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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Lindfield N.S.W.
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    Default I have a cunning plan (for japanning)

    As many of you know, have a recipe for japanning metal which I use when restoring planes and other japanned tools. I attach a PDF of the recipe.

    The only issue I’ve ever had with it is being allowed by SWMBO to use the oven to bake it.

    I am restoring a Stanley Mitre box and was lighting the Weber to cook the Sunday roast when I thought that this was an opportunity to cook the japanning without losing brownie points.

    After the roast came out, in go the coated pieces. I’ll leave them until the barbecue has cooled right down.

    http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/60ceca19...g%20recipe.pdf
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sebastopol, California, USA
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    172

    Default

    Charcoal-fired artisanal japanning! You should do a video, or a book . No, actually, it's a clever idea, and uses the heat already generated for making dinner, so a win all around, and you won't tick off the bride.

    In case these haven't made their way across the Pacific: Maker Series: Artisanal Firewood | CBC Radio (Comedy/Satire) - YouTube and http://artisanalpencilsharpening

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Lindfield N.S.W.
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    Default

    Not only artisanal, but you get brownie points because you have shared a cooking chore!

    And it worked - aside from a little fly ash from the briquets (charcoal would be better fuel for both cooking and japanning, but beggars can't be choosers) - the japanning cooked nicely. I'll polish it a bit and call it done. I think that I'll re-mask the back board section and chrome paint the raised metal sections. Then I have to see if I can remember how to put it back together again!
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Jeremy, that looks good. How long to cure the japanning?

    I have used a cold japanning recipe I git from the late Stephen Shepherd. This consists of spar varnish and asphaltum powder. Just leave the tool in the sun for several hours, and then allow a couple of days to cure. It works very well. The first coat looks brown, but the last is a deep black.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Lindfield N.S.W.
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    Default

    I just left the pieces in the barbecue overnight and they were done in the morning .
    I can’t remember where I got my recipe - I’ve had it for more than 12 years because I can remember using it when I was living in my previous house!
    Theoretically, japanning should be heat hardened- according to Brown’s Handbook on Japanning it is this that distinguishes it from paint. Brown also says you need to heat harden after every coat. I must admit that I just do two heat treatments after about the third and fifth coats (weekly barbecues, so I can put a few extra coats on during the week and they are fully dried in time to Weberise them on the weekend).
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    fascinating.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/archi.../t-109892.html

    Ashphaltum is not so readily available, but this is excellent to know.

    Asphaltum 250ml
    Rublev Colours Dry Pigments 100g - S2 Gilnstone (Asphaltum)

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
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    Default

    Looking up Ashphalatum/gibsonite, it looks to be about 90% carbon.

    Any reason why carbon black, or artists charcoal could not be used in the mix?

    These are MUCH cheaper than Ashpalatum and a million times more readily available....

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Lindfield N.S.W.
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    Default

    Because Gilsonite/asphaltum is based on crude oil it dissolves in hydrocarbon solvents making the solution really smooth and easy to apply. Alternatives might form clumps in the goo.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sebastopol, California, USA
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    Default

    I wonder if roof patch would work? It's a mixture of things, not pure asphalt, though. Or I wonder if asphalt emulsion, as used to repair driveways, would work?

    Roof patch: 208(R) Wet Patch(R) Roof Leak Repair
    Asphalt emulsion: APOC 300 Non-Fibered Asphalt Emulsion - roofingdirect.com

    But, of course and as always, I have no idea if these items, common in the States, are available in Oz.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Default

    Bituminous paint is available to seal roofs but my experience of it is that it’s pretty gunky and difficult to apply in smooth coats. I prefer to pay a little more and use the product that has history on its side!

    Here are some photos of the frame being masked and unmasked after spraying with cold chrome

    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Age
    43
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    519

    Default

    Hi Jeremy

    I'm a bit interested in the chrome spray. There are times that tools involve a large metal surface that could use a protective surface. I am thinking particularly of lever caps in restored Stanley-pattern planes where often the nickel plating will be flaking off or damaged. Paint is not suitable for myriad reasons. One can polish the metal on the front (face) and sides but the back has recessed areas that are a bit rough and it feels a bit half-arsed to only clean up the front side.

    How does that chromed area of the mitre box hold up and look under light? It looks a bit flat and "painty" from that photo but I suspect it is much better in person.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
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    5,124

    Default

    If ye are looking for a good chrome effect, ALSA Easy Chrome is mind boggling.... watch this: Alsa Brush on Chrome Paint - YouTube

    BRUSH it on!

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Age
    43
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    519

    Default

    Wow, I'm looking into it.

    The price sure is mind-boggling too! Alsa Easy Chrome

    That is the price that came up on a quick google.

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    If ye are looking for a good chrome effect, ALSA Easy Chrome is mind boggling.... watch this: Alsa Brush on Chrome Paint - YouTube

    BRUSH it on!

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Default

    Just realised I picked up the wrong can


    Oh well I have zinc finish
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Lindfield N.S.W.
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    Default

    Here is the mitre box back together with the bits I had. I need to put in the top bar (piece of 1/2" x 1/8" steel) and then make the length rod mechanism.
    IMG_0646.jpgIMG_0645.jpg
    Does anyone have the "tree" that holds the rods at the free end? If so, could you photograph it from a few views (front elevation, side elevation, top plan and bottom plan preferred) with some sort of gauge or rule so I can see if I can fabricate something that looks a bit like the picture in the catalogue? It is item 147 in the parts list (and no it isn't available from Stanley still)
    Stanley mb3 (1).png
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

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