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  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    ...All this talk of post drills and I realise I haven't acquired one in ages, need to feed the addiction...
    I showed someone my wall of drills recently, demonstrating one of the post drills. They commented "But do you really need five of them?" I then pointed out five more in various of disrepair laying on the floor .

    I managed to sell one two weeks ago on Trademe - a Champion Blower & Forge No.101. Maybe I'm cured Hallelujah !!

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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  3. #47
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    You sold one? But why-o-why? Do you need a new kidney or something?

    It was because of those damn Wadkins wasn't it, they made you do it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  4. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    You sold one? But why-o-why?
    I got a bit sick of tripping over them.

    On the wall I have a Dawn No.611; Silver No.14; Boynton & Plummer No.1 1/2; Wiley & Russell "Green River" No.741; & a Silver No.22. Downstairs in my workshop I have the Canadian Blower & Forge No.61. SWMBO says no more on the walls .

    Anything on the floor that isn't a Silver (my favourites) is going to get the boot - so there's another Champion Blower & Forge No.101 still to go.

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    It was because of those damn Wadkins wasn't it, they made you do it.
    Maybe...

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  5. #49
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    Montreal
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    Hello! I'm sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm Canadian, and I've recently got a CanB&F 612 post drill, and to be honest, your thread is the only one I found with alot of pictures and explanations on how to disassemble it.

    Mine is in rough shape and has been modified and fixed to a certain extend.

    The only missing part seems to be bottom piece that screws in the wood to hold the table shaft in place.

    My current problem is... I can't remove the crank gear... That giant flat screw doesn't seem to want to move!

    Since you removed yours... I'm wondering, is it counter thread?

    I am not restoring mine to original, as it's been quite altered, I want it to be operational, because I will actually use it in the shed!

    Thanks for the great post and description!

  6. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowynight View Post
    Hello! I'm sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm Canadian, and I've recently got a CanB&F 612 post drill, and to be honest, your thread is the only one I found with alot of pictures and explanations on how to disassemble it.

    Mine is in rough shape and has been modified and fixed to a certain extend.

    The only missing part seems to be bottom piece that screws in the wood to hold the table shaft in place.

    My current problem is... I can't remove the crank gear... That giant flat screw doesn't seem to want to move!

    Since you removed yours... I'm wondering, is it counter thread?

    I am not restoring mine to original, as it's been quite altered, I want it to be operational, because I will actually use it in the shed!

    Thanks for the great post and description!
    Nevermind! I finally got it out yesterday! I had to make a larger flat head screwdriver/pry bar with a 1/8" by 1" by 36" long, I guess even my biggest flat head screwdriver wasn't applying enough strength to unstick the bolt that might have been there since it was made...

  7. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowynight View Post
    Nevermind! I finally got it out yesterday!...
    Good to hear. When I read your post tonight, I couldn't for the life of me remember how it came apart. I was planning to go down to my workshop after work tomorrow (it's evening here as I type). Now I don't need to .

    Please post some pictures of your 612 - either here or start another thread. We love pictures.

    Quote Originally Posted by Snowynight
    ...I'm Canadian, and I've recently got a CanB&F 612 post drill...
    When I first got the post drill I joined the Canadian forum and asked about it, but got little response (and of the 9 posts in the thread, only the last three are from Canadians). https://forum.canadianwoodworking.co...-61-post-drill So I did my restoration thread here.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  8. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Good to hear. When I read your post tonight, I couldn't for the life of me remember how it came apart. I was planning to go down to my workshop after work tomorrow (it's evening here as I type). Now I don't need to .

    Please post some pictures of your 612 - either here or start another thread. We love pictures.

    When I first got the post drill I joined the Canadian forum and asked about it, but got little response (and of the 9 posts in the thread, only the last three are from Canadians). https://forum.canadianwoodworking.co...-61-post-drill So I did my restoration thread here.

    Cheers, Vann.
    I did start a thread on the forum, now I need to find how to post a link in tapatalk

    Kitchener Blower & Forge no612

  9. #53
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    Default I found another one !! No.3.

    I haven't done much with my CB&F post drill for quite a while. It's a pain to use because I have to go borrow the pawl from the dawn post drill each time...

    So when I saw another on Trademe a few weeks back it caught my attention.

