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Thread: DawnPost Drill - Dating Versions
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12th July 2013, 11:09 PM #61Senior Member
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13th July 2013, 11:06 PM #62Senior Member
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14th July 2013, 10:34 AM #63
One way to determine it possibly is to find out when enclosed bering cases first appeared if it is post 1950 it is definitely a user mod.
Can you tell me if the washer with the dimple in the middle, matches it's marked circle to the end diameter of anything? or is this possibly sign of where the ball bearings ran?
Also I note your coupler the flange on the rear that guides it and stops rotation is very short mine with the A on it runs the full length of the coupler.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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14th July 2013, 06:50 PM #64Senior Member
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I am unsure about which of the plates was uppermost when I first dismantled the assembly. They were very greasy, and fell on the floor when I separated the collar from the connector. I am sure that the convex side was positioned upwards, so I guess that the marked circle could have been caused by the end of the feed screw, which is quite flat, but has a corresponding pimple at the centre. I'm guessing, but think that pimple to dimple seems logical.
As far as the bearing case is concerned, it is a fairly crude device. It has been pressed to shape, rather than machined, and has no part number. The guy at the bearing shop thought it unlikely that it was an 'off-the-shelf' bearing, but more likely to have been fabricated for a specific application.
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15th July 2013, 02:12 PM #65
Interesting Mike. I would guess (and I emphasis "Guess") that that's a user mod. I can't see how the half washers are retained. It looks as though, if you grabbed the chuck and pulled down hard, the spindle would pull through the bottom of the coupler - leaving the half washers and bearing in the coupler
Spindle1.jpgSpindle2.jpg
Thrust%20parts.jpg
Mine is tapered like Mike's (Mike's shown), but mine has the thickened wall where the tapped hole for the set screw goes.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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15th July 2013, 02:20 PM #66…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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15th July 2013, 02:31 PM #67
I am thinking we should draw up a table with the parts and compare who's has which parts and then see if we can find a structure for the order of changes.
So who have we got so far?
Dsel74, I have 3x 611
Vann
Mspil
2blast67 - Beltdrive
boringgeoff ??
I can't believe that is all the contributors off the forum or the 71 people following this thread. Surely some of you have a Dawn Post drill???…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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15th July 2013, 02:49 PM #68
Yup, you did (all good).
Attachment 277013
Okay, just for the purpose of discussion, here's my thoughts:
1 Drive Cog - Crank Cog vrs Drive Cog - Drive Cog is good;
4 Feed Cam Follower - elsewhere called Feed Arm, but I prefer Auto-Feed Arm;
6 Adjuster Bolt - gotta find a more descriptive name - how about Auto-Feed Adjuster Bolt;
7 Ratchet Feed Wheel - how about just Feed Wheel, as it also functions without ratchet;
8 Ratchet - how about Pawl (doesn't it take two to ratchet?);
10 Fly-Wheel Cog - others call it Idle/Idler Cog, but I prefer Fly-Wheel Cog;
11 Main Body Mounting Lugs - just Mounting Lugs;
14 Table Support - Yoke?
19 Chuck Drill Locking Bolt - Chuck Locking Bolt or Bit Locking Bolt?
24 Feed Screw Coupler - maybe Feed Screw & Spindle Coupler or just Coupler?
23 Fly-Wheel Axle or Fly-Wheel Shaft - I think I prefer the latter.
Also missing are:
Feed Arm Stub Axle or Shaft;
Drive Cog Retaining Washer;
Drive Cog Retaining Split-Pin;
Drive Cog Retaining Screw (for flat-head screw models);
Feed Wheel Locking Bolt or Screw;
Fly-Wheel Locking Bolt/Screw;
Fly-Wheel Cog Locking Bolt/Screw;
Yoke Locking Bolt/Screw;
Table Wingnut;
Foot or Pillar Foot (missing on mine).
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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15th July 2013, 03:06 PM #69
Dsel74, I have 3x 611
Vann
Mspil
2blast67 - Beltdrive
boringgeoff ???? (I think geoff's is Buffalo Forge or Champion Blower & Forge)
blooh (only ever posted once, so probably no longer on WWF);
jhovel
Would it be breaking forum rules to PM each of the above?
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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15th July 2013, 06:40 PM #70
1 Drive Cog - Crank Cog vrs Drive Cog - Drive Cog is good;
4 Feed Cam Follower - elsewhere called Feed Arm, but I prefer Auto-Feed Arm;
- Feed cam follower was taken from another listing.
