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Thread: Dawn Post Drill
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24th February 2012, 09:55 AM #16Try not to be late, but never be early.
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26th February 2012, 06:33 PM #17
Okay. I've dismantelled the drill press - as much as I can.
Unfortunately the flywheel shaft is stuck fast. 3 days ago I cleaned out the oil hole and poured in some kerosine. Still it hasn't begun to weep at either end of the shaft.
Fortunately, a previous owner has driven the shaft through far enough that the teeth no long engage and drill can turn - sans flywheel - but I haven't sourced a flywheel yet anyway. I think, in the process of driving the flywheel shaft part way through, the previous owner has "peined" the end of the shaft, making it too big to go any further.
I've tried a pipe wrench on the gearwheel and can just move it on the shaft, but it's left teeth marks on the flywheel boss.
So, next I'm considering heating the whole casting to try to free the shaft. Any ideas how hot (I can use SWMBOs oven as she's away in a school trip this week ).
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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26th February 2012, 09:44 PM #18
Hi Vann,
I think hitting anything on these drills is a bad move. If you have to use force for anything, use a press or some sort.
I suggest you clean all the corrosion off the spindle between body and gear and use a press to move it a little bit, using penetrating oil like Inox instread of kero. It seems to creep better still. Diesel is better than kero too. Once you crack the bond, it will come loose quickly.
Joe
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27th February 2012, 10:11 AM #19Try not to be late, but never be early.
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Hi Vann,
When I bought my Tough it was siezed up at every joint and I used the oxy torch to gently warm it and break the bond of the rust. I don't know how effective the kitchen oven would be, but it's worth a try if thats your only option.
If you think the end of the shaft has been peined you may have to carefully file it back to the correct size.
If you havn't got a press try this. Get a big flat washer and a socket that clear the shaft, with the washer against the face of the cog ( to distribute the pressure) and clamp the whole lot up with a big G cramp. Once you've got the cramp as tight as you can, give it a good smack with a hammer, you may get a bit of movement, retighten the cramp and hit it again. You might like to use a copper hammer or a bit of wood between the cramp and the ball pein.
Best of luck if your SWAMBO springs you using her oven.
Regards,
Geoff.
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4th March 2012, 06:14 PM #20
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4th March 2012, 08:07 PM #21
And Gavin, can we have some photos of your new baby? I'll be posting more photos of mine in a day or two.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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4th March 2012, 08:53 PM #22
Vann
I know the rules, no photos - it never happened.
I picked it up this morning so I haven't had a chance to clean it up but at first glance everything seems to be present and intact and all the gear teeth look good with no obvious signs of wear. Everything is coated in a good layer of grease and oil so there's no rust to speak of.
I'm a bit of a tragic for the older machinery, the look and feel is much more rewarding that the modern far eastern stuff. As such, most of the old gear I have has had a quick clean-up and gets put into service straight away, my Hercus power hacksaw and Tough brand drill press, both mid 1950s vintage, get used full-time with few concessions to their age apart from plenty of oil & grease.
This one might be different, I don't need a post drill and have no day to day use for one, normal drilling gets done on the Tough, large work gets done on the mill - but what the hell, we only live once. So this one will probably get stripped down, cleaned and restored properly and get used from time to time "just because"......
Amazingly, my wife understands this disease and encourages it....
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4th March 2012, 09:52 PM #23
Gavin,
the 616 has a completely different feed actuator arrangement.
However, a similar mod might still work on the curved surface of the cam follower.
My mod is visible in my Dawn resto thread or this picture. The strip is on the underside of the cam follower end of the feed lever - I painted it black so as not to draw attention to it....
Cheers,
Joe
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5th March 2012, 08:10 AM #24
Hi Gavin. Like you I have a soft spot for old machinery - but unlike you I've not done anything about it until the acquisition of this drill press (unless you count the numerous planes, braces and eggbeater drills I've err.. gathered, in the last couple of years .) I'm primarily wanting to do woodwork, but a little metal work happens from time to time.
My current drill press is a 1960s Black & Decker electric drill in a stand (stop laughing ) and it's well overdue for replacement.
While I don't know that's it's going to be any good for woodwork, the post drill is an attempt to find a replacement (and it appeals to the neanderthal in me ).
But I'm envious. Your #616 is 2-speed.
Looking at your photos, it appears that the fast speed is the same as on the Dawn #611 - the spindle cog looks to have ~30 teeth (#611 = 30t), main crank cog ~45 or 46t (#611 = 46t), flywheel cog ~22t (#611 = 22t), giving a 1:1.53 crank to spindle speed ratio. But I see the #616 has a greater reach, heavier spindle and pillar, and longer travel.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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5th March 2012, 10:12 AM #25
Vann
I'm the reverse, I'm primarily an swarf maker with the occasional foray into the woodwork side of things. I'd love the 4 head drill at the bottom of page 2, how cool would that be.
Rgds - Gavin
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5th March 2012, 05:41 PM #26
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5th March 2012, 05:50 PM #27
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6th March 2012, 02:19 PM #28
While deciding how to tackle the seized flywheel shaft I’ve cleaned up most of the feedscrew and spindle assembly. I still have to clean up the spindle cog before I can begin reassembly.
There’s a little damage to the feedscrew nut sleeve where the retaining screw has gripped it. But it’s not causing a problem (and I don’t know how to repair it anyway).
I notice the advertising blurb calls this machine the ”Dawn” Ball-bearing Post Drill and states The main spindle…of the “DAWN” No. 611 featuring the “Improved Dawn Coupler and Ball Bearing Thrust”. Yet the coupler fitted to mine consists of two steel washers with a fibre washer between. It must be an earlier unimproved version.
The two half-washers that lock the spindle into the coupler are much thinner than the groove they locate in, and are dished. I’m wondering if I should get new, thicker, half-washers made up?
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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6th March 2012, 07:34 PM #29
Depending in what you plan to do with the drill, I suggest you get a ball thrust bearing from the local bearing shop and make new half washers - or just put it back together with some high moly content grease.
The ball thrust bearing makes it usable for drilling reasonably sized holes in steel - I wouldn't attempt that with a thrust washer. My guess is the bearing was worn out or lost....
Joe
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17th March 2012, 04:14 PM #30
Either that or someone has had it apart and replaced the bearing with the fibre washer, I've just pulled the spindle out of my 616 model (the 2 speed version) to bore the end out for a chuck arbor and it definitely has a radial ball bearing thrust washer.
The 2 half washers stop the spindle from falling out of the carrier, on mine they are almost the same thickness as the groove and are not dished, perhaps yours have been worn from taking the thrust in the absence of the ball-bearings. On mine, between the top of the spindle and the bottom of the feed screw there are, in order, a flat washer with about a 3/4" hole, a flat disc, the ball-bearing carrier, another flat disc and then another washer.
Rgds - Gavin
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