    Cb1.jpg Cb4.jpg Sellers photos.

    It does have a little surface rust .

    Cb2.jpg CB3.jpg More sellers photos.

    Every bit of steel is so badly corroded as to be unsalvageable. The cast iron has survived a little better (as it does). It has the often missing self-feed arm and pawl, and the often missing flywheel. And the mainframe isn't (hasn't been) broken.

    So I put in a bid and am now the owner.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    The rivet holding the pawl to the auto-feed arm was bent. I removed it and straightened it. Next I was going to heat it red hot and rivet it over.

    But a trial fitting shows a problem.

    PawlUHL.jpg View with pawl held in the engaged position.
    PawlDHL.jpg View with pawl released. Gravity causes the heavier side to drop.

    The counterweight on the pawl is nowhere near heavy enough. It won't rotate the pawl to engage the notches on the feedwheel.

    So I looked on the web.

    CanBl&Forge61c.jpg CanBl&Forge61b.jpg Two views of other Canadian Blower & Forge No.61 pawls

    BuffaloForgeNo61z.jpg BuffaloForgeNo61c.jpg Two views of the (supposedly) identical Buffalo Forge No.61 pawl.

    Each has a counterweight slightly longer and much heavier than the pawl itself. So mine is unique - and doesn't work.
    Frankly, I'm apawled .
    Yay, a donor pawl.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  10. #54
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    Default Disassembly - pt.1.

    First I removed the self-feed arm and pawl - with a hacksaw . Then ground off what was left of the rivet and separated the pawl from the arm. The pawl came off in good condition and buffed up well.

    Ch3.jpg

    It's now in undercoat.

    The arm isn't in such good condition. It has a braze repair...

    Ch4.jpg

    ... but in spite of a deep 'vee' the braze hasn't been done well.

    Ch6.jpg Ch5.jpg

    It'll need reworking. And the little bit of shaft will need removing.

    Lucky I only need the pawl. Now where did I put that original rivet?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #55
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    Default Disassembly - pt.2.

    The next piece I decided to attempt to remove is the flywheel. I don't know if I'll use it - the existing flywheel is a poor casting.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...I stripped and repainted the flywheel off my second No.61. It is a dog of a casting. The two halves of the mould did not line up, and there are voids/slag inclusions.

    Fw1HL.jpg Fw3HL.jpg Note the very "un-round" shape of the rim (1st photo), and the misalignment of the two halves of the spoke (2nd photo)

    Still, it’s complete and intact…
    These are sometimes missing from post drills listed on auction sites - so if I don't use it I can probably sell it to help recoup the cost of buying this rust-bucket.

    Anyway, out with the hacksaw again, and Bob's your uncle.

    CB10.jpg

    It's not a bad casting, but there is some pitting in the rim. Once again I'll need to remove the cut-off stub of the shaft. My intention is to drill a hole through (say 10 or 12mm dia.) and then carefully cut out the remainder with a gas axe.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  12. #56
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    Default Disassembly - pt.3.

    The next part I thought I'd have a go at saving is the main frame. The frame on mine has been broken and repaired.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Fr1HL.jpg
    ...which shows the repair to be brazed (not cast iron welded), and rough - a disc grinder has been used to machine back the brass - and iron! .

    Fr10ML.jpg braze repair.
    Saving the frame will involve not removing a part, but removing every part until only the frame remains. I suspect this is a fools errand, but I'll give it a go and if I break it - oh well

    First I removed the feedwheel from the top. This came off in one piece (two if you count the sq. head set screw) and I've cleaned it up ready for storage.

    Ch2.jpg CB11.jpg

    Next the gear from the other end of the flywheel shaft. It looks reusable once the shaft stub has been removed.

    Cb5.jpg

    Next the S&D chuck and a Jacobs type chuck. I won't try to restore this .

    Ch1.jpg Just slightly rusted .

    The coupler body is cast iron, but it's internals are steel. I don't know if it's worth attempting to disassemble further (except maybe to the save the sq. head set screw). I'll put it aside for now.

