Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 53

Thread: Dawn Post Drill

  1. #16
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bakers Hill WA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    1,070

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post


    I am frightened .. amazed .. excited .. and even a trifle scared

    Very nice

    Paul McGee
    Paul, it's like a disease, you hear other people have it but don't expect to come down with it yourself, and then, and then.......aaarrrrgh!

    G.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Okay. I've dismantelled the drill press - as much as I can.

    Unfortunately the flywheel shaft is stuck fast. 3 days ago I cleaned out the oil hole and poured in some kerosine. Still it hasn't begun to weep at either end of the shaft.

    Fortunately, a previous owner has driven the shaft through far enough that the teeth no long engage and drill can turn - sans flywheel - but I haven't sourced a flywheel yet anyway. I think, in the process of driving the flywheel shaft part way through, the previous owner has "peined" the end of the shaft, making it too big to go any further.

    I've tried a pipe wrench on the gearwheel and can just move it on the shaft, but it's left teeth marks on the flywheel boss.

    So, next I'm considering heating the whole casting to try to free the shaft. Any ideas how hot (I can use SWMBOs oven as she's away in a school trip this week ).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    72
    Posts
    1,986

    Default

    Hi Vann,
    I think hitting anything on these drills is a bad move. If you have to use force for anything, use a press or some sort.
    I suggest you clean all the corrosion off the spindle between body and gear and use a press to move it a little bit, using penetrating oil like Inox instread of kero. It seems to creep better still. Diesel is better than kero too. Once you crack the bond, it will come loose quickly.
    Joe

  5. #19
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bakers Hill WA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    1,070

    Default

    Hi Vann,
    When I bought my Tough it was siezed up at every joint and I used the oxy torch to gently warm it and break the bond of the rust. I don't know how effective the kitchen oven would be, but it's worth a try if thats your only option.
    If you think the end of the shaft has been peined you may have to carefully file it back to the correct size.
    If you havn't got a press try this. Get a big flat washer and a socket that clear the shaft, with the washer against the face of the cog ( to distribute the pressure) and clamp the whole lot up with a big G cramp. Once you've got the cramp as tight as you can, give it a good smack with a hammer, you may get a bit of movement, retighten the cramp and hit it again. You might like to use a copper hammer or a bit of wood between the cramp and the ball pein.
    Best of luck if your SWAMBO springs you using her oven.
    Regards,
    Geoff.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
    Posts
    834

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Nice one Vann!
    If you want detailed dimensions for the flywheel, let me know and I'll measure mine.
    Something like a large barbell weight could be made into a suitable flywheel I think.
    Same with the bottom bracket. That's an easy fabrication.
    There is another issue with these drills: they were very poorly made and the auto feed lever that runs on the crank wheel cam is far too far away from the cam. To give you the possible 3 ratchet steps per revolution that you will want for dmaller hole in wood can't be achieved the way it is. Do test yours - I could only get one tooth per revolution feed, and Phil (steamwhisperer) found the same on his.
    I screwed a strip of bronze onto the surface of my fee lever/cam follower with a couple of 5/32" screws to close the gap. That gives me a range of one to three teeth per rev feed.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    Joe

    Is there a chance you could post a picture of the feed lever modification, I've picked up a 616 model Dawn today and would like to make the same change to it once I've cleaned it up a bit.

    Rgds - Gavin

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default



    And Gavin, can we have some photos of your new baby? I'll be posting more photos of mine in a day or two.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
    Posts
    834

    Default

    Vann

    I know the rules, no photos - it never happened.

    I picked it up this morning so I haven't had a chance to clean it up but at first glance everything seems to be present and intact and all the gear teeth look good with no obvious signs of wear. Everything is coated in a good layer of grease and oil so there's no rust to speak of.

    I'm a bit of a tragic for the older machinery, the look and feel is much more rewarding that the modern far eastern stuff. As such, most of the old gear I have has had a quick clean-up and gets put into service straight away, my Hercus power hacksaw and Tough brand drill press, both mid 1950s vintage, get used full-time with few concessions to their age apart from plenty of oil & grease.

    This one might be different, I don't need a post drill and have no day to day use for one, normal drilling gets done on the Tough, large work gets done on the mill - but what the hell, we only live once. So this one will probably get stripped down, cleaned and restored properly and get used from time to time "just because"......

    Amazingly, my wife understands this disease and encourages it....

