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Thread: Dawn Post Drill

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Unfortunately the flywheel shaft is stuck fast. 3 days ago I cleaned out the oil hole and poured in some kerosine. Still it hasn't begun to weep at either end of the shaft.



    So, next I'm considering heating the whole casting to try to free the shaft. Any ideas how hot (I can use SWMBOs oven as she's away in a school trip this week ).

    Try your local motor mechanic to see if you can use his press for a sixpack or two?

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  3. #32
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    Thanks for the advice and information guys.

    I have been intending to update this thread, but haven't made the progress I was hoping to - other chores keep getting in the way .

    I warmed the drill body in the oven - not hot enough to burn the paint - then ran cold tap water over the part of the shaft that was exposed, followed buy some heavy beating with a hammer (with a piece of brass in between ) and managed to drive the shaft out - without further damage.

    Thanks to a very generous donation from a member of this forum I now have a flywheel. After cleaning up the shaft a little I tried the flywheel on the shaft, and the shaft in the drill body. It turns freely (and without too much slop ).

    It is my intention to reassemble the post drill (if I ever get the time to clean up the gear teeth ) without modification, in order to get the 'feel' of it. Then I'll decide how much I want to spend on it. Possible improvements include: new half washers; new thrust bearing for the vertical shaft; maybe ball bearing races for the flywheel; and a Jacobs chuck. Also the shaft for the crank gear is a sloppy fit in the main casting and may need work. And of course there's the mod to the cam follower (as suggested by jhovel) to be considered.

    I'm at work as I write this but I'll try to get some more photos up (and maybe make some more progress) over the coming week.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #33
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    Okay, so here's the body/frame with the flywheel cog and shaft removed.
    Attachment 209369
    This leaves just the 'crank' shaft which is pinned in the body. There's a bit of slack allowing the shaft to rock slightly. I'll have to see what effect that has on the whole setup once the drill's reassembled.

    I've started cleaning up the cogs.
    Attachment 209370
    From left to right: crank cog - as found; flywheel cog - stripped and wheel brushed; and spindle cog - black etch primed. I don't intend to treat the whole drill this way (at this stage), but the teeth are gunged up with crap. As I clean out the teeth I'm disturbing casting sand - no machined teeth here .

    A fellow forum member, Boringgeoff, sent me a flywheel off an incomplete old Buffalo Forge post drill he has. I swapped it for some braces he wanted. Many thanks Geoff
    Attachment 209371

    It has an outside diameter of 305mm (12"). Jhovel tells me his Dawn 611 flywheel is 290mm - near enough I guess. It looks similar to a Dawn apart from the threaded boss for a handle. It fits the shaft and the shaft boss is the correct length.

    Here it is temporarily assembled.
    Attachment 209372

    Boringgeoff also sent me a photo of the thrust bearing in his Buffalo Forge.
    Attachment 209373
    Not a ball bearing race, but a single ball bearing seated in the top of the spindle.

    I've a couple of days off work ATM so maybe I can progress this project a little further (while SWMBO is at work ).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  5. #34
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
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    Hi Vann,

    That flywheel certainly looks better on your Dawn than in the back corner of my shed. The rest of the BF 611 I gave to a friend for spare parts for his collection.

    The braces Vann sent me are a Stanley USA 917, Stanley England 144 10in and one made for Wm Marples by J A Chapman of Sheffield (post 1898).

    A very satisfactory international transaction, where no money needed to change hands, further cementing the good relationship enjoyed between Australians and New Zealanders. ( except during the rugby!)

    Regards,
    Geoff.

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    A fellow forum member, Boringgeoff, sent me a flywheel off an incomplete old Buffalo Forge post drill he has. I swapped it for some braces he wanted.
    That statement would seem to imply that there were some braces that he doesn't want.
    I'm pretty sure that is wrong.


    Cheers,
    Paul.

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    That statement would seem to imply that there were some braces that he doesn't want.
    I'm pretty sure that is wrong.
    Sorry, I'm SURE there are no braces that Geoff doesn't want. My mistake

    Cheers, Vann
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  8. #37
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
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    Well in point of actual fact Mr Mannering...
    Hi Paul and Vann,
    There are a lot of braces that don't ring my bell that I have picked up along the way. Those made in Japan, some British makes. I've got a couple of Edourd Engels from Germany that I disinterestedly put to one side but my attitude changed when I found them advertised in a 1937 McPhersons catalogue.
    This attached copy of a page from an 1888 Wm Marples and sons catalogue taken from Reg Eatons book The Ultimate Brace, A Unique Product of Victorian Sheffield, sums it up for me. On the right you have a beautiful brass and ebony Ultimatum, which is very collectable, and are valued at many $100s. But it doesn't get me going. On the other hand all the rest of the tools shown do . There's a nice Spofford brace by Fray, a Millers Falls angle drive, both from USA and the braces could be by either of those two or even possibly locally made by J A Chapman.
    The Wm Marples steel brace I got from Vann has Chapmans registered design No 239718 (1897) on the chuck which means it was made for Marples by Chapman.
    What I find most interesting about this page is that Marples continued making these brass and ebony monstrosities while also offering imported, more utilitarian, tools.
    I recently saw the reaction of a friend of mine when he came across a Stanley No1 plane. Now what I know about planes you could write on the back of a postage stamp in capital letters (though thanks to this forum I'm learning fast) but I knew exactly how he felt, that he knew what he was looking at. It's the feeling I get when I see a brace or bitstock tool by Quimby S. Backus.
    Good day.
    Regards,
    Geoff.

