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20th June 2021, 03:54 PM #1
I have a cunning plan (for japanning)
As many of you know, have a recipe for japanning metal which I use when restoring planes and other japanned tools. I attach a PDF of the recipe.
The only issue I’ve ever had with it is being allowed by SWMBO to use the oven to bake it.
I am restoring a Stanley Mitre box and was lighting the Weber to cook the Sunday roast when I thought that this was an opportunity to cook the japanning without losing brownie points.
After the roast came out, in go the coated pieces. I’ll leave them until the barbecue has cooled right down.
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/60ceca19...g%20recipe.pdfCheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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20th June 2021 03:54 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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21st June 2021, 03:11 AM #2Senior Member
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Charcoal-fired artisanal japanning! You should do a video, or a book . No, actually, it's a clever idea, and uses the heat already generated for making dinner, so a win all around, and you won't tick off the bride.
In case these haven't made their way across the Pacific: Maker Series: Artisanal Firewood | CBC Radio (Comedy/Satire) - YouTube and http://artisanalpencilsharpening
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21st June 2021, 11:25 AM #3
Not only artisanal, but you get brownie points because you have shared a cooking chore!
And it worked - aside from a little fly ash from the briquets (charcoal would be better fuel for both cooking and japanning, but beggars can't be choosers) - the japanning cooked nicely. I'll polish it a bit and call it done. I think that I'll re-mask the back board section and chrome paint the raised metal sections. Then I have to see if I can remember how to put it back together again!Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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21st June 2021, 12:10 PM #4
Jeremy, that looks good. How long to cure the japanning?
I have used a cold japanning recipe I git from the late Stephen Shepherd. This consists of spar varnish and asphaltum powder. Just leave the tool in the sun for several hours, and then allow a couple of days to cure. It works very well. The first coat looks brown, but the last is a deep black.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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21st June 2021, 02:41 PM #5
I just left the pieces in the barbecue overnight and they were done in the morning .
I can’t remember where I got my recipe - I’ve had it for more than 12 years because I can remember using it when I was living in my previous house!
Theoretically, japanning should be heat hardened- according to Brown’s Handbook on Japanning it is this that distinguishes it from paint. Brown also says you need to heat harden after every coat. I must admit that I just do two heat treatments after about the third and fifth coats (weekly barbecues, so I can put a few extra coats on during the week and they are fully dried in time to Weberise them on the weekend).Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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21st June 2021, 04:48 PM #6
fascinating.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/archi.../t-109892.html
Ashphaltum is not so readily available, but this is excellent to know.
Asphaltum 250ml
Rublev Colours Dry Pigments 100g - S2 Gilnstone (Asphaltum)
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21st June 2021, 05:14 PM #7
Looking up Ashphalatum/gibsonite, it looks to be about 90% carbon.
Any reason why carbon black, or artists charcoal could not be used in the mix?
These are MUCH cheaper than Ashpalatum and a million times more readily available....
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21st June 2021, 07:24 PM #8
Because Gilsonite/asphaltum is based on crude oil it dissolves in hydrocarbon solvents making the solution really smooth and easy to apply. Alternatives might form clumps in the goo.
Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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22nd June 2021, 02:11 AM #9Senior Member
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I wonder if roof patch would work? It's a mixture of things, not pure asphalt, though. Or I wonder if asphalt emulsion, as used to repair driveways, would work?
Roof patch: 208(R) Wet Patch(R) Roof Leak Repair
Asphalt emulsion: APOC 300 Non-Fibered Asphalt Emulsion - roofingdirect.com
But, of course and as always, I have no idea if these items, common in the States, are available in Oz.
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22nd June 2021, 11:31 AM #10
Bituminous paint is available to seal roofs but my experience of it is that it’s pretty gunky and difficult to apply in smooth coats. I prefer to pay a little more and use the product that has history on its side!
Here are some photos of the frame being masked and unmasked after spraying with cold chrome
Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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22nd June 2021, 11:55 AM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Jeremy
I'm a bit interested in the chrome spray. There are times that tools involve a large metal surface that could use a protective surface. I am thinking particularly of lever caps in restored Stanley-pattern planes where often the nickel plating will be flaking off or damaged. Paint is not suitable for myriad reasons. One can polish the metal on the front (face) and sides but the back has recessed areas that are a bit rough and it feels a bit half-arsed to only clean up the front side.
How does that chromed area of the mitre box hold up and look under light? It looks a bit flat and "painty" from that photo but I suspect it is much better in person.
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22nd June 2021, 01:37 PM #12
If ye are looking for a good chrome effect, ALSA Easy Chrome is mind boggling.... watch this: Alsa Brush on Chrome Paint - YouTube
BRUSH it on!
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22nd June 2021, 01:49 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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Wow, I'm looking into it.
The price sure is mind-boggling too! Alsa Easy Chrome
That is the price that came up on a quick google.
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22nd June 2021, 06:27 PM #14
Just realised I picked up the wrong can
Oh well I have zinc finishCheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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29th June 2021, 10:06 AM #15
Here is the mitre box back together with the bits I had. I need to put in the top bar (piece of 1/2" x 1/8" steel) and then make the length rod mechanism.
IMG_0646.jpgIMG_0645.jpg
Does anyone have the "tree" that holds the rods at the free end? If so, could you photograph it from a few views (front elevation, side elevation, top plan and bottom plan preferred) with some sort of gauge or rule so I can see if I can fabricate something that looks a bit like the picture in the catalogue? It is item 147 in the parts list (and no it isn't available from Stanley still)
Stanley mb3 (1).pngCheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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