    Attachment 200331

    Attachment 200332

    Attachment 200333

    Attachment 200334

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    72
    Posts
    1,986

    Default

    Gavin,
    the 616 has a completely different feed actuator arrangement.
    However, a similar mod might still work on the curved surface of the cam follower.
    My mod is visible in my Dawn resto thread or this picture. The strip is on the underside of the cam follower end of the feed lever - I painted it black so as not to draw attention to it....
    Cheers,
    Joe

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Hi Gavin. Like you I have a soft spot for old machinery - but unlike you I've not done anything about it until the acquisition of this drill press (unless you count the numerous planes, braces and eggbeater drills I've err.. gathered, in the last couple of years .) I'm primarily wanting to do woodwork, but a little metal work happens from time to time.

    My current drill press is a 1960s Black & Decker electric drill in a stand (stop laughing ) and it's well overdue for replacement.

    While I don't know that's it's going to be any good for woodwork, the post drill is an attempt to find a replacement (and it appeals to the neanderthal in me ).

    But I'm envious. Your #616 is 2-speed.

    Looking at your photos, it appears that the fast speed is the same as on the Dawn #611 - the spindle cog looks to have ~30 teeth (#611 = 30t), main crank cog ~45 or 46t (#611 = 46t), flywheel cog ~22t (#611 = 22t), giving a 1:1.53 crank to spindle speed ratio. But I see the #616 has a greater reach, heavier spindle and pillar, and longer travel.

    Thanks for sharing.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
    Posts
    834

    Default

    Vann

    I'm the reverse, I'm primarily an swarf maker with the occasional foray into the woodwork side of things. I'd love the 4 head drill at the bottom of page 2, how cool would that be.

    Rgds - Gavin

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    72
    Posts
    1,986

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    But I'm envious. Your #616 is 2-speed.
    Actually, my 611 is variable speed, cordless and reversible - must be the rare delux model

    Joe

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
    Posts
    834

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Actually, my 611 is variable speed, cordless and reversible - must be the rare delux model

    Joe
    That would be the armstrong model.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Actually, my 611 is variable speed, cordless and reversible - must be the rare delux model


    While deciding how to tackle the seized flywheel shaft I’ve cleaned up most of the feedscrew and spindle assembly. I still have to clean up the spindle cog before I can begin reassembly.

    There’s a little damage to the feedscrew nut sleeve where the retaining screw has gripped it. But it’s not causing a problem (and I don’t know how to repair it anyway).

    I notice the advertising blurb calls this machine the ”Dawn” Ball-bearing Post Drill and states The main spindle…of the “DAWN” No. 611 featuring the “Improved Dawn Coupler and Ball Bearing Thrust”. Yet the coupler fitted to mine consists of two steel washers with a fibre washer between. It must be an earlier unimproved version.

    The two half-washers that lock the spindle into the coupler are much thinner than the groove they locate in, and are dished. I’m wondering if I should get new, thicker, half-washers made up?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    72
    Posts
    1,986

    Default

    Depending in what you plan to do with the drill, I suggest you get a ball thrust bearing from the local bearing shop and make new half washers - or just put it back together with some high moly content grease.
    The ball thrust bearing makes it usable for drilling reasonably sized holes in steel - I wouldn't attempt that with a thrust washer. My guess is the bearing was worn out or lost....
    Joe

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
    Posts
    834

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post


    I notice the advertising blurb calls this machine the ”Dawn” Ball-bearing Post Drill and states The main spindle…of the “DAWN” No. 611 featuring the “Improved Dawn Coupler and Ball Bearing Thrust”. Yet the coupler fitted to mine consists of two steel washers with a fibre washer between. It must be an earlier unimproved version.

    The two half-washers that lock the spindle into the coupler are much thinner than the groove they locate in, and are dished. I’m wondering if I should get new, thicker, half-washers made up?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Either that or someone has had it apart and replaced the bearing with the fibre washer, I've just pulled the spindle out of my 616 model (the 2 speed version) to bore the end out for a chuck arbor and it definitely has a radial ball bearing thrust washer.

    The 2 half washers stop the spindle from falling out of the carrier, on mine they are almost the same thickness as the groove and are not dished, perhaps yours have been worn from taking the thrust in the absence of the ball-bearings. On mine, between the top of the spindle and the bottom of the feed screw there are, in order, a flat washer with about a 3/4" hole, a flat disc, the ball-bearing carrier, another flat disc and then another washer.

    Rgds - Gavin

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Chasing a chuck for Dawn vintage drill press
    By PeterM in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 18th June 2013, 01:32 AM
  2. dawn hand drill on ebay.
    By bluegum30 in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 27th July 2009, 08:45 PM
  3. Dawn Post Drill
    By blooh in forum G'day mate - THE WELCOME WAGON -Introduce yourself
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 15th July 2008, 12:45 PM
  4. Fitting a Dawn # 8
    By Santalum in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 23rd February 2007, 11:29 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •