Thread: Paul Call saw bench

Great looking little machine Barry I don't how comfortable I would be using a saw where the table tilt's as opposed to the blade but I guess you would get used to it,like most things I suppose it is what you're used to using that seam's normal. But it has come up very well dust extraction can be difficult on a lot of the older machinery but it sounds like you will be able to handle it.
Regards Rod.

You are right Barry there is a pressed metal cover which fits over the side as per pic. 3

If you want I can post a photo of what it looks like. I have a few Paulcalls and love 'em.

None are restored to the beautiful job you have done, but are good work horses none the less.

Well done.


Cheers

Steve

Steve and Rod, Thanks for your imput. Steve, when you have time and I would love to see a photo of the cover plate. Have currently fashioned something out of pieces of ply.

Regards Barry

Barry, that's a nice restoration you have done there, its great how you have picked out the letters in red, sets it of well.

Thanks for showing !!

Melbourne Matty.

Originally Posted by linesman

Steve and Rod, Thanks for your imput. Steve, when you have time and I would love to see a photo of the cover plate. Have currently fashioned something out of pieces of ply.

Regards Barry

Here ya go Barry,

Side cover on and off the saw, also 2 variations of dust collection.

The first has a 4" 90 degree union that then attaches directly to a 4" hose.

The 2nd system falls into a box.

The second system seems to work fine as by the time the sawdust reaches the bottom of the chute it's run out of puff and just sits obediently in a cardboard box until I empty it or the dog drags it out.

Hope the pics help.

Cheers

Steve

G'day Steve. Thanks for the photos, a picture is certainly worth a 1000 words. Now I understand the side plate slides down as the bench top tilts to the 45. The side cover plate I made I'll consign to the bin & make a new one like yours. For dust extraction I went for a 100mm outlet underneath.

Thanks Barry.

Gee that's a nice job of restoration Linesman, and isn't it satisfying to bring a piece of kit back from the dead and use it once again.

Steve

Thanks for the compliment Kamusur, yes i'll put it to work this week.

Cheers Barry

What a great transformation. I can see why more modern saws go for a tilting blade over tilting table.


I have heard of people using molasses before, can you tell us a bit more about your experience with it?

Firstly where do you get it and is it expensive?
Can you reuse it on multiple projects?
Is it supposed to convert the rust back or more of an acid bath and eat the rust? Therefore can it be left in the molasses too long?
What did you use to clean it after?



Thanks.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

What a great transformation. I can see why more modern saws go for a tilting blade over tilting table.


I have heard of people using molasses before, can you tell us a bit more about your experience with it?

Firstly where do you get it and is it expensive?
Can you reuse it on multiple projects?
Is it supposed to convert the rust back or more of an acid bath and eat the rust? Therefore can it be left in the molasses too long?
What did you use to clean it after?



Thanks.

Dsel 74 I don't know that I can help you with all the answers. Someone here may be able to fill the blanks.

I paid $1.60 a litre for the molasses at the local produce Agent. Most agents have it in bulk some require you to take your own container my supplier decants into smaller plastic containers they provide ready to go. A phone call to the local agent would sort it out. You definitely need the stock food grade molasses. I understand it has additives that make it work the way it does.(Don't bother with the health food shop molasses)
I mixed my molasses at the ratio of 15 to 1 with water & made up 40 litres in a plastic wheel barrow, the only container I had big enough to take the saw bench top. It took two & a half days & I took the parts out of the mix each day scrubbed & hosed them off then placed them back in the mix. It appears to turn the rust into a sludge & it washes off. I"m not sure about multiple use. I'm on my second project & it still appears to work. Maybe some one else can clear that up for you. To finish I washed the parts in water & dried in the sun then sprayed with WD40 and polished it.

Cheers Barry

Originally Posted by linesman

Dsel 74 I don't know that I can help you with all the answers. Someone here may be able to fill the blanks.

I paid $1.60 a litre for the molasses at the local produce Agent. Most agents have it in bulk some require you to take your own container my supplier decants into smaller plastic containers they provide ready to go. A phone call to the local agent would sort it out. You definitely need the stock food grade molasses. I understand it has additives that make it work the way it does.(Don't bother with the health food shop molasses)
I mixed my molasses at the ratio of 15 to 1 with water & made up 40 litres in a plastic wheel barrow, the only container I had big enough to take the saw bench top. It took two & a half days & I took the parts out of the mix each day scrubbed & hosed them off then placed them back in the mix. It appears to turn the rust into a sludge & it washes off. I"m not sure about multiple use. I'm on my second project & it still appears to work. Maybe some one else can clear that up for you. To finish I washed the parts in water & dried in the sun then sprayed with WD40 and polished it.

Cheers Barry

Hi
Yes you can reuse the molasses. It forms a scunge on top which you just wipe away. As Barry has said you get a black sludge on top Which washes off with water. I air dry it with compressed air. It will tend to flash rust if left wet. If you intend to paint it you will need to get primer on fairly soon once dry. I`ve found Lanolin spray to work very well as a rust preventative on areas you don`t want to paint.
Regards
Ross

Thanks for the info guys.

I have a very rust Dawn post drill that spent 3-5 years out side in the open, down on the peninsula. Tea trees & salt are are no conducive to tool preservation.


Excuse my ignorance but what is a produce Agent? Is that a live stock feed place??

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Thanks for the info guys.

I have a very rust Dawn post drill that spent 3-5 years out side in the open, down on the peninsula. Tea trees & salt are are no conducive to tool preservation.


Excuse my ignorance but what is a produce Agent? Is that a live stock feed place??

Yes. just go to a produce agent and ask for molasses. I just bought some more today @$2.00/lt You can experiment with ratio. I`ve used it at about 10 parts water to 1 part molasses. time taken to remove rust will also depend on how severe the rust is. Also have a look on youtube and see whats on there.