6 Adjuster Bolt - gotta find a more descriptive name - how about Auto-Feed Adjuster Bolt;
7 Ratchet Feed Wheel - how about just Feed Wheel, as it also functions without ratchet;
8 Ratchet - how about Pawl
- A hinged or pivoted device adapted to fit into a notch of a ratchet wheel to impart forward motion or prevent backward motion.
- A pivoted curved bar or lever whose free end engages with the teeth of a cogwheel or ratchet so that the wheel or ratchet can only turn or move one way.
- A common component of a ratchet
10 Fly-Wheel Cog - others call it Idle/Idler Cog, but I prefer Fly-Wheel Cog;
11 Main Body Mounting Lugs - just Mounting Lugs;
14 Table Support - Yoke?
- Can't find a relevant deffinition of yoke other than harnessing two oxen etc together.
19 Chuck Drill Locking Bolt - Chuck Locking Bolt or Bit Locking Bolt?
- It's not locking the chuck so will try to keep it clear
24 Feed Screw Coupler - maybe Feed Screw & Spindle Coupler or just Coupler?
23 Fly-Wheel Axle or Fly-Wheel Shaft - I think I prefer the latter.
Also missing are:
Feed Arm Stub Axle or Shaft;
Drive Cog Retaining Washer; <----Can't see it may need to be in a sub assembly photo
Drive Cog Retaining Split-Pin; <----Item 2
Drive Cog Retaining Screw (for flat-head screw models); <----To Be Shown in a variation diagram
Feed Wheel Locking Bolt or Screw;
Fly-Wheel Locking Bolt/Screw;
Fly-Wheel Cog Locking Bolt/Screw;
Table Support Locking Bolt/Screw;
Table Wingnut & Bolt;
Foot or Pillar Foot (missing on mine).<----Not in photo to label
FLY-WHEEL <----Not in photo to label…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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15th July 2013, 07:31 PM #71
Guys can you please PM me your email address so I can send you the excel spread sheet with the table of info so we can track the differences.
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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15th July 2013, 07:39 PM #72
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15th July 2013, 10:38 PM #73Senior Member
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I find myself asking "Why would you want to pull down hard on the chuck"? Further, as my drill seems to be the only one with this peculiar set-up, and I promise on my solemn word of honour that I will never exert downward forces on the chuck, it should not be a problem. However, the natural forces when in use will push the top of the spindle against the half-washers, and those against the bottom of the bearing, thus keeping the whole shebang in good order. (At least, I hope so).
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15th July 2013, 10:45 PM #74Senior Member
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I had a quick look at the spreadsheet. I reckon it will take me about a month to fill it in. Particularly as my head is spinning with the discussion on the various opinions as to nomenclature. Us old blokes with galloping Alzheimers have to take things slowly. Might be easier to sell the drill! Nevertheless, PM re email is on the way.
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16th July 2013, 07:46 PM #75
Ok I have a bone to pick with you guys. There is a major component that no on has mentioned yet… I went to assemble my drill today and did some of the measurements and found it still won't work.
The part I'm talking about is the "Internally threaded feed drive sleeve". The feed wheel clamps on to this sleeve and that in turn drives the feedscrew up and down. How did you guys miss this???? I'll tell you how I missed it because on mine it like everything else was seized and there is a little node on the side which i thought was a pin holding it. So today while assembling it I realised the is must be mean't to move and checked one on the newer ones and there quite loose. Tried some G15 and a big hammer and all I achieved was flaring the top making life worse
Not really annoyed at you guys I'm at this drill for still giving me grief!!!
Also had a small win and got the bolt out of the crank cog. How ever the bolt won't got back in to the threaded hole in the main casting . Tried to use some blue and file the threads but can't get it to take. I don't have any TAPS & DIES that ib to clean the threads up.
Something that this pointed out to me is that all the threads should be imperial as the drills were made from 1920-50 and the metric system came in around 1968.
Ok now I'm off my rant, here are some photos.
Crank Cog Bolt and small Washer...
Dawn Drill Bolt1.jpgDawn Drill Bolt2.jpgDawn Drill Bolt5.jpgDawn Drill Bolt3.jpgDawn Drill Bolt4.jpg
I think there is three bolt sizes
Dawn Drill Bolt6.jpg
Also wondering why the shaft is sooooo long and has that gap? The newer ones don't seem to have this.
Dawn Drill Bolt7.jpgDawn Drill Bolt8.jpgDawn Drill Bolt9.jpg…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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