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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Redbank Plains QLD
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    87

    Default jeffwood table saw.

    To wet and cold to do any painting so I have started pulling table saw down. This is not tiltable.

    020.jpg022.jpg023.jpg024.jpg

    Looks like it should have a disc sanding attachment which would mount to the main shaft. I`m only guessing about this. hopefully someone can shed some light on this.
    021.jpg

    Also missing is I think a guard or spreader blade when the normal blade is mounted or something that mounts to the four bolts.
    026.jpg025.jpg

    regards Ross

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
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    825

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    Ross, some one did a magnificent job on restoring one of these table saws and had it for sale a while back.
    I hope they don't mind me putting up some Pic's, but it was a beautiful job and a lot of attention to detail, luck person that purchased it, there would be years of reliability, every thing was done, oh BTW the table to the side can also be used as a horizontal borer or doweling.












    Melbourne Matty.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
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    87

    Default

    Thanks Matty.
    That helps heaps.
    The spreader blade is what I thought.
    Not sure what you mean about the side bit.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
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    87

    Default

    Table saw now all stripped down. Finish sanding and wait for some warm weather to paint.

    001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg004.jpg005.jpg

    006.jpg007.jpg008.jpg009.jpg010.jpg

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
    Posts
    825

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2blast67 View Post
    Not sure what you mean about the side bit.
    Ross, here are some pics with a similar set up from an C&H Alta combination machine with a horizontal boring attachment..




    Melbourne Matty.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970 View Post
    Ross, here are some pics with a similar set up from an C&H Alta combination machine with a horizontal boring attachment..




    Melbourne Matty.

    Thanks Matty

    Thats what I had in mind. I had my doubts to this idea because I couldn`t see how you could control depth and squareness accurately and safely. But with the cutout on the bed made me think something must pass through it.

    Ross

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Got the body of the table saw primed today.

    001.jpg002.jpg

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Got a coat on table saw today. will sand and do final coats next week001.jpg003.jpg

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Redbank Plains QLD
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Starting to put everything back on.
    This is the shaft for raising and lowering the saw blade.

    Attachment 276082Attachment 276083Attachment 276084Attachment 276085

    Motor mount plate fits to the cast frame in the above photo (with the four bolts) When the motor is fitted it acts like a counter weight for raising and lowering the blade.
    Attachment 276086004.jpg
    Front view
    Attachment 276087

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld
    Posts
    7

    Default

    I know this is an old thread but I just picked up a Jeffwood 121 table saw on Monday.

    I am in the process of doing a restoration on it, not a full resto and paint, but restore it to a nice functioning table saw.

    I have stripped it down, given everything a good clean and am servicing everything and putting it back together.

    I can find hardly anything on these saws, even half the pictures in this thread don't work.

    Can anyone shed any light on the spindle bearings ?
    Are they easy enough to get replacements & easy enough to change ?

    There is a cap on the non saw blade end of the spindle with 2 holes on the outer edge (can be seen in the pictures of the white one above) and its stamped LH so guessing its a left hand thread. Was planning to make a tool with 2 pins to drop into the holes and see if it wanted to open up for me. The bearings still feel okay but sound rather dry and at a minimum I would like to give them a good clean and re-grease them with the correct grease. If they can be bought cheap enough and easy enough I will probably just replace them as I dare say they are 65ish years old so could do with a freshen up.

    Any help greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld
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    Default

    Since no one else has I'll answer my own question in case anyone else up here looking for the answer also.

    The spindle bearings are 6206 bearings, there are 2, one front, one back.

    To strip the spindle down you remove the pulley off the front, its threaded on, right hand thread so lefty loose. There are then 2 bearing retainer caps, the one on the blade end of the spindle is right hand thread, the one on the back is left hand thread. One you have the pulley and those 2 bearing caps off its a nice easy press apart job.

    My spindle has some busted threads and the pulley is not in great shape so I'll be replacing those so assembly may be a couple of weeks away, I'll post some pictures when its done.

    Cheers
    Wayne

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld
    Posts
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    So realized the other day that I forgot to come back and post the update. Ended up making a new spindle.

    Changed from the 3/4" blade bore to 1" to match the newer blades. Went from twin V belts to a 8pk automotive style belt. Changed the back of the spindle to put accept a bolt to make tightening the blade easier and to give clearance as in the future I want to have a router table on the side where there was meant to be a horizontal borer or sander table.

    New spindle next to old one showing the layout





    "Special" Tools that I used to put the whole lot back together, ER40 collet nut spanner drilled and 2 x allen keys for a makeshift pin spanner, 2 x dummy bearings / press plates, ID oversize and OD undersize to give clearance, belt to tighten the pulley.


    Order or assembly ( or at least how I did it)
    Press front bearing onto shaft


    Press shaft from the front back into the housing


    It's a little hard to see in this pic but the bearing space on the shaft goes deeper then on the housing, this means that the bearing will bottom out on the outer race before the inner race. Putting the bearing in is a press fit on both the housing and shaft, this means the bearing needs to be supported on both races, hence the tools shown above.


    And the bearing in place


    Back retainer cap back in place, mine had a slight cone shape, if you put them on the bench you should be able to pick it quite easy. You want it pushing against the outer bearing not the inner bearing.


    Front retainer cap in place and pulley ready to go on, note the boss on the back of the pulley, this locks the inner race of the front bearing to the spindle shaft.


    And that hex drive on the end comes in handy here, the belt is used to grip the pulley, by pinching the belt over itself it tensions on the pulley and won't slip.


    Finally the spindle assembly ready to go back in the saw





    Hopefully this helps someone else that may have one of these saws.

    Cheers
    Wayne

  14. #13
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    74
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    3,372

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    An excellent thread on your restoration work and very good modifications too.
    I wish I had a decent table saw to play with.
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Townsville. Tropical Nth Qld.
    Posts
    1,243

    Default

    Wayne, things must be boring around this time of year for you as your posts are a year apart, LOL. Thanks for doing this as I may follow you and make a new shaft for mine. When I got my machine the face the blade pulls up against was a convex shape due to wear from previous owner and as I was in a hurry I just mounted the whole assembly between centres and refaced it to get me away. They only problem that I have had is trying to align the blade parallel to the mitre bar slot. When I pull it apart next, I will mount a couple of side adjusting screws, to make it easier. The only other mod I have done is replace the fence with one from a late model Hafco table saw. Good old machine. Thanks for the detailed story and photos.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    moonbi nsw Aus
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,065

    Default

    You just can't beat these solid old machines! They may be very basic but it means that they can be easily tidied up and they are away again for maybe another 50 years or so. I have a Jeffwood 12" Thicknesser of probably the same era. It came from south of Brissy. Sight unseen till it arrived. I just had to attach the 3 Ph plug and away it went. The only thing that happened after a couple of years was it started to trip the Earth Leakage breaker. Put new bearings in and.....it kept dropping the breaker. The problem ended up being the insulation cracking and exposing the wires that took power into the motor coils. I just opened up the motor and fished out the wires and slid plastic "spaghetti" over them reconnected the whole lot and it it runs again! The sugery was not easy with my big fat hands but perseverance paid off.

    I also have a LS Barker/Macson Jointer 12" of similar age as well as an MBT Radial Arm Saw and a Sawmaster Radial Arm all of 50s vintage. As well as these old dears I have a SCM Panel Saw 1983 model with a 5.5 Hp 3 Ph motor that can take a 450mm blade and it tilts to 45°.
    I had to replace the bearings in the main blade, make a riving knife and added a overhead guard with dust extraction.
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

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