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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Sydney
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    Default Makita Circular Saw Groove Cutter 5900B

    Hi,

    I was given this saw and cant find any information on the internet about it.
    I think its designed for Trenching bottom and top plates for studs.
    Has anyone seen one of these before? What are they worth?

    Thanks
    L1020192.jpgL1020196.jpgL1020194.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
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    71
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    Default

    The Makita 5900b saw (9-1/4") is probably Makita's biggest selling model. It has been around for about 30 years, and most builders have / had one.
    As for the trenching head, I have never seen one, and I doubt it is a Makita original item, although the extended guard does look quite professional.
    It is still a current model, although a few slight improvements have been made.
    They are a bit on the heavy side, with many smaller and lighter machines now quite popular, but when a bit of grunt is required, the 5900b comes into it's own.
    Have a look on Gumtree to get an idea of current pricing, or call in to a Cash Converters, they turn up there quite often.

    Alan...

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    4,475

    Default

    That is exactly what itis used for trenching studs and roofing timbers, they are not used in Australia to my knowlege,
    were very popular on American building sites, all the American makers like BLack&Decker, Porta cable, Milwaulkee used to list them
    and may still carry them

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    696

    Default

    Haven't used that particular Makita trencher, but I have seen a few bastardized versions of the Makita 9¼ saw with base plate cut to accept a Black and Decker trenching head
    Pretty wild setup, OH&S would have had a kitten seeing those setups.
    I have only used one of these...
    Makita trencher.jpg
    when I was an apprentice.
    From memory I think they were about $300 and came in a nice wooden box.

    I've also seen Radial Arm saws setup on site with trenching heads installed.

    All that work, because the frames were hardwood.
    A couple of years into my apprenticeship we moved over to the light framing code...PINE...glorious pine, saved me a lot of hard yakka.


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    79
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    601

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    Yes this saw and others like were used when green or close to green hardwood was used for house frames ,as the timber varied in size as it seasoned and dried out trenches were cut to make the bottom of the trench and the base of the top and bottom plate consistant,therefore making the walls a consistant height.
    Lots of builders back then had this system set up on a frame and had a drop saw type that did the job.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
    Posts
    825

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nrb View Post
    Yes this saw and others like were used when green or close to green hardwood was used for house frames ,as the timber varied in size as it seasoned and dried out trenches were cut to make the bottom of the trench and the base of the top and bottom plate consistant,therefore making the walls a consistant height.
    Lots of builders back then had this system set up on a frame and had a drop saw type that did the job.

    Hey Guys, the first part is right, I agree that trenches were cut into OB Hardwood because the thickness varied in the OB, problem is that the only machine that would cut trenches accurately would be a docking saw or trencher set with a dado blade, because it gauged the timber from the table upon which the timber rests to the blade.
    This Makita Power Saw would not do this accurately or well as each cut would have to be measured individually to achieve this as it gauges of the base of the power saw.
    I have used this type of power saw a long time ago for checking in or recessing metal angle brace into stud walls.

    just my 2 cents any way...

    Melbourne Matty.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    696

    Default

    ...you're spot on Matty, that's why we used to use a marking gauge referenced off the bottom of the bottom plate and top of the top plate and adjust the trencher to that depth, usually only 10mm depth of cut approximately.
    Not too accurate, good enough to a mm or 2, and it was wet and green hardwood bound to shrink a helluva lot before the roof went on.
    We couldn't afford a radial arm saw back then


  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Imbil
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    Default

    Do you mean one of these I made a sled for this many years ago and used to use it for cutting tenon's and half joints.
    Regards Rod.
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