  9. #38
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  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Okay, so here's the body/frame with the flywheel cog and shaft removed.
    Attachment 209369
    This leaves just the 'crank' shaft which is pinned in the body. There's a bit of slack allowing the shaft to rock slightly. I'll have to see what effect that has on the whole setup once the drill's reassembled.

    I've started cleaning up the cogs.
    Attachment 209370
    From left to right: crank cog - as found; flywheel cog - stripped and wheel brushed; and spindle cog - black etch primed. I don't intend to treat the whole drill this way (at this stage), but the teeth are gunged up with crap. As I clean out the teeth I'm disturbing casting sand - no machined teeth here .

    A fellow forum member, Boringgeoff, sent me a flywheel off an incomplete old Buffalo Forge post drill he has. I swapped it for some braces he wanted. Many thanks Geoff
    Attachment 209371

    It has an outside diameter of 305mm (12"). Jhovel tells me his Dawn 611 flywheel is 290mm - near enough I guess. It looks similar to a Dawn apart from the threaded boss for a handle. It fits the shaft and the shaft boss is the correct length.

    Here it is temporarily assembled.
    Attachment 209372

    Boringgeoff also sent me a photo of the thrust bearing in his Buffalo Forge.
    Attachment 209373
    Not a ball bearing race, but a single ball bearing seated in the top of the spindle.

    I've a couple of days off work ATM so maybe I can progress this project a little further (while SWMBO is at work ).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Hi Vann

    I know this is resurrecting an old thread, but I am just in the process of restoring a 611 from one mainly compete example and some spare parts collected along the way!

    The pictures in the quoted post would help me a great deal, but they appear to have been lost in the great photo crash of 2016/7. I was wondering if you could repost these photos (or send them to me by email and I'll restore them to the post)?

    Many thanks
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmk89 View Post
    ...The pictures in the quoted post would help me a great deal, but they appear to have been lost in the great photo crash of 2016/7. I was wondering if you could repost these photos (or send them to me by email and I'll restore them to the post)?...
    I'd love to help, but I'm not sure if I can find the missing photos (and I'm not sure that if I did, they'd be the exact ones that are lost). I'll have a look see what I can find (but it won't happen any time soon - so feel free to remind me in a week or two).

    Oh, and if I do find them, and you do re-insert them, what's the chance of also merging this thread and Part II Dawn Post Drill - part II ?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  12. #41
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    Sure, happy to help.
    Btw what were the specs of the new thrust bearing you got?
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  13. #42
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    Default Resurrection achieved

    I recently had a couple of spare days and so I cleaned, painted and reassembled (using parts collected from several machines) my Dawn 611 post drill. Here is a bit of a photo essay showing how it all goes together, in case anyone ever wants to have a go for themselves. The order is generally okay until you get to step 4. I would typically insert the thrust bearing after that step, but my replacement thrust bearing (I have ordered a 51102 which is 28 mm OD and should fit) has not arrived. I will put each step in a separate post with the relevant pictures attached.


    Step 1 - a 4 x 2 hardwood beam is bolted to the wall, the red main casting is screwed to the beam using galvanised 8mm x 50 mm hex head coach screws, the top of the main post is inserted in the main casting and held with a 3/8" bolt while the drill table holder and table is fitted on the bottom of the main post and tightened in place leaving about 2" of the post at the bottom and then the bottom bracket is fitted on the end of the post and screwed to the beam.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jmk89; 29th January 2018 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Re-orienting pictures
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  14. #43
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    Default Resurrection achieved - 2

    Step 2 - the threaded advance mechanism rod is screwed most of the way into the top handle bearing and inserted into the top bearing of the main casting pushing the handle bearing as far as it will go; the handle is then put on the handle bearing and the holding screw tightened - this holds the whole assembly up and out of the way when the quill is fed in.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jmk89; 29th January 2018 at 05:14 PM. Reason: re-orient pictures
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  15. #44
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    Default Resurrection achieved - 3

    Step 3 - now we start feeding the quill into the beast. First insert the key in the bevel gear and then put it on the top of the bottom bearing of the main casting with the key at the front. With the keyway of the quill facing forward, gently feed the quill from bottom of the bottom bearing until it appears at the top of the bottom bearing. Holding the key into the keyway of the bevel bear with a finger inserted from the top of the gear, gently begin to push the quill up into the bevel gear (you have to align the key and the quill key way to get the first 1/4" in then it just slides gently upwards. Keep pushing the quill up through the middle bearing of the main casting until the top of the quill appears.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jmk89; 29th January 2018 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Reorient photos
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  16. #45
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    Default Resurrection achieved - 4

    Step 4 - Place the red coupling piece on the spine of the main casting between the top and middle bearings with the lugs that engage the spine at the bottom and insert the quill until it appears at the top pf the coupling piece. Then inset the two half washers in the groove at the top of the quill and let the quill drop back into the coupling piece so that the washers are trapper by the coupling piece and stop the quill dropping through the bottom hole of the coupling piece.


    I'll do the rest of this once the thrust bearing turns up, so I can keep the proper order of the steps and not confuse the issue with the other steps! Hopefully, Aust Post permitting the bearing will turn up tomorrow.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jmk89; 29th January 2018 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Reorient pictures
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

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