Thread: Roll up roll up free vintage handsaws

Brad

I didn't quite find what I was looking for on the Forum regarding hammering, but I did turn up this video by David W. he is D.W. on our Forum. After quite a lengthy introduction, at least in part on how he is avoiding the scorn of SWMBO, he tells of three golden rules just after the 6.30 minute mark and then gets into the hammering.

YouTube

Some comments I would make are that the saw must not rattle as it is struck as that indicates it is not sitting flat enough on your anvil. Secondly, if you can organise it so the teeth are over the edge it is better. As you can see in this video, the hammer marks are present after the process even though David emphasises the use of light blows.

I tend to drop the hammer onto the plate rather than strike and I allow the "bounce" to keep up a regular pattern. Incidentally, my "anvil" is a lump of railway iron.

Whilst you don't need a dedicated saw hammer, called a dog-hammer, this thread of Rob Streeper might give a few pointers as to improvisations.

Sawsmithing hammers

and this thread shows my saw hammers. I ended up with five hammers all made by Rob Streeper. Post #27 shows my "anvil."

Care Package from San Antonio

Whatever you use as your anvil there should be no dirt or imperfections of the surface or they will transfer to the metal blade.

Following on from D.W.'s video there is a Paul Sellars vid too where he gives some tips on back saws. Rob Streeper pointed me in the right direction with those as the back needs to be slid on from the toe towards the handle and this creates tension in the blade. If it is tapped on from above the blade normally buckles.

Regards
Paul