Thread: Dawn Disaster

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Fantastic job

Hats off to Matty.

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by Vann

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Fantastic job

Hats off to Matty.

Cheers, Vann.

Looks good. If you wanted to try to blend it (make that section look more like cast dimpled), I had read somewhere recently (sorry to the person who suggested it for not referencing to them), that you can use an air needle scaler to give it a dimpled effect.

cheers,

camo

Originally Posted by camoz

Looks good. If you wanted to try to blend it (make that section look more like cast dimpled), I had read somewhere recently (sorry to the person who suggested it for not referencing to them), that you can use an air needle scaler to give it a dimpled effect.

cheers,

camo

What is an air needle scaler?? Is it like a small burr?
I guess rough sandblasting might also do it.

A needle scaler, (also known as a J gun), is best described as a group of hardened steel needles around 3mm diameter that are impacted by a reciprocating piston driven by air from a compressor thus tapping against the workpiece rapidly, removing paint, scale or welding slag. The finish left is a gently dimpled surface that will accept paint readily and resembles somewhat the finish of Cast Iron. If the Needle scaler is powerful enough, there can be a type of peening produced that can relieve surface stresses too although shot peening is more effective in this role.
On a side note and I don't want to seem hypercritical, but I hope that the casting was prepared substantially more than the photographs showed. There was no where near sufficient bevel to give adequate weld penetration, exacerbated by the fact that the welds were ground flush afterwards. Always aim for 100% penetration when repairing any casting.

Originally Posted by Karl Robbers

On a side note and I don't want to seem hypercritical, but I hope that the casting was prepared substantially more than the photographs showed. There was no where near sufficient bevel to give adequate weld penetration, exacerbated by the fact that the welds were ground flush afterwards. Always aim for 100% penetration when repairing any casting.

The bevels were done to both inner and outer surfaces, a small section was left to align the pieces. It seems solid and I hope it will hold, got to be better than epoxy.

It has had 2 dunks in an electrolysis bath and has come up quite clean, but the darn thing is tighter than a proverbial Nun's @#$%, and I think only God could separate it.
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I really have run out of ideas the thing just won't budge regardless of how much force. I think it going to have to be deemed a decorative item. !

Originally Posted by DSEL74

It has had 2 dunks in an electrolysis bath and has come up quite clean, but the darn thing is tighter than a proverbial Nun's @#$%, and I think only God could separate it.
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I really have run out of ideas the thing just won't budge regardless of how much force. I think it going to have to be deemed a decorative item. !

have you tried heat?

Originally Posted by camoz

have you tried heat?

Yep, tried the MAP Torch on it after it was welded and had no effect. Also tried CRC, WD40, Pentrene, Kero, And Dishwashing Liquid in hot water multiple times.

Well I have done both Electrolysis and molasses on this drill and have to say both produce equivalent results.
Both require a bit of a scrub after, the only real differences are that Electrolysis will strip paint and will get the same level of result in 1 Day that molasses gets in 1 week.
Molasses also won't get through grease.



Straight out of a 2week Dip in Molasses

Dawn Apart01.jpgDawn Apart07.jpgDawn Apart09.jpg

Followed by a wire wheeling.

Dawn Apart14.jpgDawn smaller b1.jpg

One of my next dilemmas comes from where do you stop with a restoration vs go to far?
As the can see here the are parts of the castings that weren't cleaned up properly at all, many seams are showing in that castings as well as where the sprue and risers were run off.

Dawn smaller c2.jpgDawn smaller c3.jpg

I would files this all back it it was my casting job. I am considering cleaning it all up. However this would change the historic significance of the drill, i.e. they were made rough and should be preserved that way.





So who wants the good news or the bad news???…………….

Good news………….. is I finally got the drill freed up and apart. Something I thought was never going to happen...
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Bad News……….Is I nearly lost my arm to the lathe! I was cleaning the drive shaft with some sand paper wen the cuff of my sleeve caught and my arm got pulled into the machine.
I was in upto my armpit when I managed to hit the clutch brake and stoop the machine. I had a hell of a time getting free and have walked away quite bruised,lacerated but very thankful I am intact.
Dawn smaller c1.jpg

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Bad News……….Is I nearly lost my arm to the lathe! I was cleaning the drive shaft with some sand paper wen the cuff of my sleeve caught and my arm got pulled into the machine.
I was in upto my armpit when I managed to hit the clutch brake and stoop the machine. I had a hell of a time getting free and have walked away quite bruised,lacerated but very thankful I am intact.
Dawn smaller c1.jpg

Glad to hear you didn't kill youself or rip an arm off. That would have given a whole new meaning to "Dawn Disaster". Hope the wounds heal soon.

Take care !!! Vann.

Dale !!

I'm glad nothing real serious happened, and that may be that lathe just wounded your pride a little could of been the best outcome, I think we have all been caught out before on machinery, some of us lucky to escape, some not so lucky..
Happy to hear you got it apart at least and freed up.
Push on with the restoration mate, that dawn will look great painted up !!

Melbourne Matty.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

One of my next dilemmas comes from where do you stop with a restoration vs go to far?
As the can see here the are parts of the castings that weren't cleaned up properly at all, many seams are showing in that castings as well as where the sprue and risers were run off...However this would change the historic significance of the drill, i.e. they were made rough and should be preserved that way.

In the end, it's your post drill (or blacksmith's drill ) to do what you like with. But if it were mine, and if it's complete and in reasonable nick, I'd leave it as it is, risers and all. And this one seems to be a unique variation too.

On the other hand, my CanB&F with repaired main casting, cracked flywheel spokes, and numerous missing parts, may just get bearings fitted to the flywheel shaft* and the spindle... (whereas my Dawn will stay as original as possible).

HTH with your decision.

Cheers, Vann.

*flywheel axle?

I have lacerations on my wrist, forearm and bicep, they have gone down a bit in swelling and they are just red now not purple. In fact some are now looking more like scratches and blood blistery type thing under the skin.

Matty, I don't have any pride to hurt so no worries there. It was more shock than anything.


Vann, Axle vs Shaft more definitions to decide on I think shaft is more appropriate as it is driven.