DIY alternative that is a bit more than just a block of wood with two holes and two screws! Although that might be what I use as an interim solution - as we all know, interim can be a very long time!

Originally Posted by jmk89

Many thanks for taking so much trouble for me.

The pictures and the diagram will really help me come up with a practical DIY alternative that is a bit more than just a block of wood with two holes and two screws! Although that might be what I use as an interim solution - as we all know, interim can be a very long time!

Jeremy

No trouble: It is all there for the interim expiry date.



Just be aware that while the models "appear" to share the same stand, it is possible there are small variations. However, the crucial aspects will be the heights of the stop rods.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Just be aware that while the models "appear" to share the same stand, it is possible there are small variations. However, the crucial aspects will be the heights of the stop rods.

Regards
Paul

Noted and understood. Perhaps a wooden prototype would be a good idea!

Here's the mitre box completed (for the moment) with a wooden 'tower' for the length stop device. This is used to ensure that if multiple pieces of the same length are required, that length can be set using a stop. Here are some photos
IMG_0651.jpgIMG_0652.jpgIMG_0653.jpgIMG_0655.jpg
As you can see there are two rods. The second rod has a joiner on it.

If the length that is to be set is inside the perimeter of the deck of the box, the second rod is inserted in the top position of the tower and the end of the joiner used as a stop to set the length. If the length extends less than 450mm over the deck, only the bottom rod is used and the length is set by the tower side. If the desired length is between 450 and 950mm beyond the end of the deck, the second rod is joined to the bottom rod using the joiner and the side of the tower is again used as the stop. Actually the second and third situations can be covered by the third only and the stop position set by moving the rod under the deck and out again or by moving the tower or a combination of both. I suppose it depends on what lengths you are likely to have to cut in a particular session which way you go.

Here are a couple of additional photos with a piece of timber put on the deck, which might make this explanation a bit clearer!
IMG_0656.jpgIMG_0658.jpg

Hi jm,

nice clean up of the mitre box, I hope you can acquire an length stop stand

they are out there, just a bit scarce...

I have a few of these boxes and the things I like about them are their ability

to be adjusted for accuracy and their flexible capabilities.

Have fun...

Graham.