Disston Rip Saw Restoration

**chrrris** · 21st May 2014, 12:21 AM

Hi all,
I seem to have chased another rabbit down a hole.

I was ripping some nicely figured firewood (don't ask) into boards with a modern "universal" hard point saw when I decided I needed a rip saw. I do have a Japanese ryoba saw, but decided after one board that they are not meant for gnarly red gum 100mm thick (though it did give a nice finish, I couldn't keep it on line and it was very slow going).

I have and old Disston rip saw, bought for about one dollar at a closing down sale at a local joinery. So, in a moment of madness, I thought "why not restore the rip saw I have?"

It's in a shocking state. The pictures below show the state after some work (I din't think to take photos before starting). The photo's are also in a shocking state - they were taken with my crap phone.

The blade was red with rust, and after some work I can see some steel. There is some pitting, mostly smaller than 1mm. It needs a serious jointing, the rake on the teeth is about 30 degrees - I wouldn't be surprised if some of the teeth were formed with the corner of a rectangular file!

The handle is much abused also. It has all the nuts, but has several breaks that have been repaired by attaching a strip of metal along the bottom (saw_handle_1.jpg), and by a screw in the top (saw_handle_3.jpg). Without these repairs the handle would be in several pieces (and nearly came apart removing it from the blade).

So, my questions are:

1) Is it worth it, or is it too far gone?
2) Will the pitting on the blade affect cutting performance
3) Is the handle repairable? (I've never made a handle before).
4) How do I remove the verdigris and other grime from the handle, if it is to be repaired? If, say, I use turps, will it affect gluing up afterward?
5) The highest teeth are under the handle, once jointed they will almost disappear - should I reform them or ignore them as they're never used (by me, anyway)?

The blade is just over 26 inches, and I have included a very fuzzy picture of the medallion for those interested in the model of saw.

Thanks in advance,
Chris.

**AJOE123** · 21st May 2014, 01:25 PM

Disston D8 about 100 yrs old
Worth saving if the plate is straight and unkinked.
They are a relatively common and cheap saw at the market place (my last one cost one dollar) so dont waste your efforts on a dud plate.
If the plate is ok then some say scrape with a blade then use ascending grits of sand paper from 280up to 400; always along the direction of the tooth line.
The etch area needs to be sanded cautiously with 400 grit and then avoided if an etch appears.
Repair the handle and glue on the horn repair then wash the handle with Oxalic acid (deck cleaner) .
This cleans up stains and brings out the colour of the apple;it also cleans the brassware .
You are on the way down!
Cheers
Tony

**chrrris** · 21st May 2014, 02:17 PM

Originally Posted by AJOE123

Disston D8 about 100 yrs old
Worth saving if the plate is straight and unkinked.
They are a relatively common and cheap saw at the market place (my last one cost one dollar) so dont waste your efforts on a dud plate.
If the plate is ok then some say scrape with a blade then use ascending grits of sand paper from 280up to 400; always along the direction of the tooth line.
The etch area needs to be sanded cautiously with 400 grit and then avoided if an etch appears.
Repair the handle and glue on the horn repair then wash the handle with Oxalic acid (deck cleaner) .
This cleans up stains and brings out the colour of the apple;it also cleans the brassware .
You are on the way down!
Cheers
Tony

Thanks Tony,
much appreciated. I did go to the Disstonian Institute website to see if I could identify it. I got as far as working out the medallion was made between 1896 and 1917.

There is a very slight kink at the top on the toe end, nothing really, and it's otherwise good.

I did start with a blade, and then a scourer with Lanox as a lubricant, which is why there is some metal showing through the rust. I've not seen any sight of an etch, perhaps a hint but it's hard to be sure.

The Oxalic acid is a good suggestion - I have some left over from doing an outside wood bench.

I did wonder whether I should attempt a horn repair - I've no source of apple that I know of and haven't seen another wood with such a fine grain that would match.

Further and further down I go!

Kind regards,
Chris.

**AJOE123** · 21st May 2014, 02:40 PM

Any fruitwood or even Blackwood would make a nice repair.
It is worth doing for the practice and for the resultant satisfactionalso.
Plate sounds reasonable.
Bob Smalser is the man for plate restoration info.
Cheers
Tony

**hiroller** · 21st May 2014, 09:41 PM

This current thread is one of a few in the unpowered hand tools sub forum that covers the pros and cons of various restoration methods.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/saws-hmm-60-yo-maybe-181369
Worth a read.

**AJOE123** · 25th May 2014, 06:54 PM

Try this web site for some useful saw info
www.takeadiptools.com/page5.php
Good luck
T

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