Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Canberra - West Belco
    Age
    63
    Posts
    646

    Default John Rabone & Sons - No102 Spirit level

    I have no idea how old this example is but it's certainly older than i am so at least antique to me

    I was passed this in a box of tools at least 30 years ago and it's hibernated inside a toolbox since then. I pulled it out a couple days ago as part of the ongoing cleanup as an aged in clean dirt object as i was given it not knowing what I had, none of the stamps were visible.

    Not expecting a lot (please don't cry to much) I took to it with some 240 sand paper till i got clear visible stamps and stopped to do some research.

    P1170049.jpgP1170045.jpg

    P1170047.jpgP1170048.jpg

    Adjustment screws for both Horizontal and vertical tubes

    Based on the info here John Rabone and Sons - Graces Guide
    This trading name seems to have been active between 1877 and 1938

    What i don't know and never will is if the level and other tools came out to Australia with the gentleman concerned or was purchased afterwards, i suspect they came out with him.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sebastopol, California, USA
    Posts
    172

    Default

    Nice. I see the occasional Rabone measuring device here in the U.S. I like their adjusting screw arrangement - nothing to disassemble when making the adjustment, and it looks like it's still usable.

    Stanley made a cast iron level series on which you adjust the vials for level by backing off screws that capture each end of the steel vial sleeve and then working paper under the low end of the sleeve where it rests on the casting. And the screws are tiny little slotted things, guaranteed to strip when you try to turn them. I've been grateful that the examples I have are, in fact, level and plumb, because I sure don't want to try adjusting them.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Canberra - West Belco
    Age
    63
    Posts
    646

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    Nice. I see the occasional Rabone measuring device here in the U.S. I like their adjusting screw arrangement - nothing to disassemble when making the adjustment, and it looks like it's still usable.

    Stanley made a cast iron level series on which you adjust the vials for level by backing off screws that capture each end of the steel vial sleeve and then working paper under the low end of the sleeve where it rests on the casting. And the screws are tiny little slotted things, guaranteed to strip when you try to turn them. I've been grateful that the examples I have are, in fact, level and plumb, because I sure don't want to try adjusting them.
    I'm fairly confident this will become a winter based, inside in the office, strip and rebuild exercise after looking closer last night. The wood is sound and straight, all the brass fittings look good. The screws may be stuck but don't appear to be rusted and the whole thing likely has been protected by the layer of grime. I'm wondering if a beeswax layer should be added now to re-protect.

    The bubbles in the vials move as expected but i haven't checked it directly but i do know the TS is slightly not level with the earth by about a 1/2 degree and it looked about right sitting on the table

    Cheers
    Phil

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sebastopol, California, USA
    Posts
    172

    Default

    You may already know how to test a level, but, if not:

    To test for level: Find a suitably smooth, flat, kind of level surface that's longer than the level. Table saw, dining room table, etc. Set the level on it, vials up. Using painter's tape*, tape a piece of typing/printer paper under each end, leaving generous borders around. Hold the level still and mark around each end and a bit down each side of the level. At the low end of the level (based on how it reads), extend the lines out to the side and out the end, fairly far. Now, using card stock (or even playing cards), shim under the low end until the bubble shows level, using the line extensions to keep the level in the same position. Mark around the end/along the sides again, on the top layer of your stack (
    if you used playing cards, slip a bit of printer paper on top of the stack of cards). Now, reverse the level end for end and see if it shows level. If not, it's out by half the discrepancy. Adjust your level, then fiddle with the card stack, repeating this test until you get a level bubble both ways.

    Testing for plumb is simpler. Find a stretch of smooth wall that you can draw a line on (best not done in the dining room unless you're a bachelor who never brings dates home). We'll assume you're doing this in the shed. If you're proud of your shed wall, tape up a big enough piece of butcher paper, cardboard, etc. Hold the level until the bubble's plumb and hold it firmly. Now run a pencil line down the face of the level that will be used in testing (on a wooden level, like yours, this will usually be the face opposite the level vial; on many metal levels, it can be either, but pick one). Turn the level around so that same face is on the other side of the line, and see if it mates to the line. If not, you're out by half the discrepancy. Adjust the vial and repeat until you can get a line that shows as plumb regardless of whether the level's on the right or the left side of the line.