    CB12.jpg

    The next step is a problem. Both the angled gears (crank gear and spindle gear) are seized in place - with each preventing the removal of the other. I decided to sacrifice the crank gear (as its stub screw will most likely mean it has to be cut off in pieces anyway). I cut the bottom off with a slitting disc. This has allowed me to move the spindle gear and spindle stub slightly - enough to get in there with the hacksaw.

    Ch7.jpg Ch8.jpg Ch9.jpg

    And that's as far as I've gotten so far.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  13. #57
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    Default Disassembly - pt.4.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann
    ...Next the gear from the other end of the flywheel shaft. It looks reusable once the shaft stub has been removed.

    Cb5.jpg...
    I wire brushed the gear/cog and then scrounged the use of a 25 tonne hydraulic press and pressed out the stub of the shaft.

    CBF20.jpg

    That was less bother than expected, so as I had the self-feed lever with me, I pressed the stub out of that as well.

    CBF22.jpg

    That went well..

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...Documenting some of the differences:

    The two Flywheel Cogs look identical – both even have the same off-centre “boss”, yet there is a subtle difference in the label bearing the “A8” lettering, suggesting either the original label was replaced, or it’s a different pattern.

    FC2HL.jpg FC10HL.jpg FC11ML.jpg
    ...
    The Flywheel Cog on this one is quite different. No off-centre "boss". No "A8" label on the pattern.

    CBF21.jpg Cog from 2nd drill, right - from 3rd drill, left.

    It looks more like the flywheel cog on a Dawn post drill. Of course I now have more flywheel cogs than I can shake a stick at - so if anybody needs one...

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  14. #58
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    Default Disassembly - pt.5.

    I thought removing the crank gear might be the hardest. It's held on by a large steel screw, and as everything steel on this drill is heavily corroded, I thought it might be a hopeless task trying to get it off - and trying to get the screw or it's stub, out of the casting. But with some persuasive taps (thumps?) from a hammer on the flat (where I'd cut part of the crank gear away) I was able to loosen and then simply screw the whole lot out.

    CBF30.jpg

    The next thing, and the part that put up the biggest fight, was the feedscrew nut. Twice it defied heating, and numerous doses of penetrating oil. But finally I got it out (in pieces). I forgot to take any photos of this.

    Finally there was the stub of the column tube - rusted away, but leaving a rusty remnant inside the bottom of the casting. Some heat, some cutting with the gas axe and I was able to knock it loose and prize it out.

    CBF28.jpg

    At this stage I'd managed to completely disassemble all parts off the frame of the drill WITHOUT BREAKING IT. I am surprised (but pleased).

    CBF29.jpg Note the coat of grey paint.

    I'd also managed to push the cut off stub of the shaft out of the flywheel hub...

    CBF31.jpg

    ...the cut off spindle stub out of the spindle gear...

    CBF32.jpg

    ...and the cut off stub of the shaft out of the flywheel gear (no photo).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  15. #59
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    Default Disassembly - pt.6.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...The coupler body is cast iron, but it's internals are steel. I don't know if it's worth attempting to disassemble further (except maybe to the save the sq. head set screw). I'll put it aside for now.

    CB12.jpg
    The final part left to be disassembled is the coupler. This came apart easier than expected.

    I applied heat, and after it cooled I tapped out the remaines of the anti-rotation plate (which also engages a slot at the top of the spindle). This allowed the top of the spindle, the two thrust bearing races and the ten ball bearings to drop out. None of those parts are reusable .

    CBF23.jpg

    This left just the stub of the feed screw firmly rusted in the top of the coupler body.

    CBF25.jpg

    I drilled a hole and used an easy-out to wind that out.

    CBF26.jpg CBF27.jpg

    Disassembly complete .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  16. #60
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    Default Self-Feed Arm Repair.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...The arm isn't in such good condition. It has a braze repair...

    Ch4.jpg

    ... but in spite of a deep 'vee' the braze hasn't been done well.

    Ch6.jpg Ch5.jpg
    I veed out the front face and brazed it up again. I know I'm not supposed to do this, but I ground the brass to flush with the cast-iron top and bottom - and also on the front face but finished off the braze level with the top of the flute, not the bottom. I then applied paint (primer and two coats of enamel - brush applied). Sorry, no 'before' photos.

    CBF34.jpg CBF35.jpg

    CBF33.jpg

    Good for another 100 years!

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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