Thread: Mathieson and son 7/8 rebate plane

That's a double knicker blade so its for cutting a dado or trench.
I freehand sharpen on an oilstone as a skewed blade cant be done in the usual hone guide. With the knicker a slip stone or diamond paddle. Do not touch the outside but sharpen towards the points and try to keep both points the same height.
A nice plane and Mathieson was a very good tool maker.
Regards
John

As John has said - an excellent plane.
Be careful sharpening the cutter to keep the bevel precise. If it starts to lose its original skew angle, you won't be able to make full shavings.
Also, you can remove the nickers to use it as a regular shallow rebate plane if you want.
Tom

Thank you for the replies.
Much appreciated.
Lyle

Hi Lyle. Apologies if you already worked it out but it is for cutting across the grain (as John alluded too with his reference to a dado). The knicker blade scores ahead of the full blade (and that's why John told you to only sharpen the inside).

OK, I have sharpened the blade and nickers. But unfortunately I can't get the blade to sit correctly to get a shaving. To me it looks like the skew angle is wrong. I've tapped the blade around trying to get it to sit square with the base, but the point of the skew always sticks out.
Any help/hints/tips or videos to help me out.
Note that I might be too stupid to own one of these new fangled (to me) wooden planes.
Yours in frustration
Lyle

As Tom said in post #3 you need to ensure the skew angle is correct; it requires a compound grind where as well as the primary bevel you need to factor in the skew angle. An expensive way to do this is using a Multi Jig on a Tormek wetstone; but as this is a $1400 outlay a considerably cheaper method would be using a grinder fitted with a proprietary tool rest like THIS ONE from Carbatec.

You could try to hand grind this but it really depends on how confident you are at using a grinder freehand.

Hi Lyle. The blade should be slightly wider than the plane body and the same dimension across the skew as the knicker (I would measure with verniers when the blade is in the plane). To check the skew angle, colour in the back of the blade with a texta, put the blade back in the plane and scribe a line across the back (parallel to the body) and sharpen to this line. Actually before all this check that the base is square to the sides, adjust accordingly and then go through the before mentioned procedure. May as well check base is flat too

I've had to re-grind some skews on some planes like this one - for the simple reason that repeated sharpenings have altered the skew angle and it will not take a full width shaving.
I have worked out a technique that works for me, and I'll try to describe it.

1. Insert the blade as you normally would with the tang centred in the blade hole.
2. Turn the plane upside down and push the blade through the mouth until the lowest side is level with the base - the other side will project too far.
3. Fix the blade in position with the wedge.
4. Place a steel rule flat on the sole and push it flush up to the back of the blade.
5. Use a permanent market to draw a line across the back of the blade.
6. Remove the blade.
7. Re-grind the skew to this line, re-grind the bevel and re- sharpen - be careful to never go beyond your line or you will be back where you started.
Note: You will probably muck it up the first time, but with care you can get it right.

Tom

I have just noticed that my method is a long winded way of doing the same thing as Julian

Nice plane…yours is a RH version…they came in both RH and LH in sizes from 1/4 to 1” although I have never seen a 1” version of either… I have been fortunate in being able to add most RH versions to my stash and a few of the LH… 1/2” versions seem to be more common than the other sizes…I picked up 3/8” LH plane just yesterday. I’m yet to put any of to work so I’ll be interested to see how you go at sharpen the blade. By the way the wedge on your nicker blade isn’t correct..it should just have a small roll that faces the side of the plane. I will take a photo tomorrow for you. They aren’t that hard to remanufacture if you have a bit of beech lying around,
Gaza

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Hi Lyle. The blade should be slightly wider than the plane body and the same dimension across the skew as the knicker (I would measure with verniers when the blade is in the plane). To check the skew angle, colour in the back of the blade with a texta, put the blade back in the plane and scribe a line across the back (parallel to the body) and sharpen to this line. Actually before all this check that the base is square to the sides, adjust accordingly and then go through the before mentioned procedure. May as well check base is flat too

MA, this is what one does with a shoulder plane, but not with a dado plane. The body is not as important as the blade and nicker relationship. The nickers need to be a smidgeon wider than the blade, and set up that way.

Lyle, check that the body is straight and square. It is quite common for these plane bodies to warp a little. The side with a hump in the centre will need to be flattened, otherwise the plane will not navigate the dado it is cutting.

Regards from Perth

Derek

OK.
Thanks all. Seems like I have some work to do yet.
I'll recheck the flatness and squareness. But I'm pretty sure just getting the blade right will be the thing.
The nicker blade wedge I thought was original. Be nice to see what it is supposed to look like. I do have some nice beech, so looking forward to trying to make the wedge.
Thanks again for the excellent advice.
Lyle

Mathieson Dado Plane 3-4 RH 001.jpgMathieson Dado Plane 1-2 RH-LH 001.jpgMathieson Dado Plane 1-2 RH-LH 002.jpg
Here are some images that show the Correct wedge for the nicker and also the Left and right versions of the Dado planes. These were also called a flooring Raglet or trenching plane. Originally used to cut a groove in floor boards to take the tongue of Dado Panels. I haven't got around to getting these tuned to use them. My 7/8" is a left hand version and is missing the Nicker and wedge and will require a bit of work to get back to a full working plane.
Gaza

Thanks for the replies.
I've checked for square, all good.
Yet to attack the blade but have confidence to go out and do it now.
Gaza, can I ask for close up photos of the nicker wedge for the RH and.
Lyle

Originally Posted by Lyle

Gaza, can I ask for close up photos of the nicker wedge for the RH and.
Lyle

No worries mate.... It will be the weekend most likely before I could get in the workshop.
Gaza