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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
    Posts
    87

    Default Jeffwood 27" bandsaw restoration

    I have decided to get the band saw up and going first.
    I have stripped the table, removed the top wheel and top and bottom guides. The paint on the inside is in good condition and I will be leaving this as is. Just needs a good wash. All the bearings will be replaced.
    The table is tiltable.
    Attachment 272842Attachment 272843
    The tilting block has been cleaned up and painted. The table had surface rust on top face. (sorry no before photo)I cleaned the top with hydrochloric acid then washed with water then treated with phosphoric acid based rust converter, washed with water then washed with metho. (as per instructions on bottle. yes sometimes I read instructions.}This is the same process some panel guys use to treat car panels.
    009.jpg003.jpg
    First photo is the top and bottom guides.These are a bearing setup. The top adjuster bar has been treated in molassas. The other photo is some parts off the spindle moulder that have been treated in molasses.
    002.jpg001.jpg004.jpg006.jpg

    First photo is the top wheel assembly, all cast and fully adjustable. the paint is really good on this and needs only washing. Both wheels will need to be re-vulcanised. I used to work with polyurethene as a mould maker and may take it to my old work and cast it with urethene then machine it to size. I have sanded most of the body of the bandsaw and is nearly ready to paint.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Horsham Victoria
    Posts
    5,713

    Default

    im not showing any photos here

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveTTC View Post
    im not showing any photos here
    Hi Dave
    Not sure whats going on there. I`ve logged off then on again and opened post. I have been able to open photo`s.

    Regards
    Ross

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Horsham Victoria
    Posts
    5,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2blast67 View Post
    Hi Dave
    Not sure whats going on there. I`ve logged off then on again and opened post. I have been able to open photo`s.

    Regards
    Ross
    Cool they've just come thru now, not sure if it was my app or what, only looked at it again 60 seconds before your post and now - it's fine.

    Time to check out the pics.

    1st two pics are showing connection error, rest are fine. Nice old saw.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    775

    Default

    Looks like you are really getting stuck into it. I have tried looking to see what your model saw looks like complete, but can't find anything online, did you have any before photos? The rate you are going yours will be complete before I even get a chance to pick my L.S. Barker 27".

    Is the Jeffwood direct drive, and does it have a brake? The barker is direct drive, but unless I missed something no brake.

    Cheers,

    Camo

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by camoz View Post
    Looks like you are really getting stuck into it. I have tried looking to see what your model saw looks like complete, but can't find anything online, did you have any before photos? The rate you are going yours will be complete before I even get a chance to pick my L.S. Barker 27".

    Is the Jeffwood direct drive, and does it have a brake? The barker is direct drive, but unless I missed something no brake.

    Cheers,

    Camo
    Hi. I`ll have to have a look to see what I can find for a before shot.
    It is belt driven and does`nt appear to have a brake.
    Before shot
    097.jpg098.jpg

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    775

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2blast67 View Post
    Hi. I`ll have to have a look to see what I can find for a before shot.
    It is belt driven and does`nt appear to have a brake.
    Before shot
    097.jpg098.jpg
    Thanks for that. Hey Matty, if you see this, would you have any pictures, stats etc. on this one?

    Cheers,

    Camo

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
    Posts
    87

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoz View Post
    Thanks for that. Hey Matty, if you see this, would you have any pictures, stats etc. on this one?

    Cheers,

    Camo
    Hi Camo

    Here is a sales Brochure.

    001.jpg

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
    Posts
    825

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    Ross, I am amazed that such a relatively small Queensland operation such as Jeffress Brothers foundry made such a variety of machinery.
    I have had the 703 for some time now and it is a great little machine, your bandsaw and tenoning machine I had never even heard of until you have put them up.

    Your bandsaw is going ahead in leaps and bounds Ross, looking forward to seeing it come together and make some dust !
    Any idea on someone to re-vulcanize the rubber back onto those wheels, true them up and balance ?
    Here in Melbourne, we had Welco, in Montague St, South Melbourne for the Vulcanizing process, then Peter Wolfenden at Airport west would then grind the rubber back to a crown and balance your wheels.
    I don't know who does this kind of work these days ...

    Melbourne Matty.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
    Posts
    87

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    Quote Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970 View Post
    Ross, I am amazed that such a relatively small Queensland operation such as Jeffress Brothers foundry made such a variety of machinery.
    I have had the 703 for some time now and it is a great little machine, your bandsaw and tenoning machine I had never even heard of until you have put them up.

    Your bandsaw is going ahead in leaps and bounds Ross, looking forward to seeing it come together and make some dust !
    Any idea on someone to re-vulcanize the rubber back onto those wheels, true them up and balance ?
    Here in Melbourne, we had Welco, in Montague St, South Melbourne for the Vulcanizing process, then Peter Wolfenden at Airport west would then grind the rubber back to a crown and balance your wheels.
    I don't know who does this kind of work these days ...

    Melbourne Matty.
    Hi Matty.
    I haven`t had a look around yet. however will probably bond polyurethene onto wheel and machine back myself. I used to work as a mould maker with polyurethene. the bonding material is very good. We used to do sheer tests and the polyurethene would sheer first 100percent of the time provided the bonded surface wasn`t contaminated.
    Do yo know an approx crown radius that would be used on a 27" wheel?
    Regards Ross

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    775

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2blast67 View Post
    Hi Matty.
    I haven`t had a look around yet. however will probably bond polyurethene onto wheel and machine back myself. I used to work as a mould maker with polyurethene. the bonding material is very good. We used to do sheer tests and the polyurethene would sheer first 100percent of the time provided the bonded surface wasn`t contaminated.
    Do yo know an approx crown radius that would be used on a 27" wheel?
    Regards Ross
    Ross,

    I am really loving this thread, I can't believe you had the brochure (what a bonus, at least you can be sure of the weight). I must say this post has me all a bit fidgety waiting till I can pick up the Barker 27", however I wish I had your skills in relation to the wheels, this is the biggest concern I have (replacing bearings is one thing, reapplying new rubber or polyurethane to these old bandsaws sounds like a job for professionals), I had a look at the Barker's wheels, but the machine is in a corner up against some shelving, so it is a bit hard to tell what I will be in for.

    Keep the pictures coming, it helps with the shakes from cast iron withdrawals.

    Cheers,

    Camo

    Keep the pictures comming, it helps with the shakes from cast iron withdrawel

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
    Posts
    825

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoz View Post
    Hey Matty, if you see this, would you have any pictures, stats etc. on this one?

    Cheers,

    Camo
    I'm too slow Camo

    Melbourne Matty.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
    Posts
    825

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2blast67 View Post
    Hi Matty.

    Do yo know an approx crown radius that would be used on a 27" wheel?
    Regards Ross
    Ross, what is the width of your wheel ?

    A 50mm wide wheel has around a 2 to 3 mm peak.

    Melbourne Matty.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970 View Post
    Ross, what is the width of your wheel ?

    A 50mm wide wheel has around a 2 to 3 mm peak.

    Melbourne Matty.
    Thanks for that. My wheel measures 45mm, so I will aim for around 2mm peak. The wheel surface is flat unlike wheels of today have a recess groove for a rubber or polyurethene band you can stretch around.That would be good.
    010.jpg

  16. #15
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
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    Bandsaw is now ready for painting. finished sanding today and masked it up. Just have to wait for a warm day.

    002.jpg003.jpg004.jpg

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