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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba, Qld
    Age
    31
    Posts
    2,520

    Default Old Stanley Marking Gauge

    Saw it in an antique shop, pretty old, not very good condition, can just make out the measurements and the Stanley Badge.

    Should I buy it ($6)
    Should I restore it?
    And If so how am I to restore it?

    *sorry no pics*

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Darling Downs West Aus
    Age
    57
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    460

    Default

    eh, If its usable you cant go wrong for 6 bucks, does it have character?
    ____________________________
    Craig
    Saving a tree from woodchippng is like peeing in the pool;
    you get a warm feeling for a while but nobody notices.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba, Qld
    Age
    31
    Posts
    2,520

    Default

    More character than... ...no analogy comes to mind

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Lindfield N.S.W.
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,643

    Default

    How to restore?

    Depends on what you want it to look like.

    How I would do it:
    1. wash in warm water using a soft brush to get off the loose dirt and crud - don't scrub hard, you may remove decals etc.
    2. look at it closely and decide whether it is a "collector" or a "user".
    3. if it's a "collector" put it up for sale - you will get more than $6 and use the profit to buy a user.
    4. if its a user, check that it is square (you do have a dead accurate square don't you, it is essential if you are going to restore a square - have a look at Stu's podcast). If it isn't decide how to make it square. If you can't, throw it away. If you can get it square, do that first (with an old square of my Dad's, I put marking blue on the blade, marked the correct line for the blade to be square and filed it back to that line and then jointed it).
    5. then decide what you are going to do to remove rust and protect against rust. If, like here, I can't use electrolysis to get rid of the rust, I usually wire wheel most of the rust off, perhaps suspend the blade in a citric bath to get rid of the rest (make sure that you keed the wood out of the acid) then use cold gun blue.
    6. then do the woodwork - If the edges are badly nicked, I might mark a line about 2mm back from the edge, shave the wood back to that line with a combo of planes and scrapers and maybe screw a brass edging strip along it - it won't be a Stanley then, but it might be much better to use.
    7. I usually strip off the varnish and stain, sand smooth to about 800 grit and then use U-Beaut sanding sealer, Hard Shellac and Trad Wax. But if there are decals etc, then (if I haven't sold it on eBay to some daft collector), I won't do much to the wood, except keep it clean.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Sydney, Northern Beaches
    Posts
    1,189

    Default

    Hi FC, i don't know anything about restoring old tools but I did notice something on this site; http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/...markGauge1.asp

    Has pictures too.

    prozac

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Perth - SOR
    Age
    78
    Posts
    482

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by prozac View Post
    Hi FC, i don't know anything about restoring old tools but I did notice something on this site; http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/...markGauge1.asp

    Has pictures too.

    prozac
    He has more faith and patience than me.


    Denn

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