    I've never been sure how to test 45s, if you've got a level with one of those; but I'm sure there's a test like these.
    ------------
    *Do y'all use that term down in Oz? Painter's tape is a masking tape with a less sticky adhesive. It removes more easily than traditional masking tape and doesn't leave a residue.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Canberra - West Belco
    Age
    63
    Posts
    646

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    You may already know how to test a level, but, if not:

    To test for level: Find a suitably smooth, flat, kind of level surface that's longer than the level. Table saw, dining room table, etc. Set the level on it, vials up. Using painter's tape*, tape a piece of typing/printer paper under each end, leaving generous borders around. Hold the level still and mark around each end and a bit down each side of the level. At the low end of the level (based on how it reads), extend the lines out to the side and out the end, fairly far. Now, using card stock (or even playing cards), shim under the low end until the bubble shows level, using the line extensions to keep the level in the same position. Mark around the end/along the sides again, on the top layer of your stack (
    if you used playing cards, slip a bit of printer paper on top of the stack of cards). Now, reverse the level end for end and see if it shows level. If not, it's out by half the discrepancy. Adjust your level, then fiddle with the card stack, repeating this test until you get a level bubble both ways.

    Testing for plumb is simpler. Find a stretch of smooth wall that you can draw a line on (best not done in the dining room unless you're a bachelor who never brings dates home). We'll assume you're doing this in the shed. If you're proud of your shed wall, tape up a big enough piece of butcher paper, cardboard, etc. Hold the level until the bubble's plumb and hold it firmly. Now run a pencil line down the face of the level that will be used in testing (on a wooden level, like yours, this will usually be the face opposite the level vial; on many metal levels, it can be either, but pick one). Turn the level around so that same face is on the other side of the line, and see if it mates to the line. If not, you're out by half the discrepancy. Adjust the vial and repeat until you can get a line that shows as plumb regardless of whether the level's on the right or the left side of the line.

    I've never been sure how to test 45s, if you've got a level with one of those; but I'm sure there's a test like these.
    ------------
    *Do y'all use that term down in Oz? Painter's tape is a masking tape with a less sticky adhesive. It removes more easily than traditional masking tape and doesn't leave a residue.
    Oh yeah - Painters tape (name) seems to be universal, I have 1" and 2" of the blue all the time as it's used with 3D printing for PLA prints

    Good information, it seems vaguely familiar but clearly forgotten in the mist of years

    Thanks and Cheers
    Phil

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    You may already know how to test a level, but, if not:

    To test for level: Find a suitably smooth, flat, kind of level surface that's longer than the level. Table saw, dining room table, etc. Set the level on it, vials up. Using painter's tape*, tape a piece of typing/printer paper under each end, leaving generous borders around. Hold the level still and mark around each end and a bit down each side of the level. At the low end of the level (based on how it reads), extend the lines out to the side and out the end, fairly far. Now, using card stock (or even playing cards), shim under the low end until the bubble shows level, using the line extensions to keep the level in the same position. Mark around the end/along the sides again, on the top layer of your stack (
    if you used playing cards, slip a bit of printer paper on top of the stack of cards). Now, reverse the level end for end and see if it shows level. If not, it's out by half the discrepancy. Adjust your level, then fiddle with the card stack, repeating this test until you get a level bubble both ways.

    Testing for plumb is simpler. Find a stretch of smooth wall that you can draw a line on (best not done in the dining room unless you're a bachelor who never brings dates home). We'll assume you're doing this in the shed. If you're proud of your shed wall, tape up a big enough piece of butcher paper, cardboard, etc. Hold the level until the bubble's plumb and hold it firmly. Now run a pencil line down the face of the level that will be used in testing (on a wooden level, like yours, this will usually be the face opposite the level vial; on many metal levels, it can be either, but pick one). Turn the level around so that same face is on the other side of the line, and see if it mates to the line. If not, you're out by half the discrepancy. Adjust the vial and repeat until you can get a line that shows as plumb regardless of whether the level's on the right or the left side of the line.

    I've never been sure how to test 45s, if you've got a level with one of those; but I'm sure there's a test like these.
    ------------
    *Do y'all use that term down in Oz? Painter's tape is a masking tape with a less sticky adhesive. It removes more easily than traditional masking tape and doesn't leave a residue.
    Oh yeah - Painters tape (name) seems to be universal, I have 1" and 2" of the blue all the time as it's used with 3D printing for PLA prints

    Good information, it seems vaguely familiar but clearly forgotten in the mist of years

    Thanks and Cheers
    Phil

Similar Threads

  1. SOUTH AUST Spirit Level J. Rabone & Sons 2'6""
    By GeoffS in forum WOODWORK - Tools & Machinery
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 23rd February 2020, 12:42 AM
  2. John Herring & Sons Plane Irons.
    By planemaker in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11th August 2014, 12:13 PM
  3. Rabone Machinists Level
    By j.ashburn in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 9th April 2013, 11:43 PM
  4. Stanley Rule and Level Co no93 Spirit Level
    By Sapling in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 24th May 2010, 07:23 PM
  5. Spirit Level - Which One Please?
    By Metal Head in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 20th July 2006, 09:32 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •