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  1. #1
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    Default Sometimes the small things leave you with good feelings

    I've never been a guy that liked western saws. In fact since I was first shown a Japanese saw in 1978 or 9 I've maybe used western saws two or three times since. They just never made sense to push through wood as opposed to pull with an ultra thin blade that slices through effortlessly. A few years back I acquired 7, 5 Disstons, a Spear and Jacksons and a Simonds, rip and crosscut saws at a car boot sale in the UK for 10pound; and another two brass back saws, dovetail and carcass saw, from somewhere else for probably a tenner each... Basically, pretty hard to pass up. My goal was to flip them when I got back... But they spent the next seven or eight years in a cupboard gathering rust and dust...

    Then recently I was helping out a couple sort out their deceased fathers' tools. I've mentioned here a few times the stuff this guy squirrelled away. I.e. Pristine Stanley 55 and 45. Five infill planes where one is a Norris jack plane that's maybe been used once to see how it worked and that's it. Plenty of Liberty Bell planes. It just went on and on... In that menagerie of tools I did grab a couple of the things that were well on the user end of things... Two of which were the two saws in the pic. How they look now, is not what I dragged out into the light of day. They were in absolute awful condition. The only thing that caught my interest in them was the unfamiliar medallions. I may not use western saws but I have been paying attention to woodworking tools since the late 70s. Heck, I bought my first plane when I was 15, in 79, a Stanley 45... Anyways, the top one was caked in congealed oil. I think the son said his father loved to put linseed oil on everything, over and over till whatever it was, was completely cocooned in the stuff. But the teeth looked good, in fact it looked like they were factory teeth. The bottom one was in real S#$t shape, almost a throw away is what it looked like. Caked in oil but also rust had gotten to some of it. And it was missing about 25% of the teeth. Personally I have no idea how someone could knock off that many teeth, but I was to find out later why...

    So they were willing to part with them for a total of 30 bucks, which I thought was a bit too generous, but the medallions were driving my curiosity. So I get them home and brake out the wire wheel, course steel wool and turps. Thankfully the handles come off easily and I attack the plates. Took about two hours to strip the gunk off. The top one has a partial etching that I later dug into. The bottom one showed no evidence of an etching so I thought it was probably some cheapo, especially because so many teeth were broken off. Handles were stripped, cleaned and sanded. Top one was nothing special, just beech, not even a fruit wood. Had me thinking more, I paid too much... The bottom one however, the handle when sanded really caught my attention. I also noticed it was heavier than I expected. As I looked closer, I thought maybe it's pear, definitely not Apple. Then the penny dropped, it's rosewood! Well that got my attention!! The colour in the pic is its natural colour, finished with padded on shellac.

    So later that night I have the first saw plate under the lights trying to decipher the partial etching writing. Turns out it's a saw made by a company called: Abraham Ashton Ltd. Hmmm I thinks. Now I need to dig out my uncles family tree stuff and do some looking. Well bugger me!! This guy turns out to be my great great great, somewhere down the tree, uncle. I've always known my family on my dads side have been tool makers and cutlers in Sheffield but I didn't know anything more... Turns out he wasn't known for making good saws but hey, it's worth fixing up now, that's for sure!!

    The second one is also interesting. It has very good pedigree from the US. It was made by G.H. Bishop & Co Cincinnati. Apparently, saw collectors in the US snapped them up real fast when they find them... Problem with this one though is it needs serious surgery. Now remember I said I haven't used a western saw since about grade 10. And as such I haven't even touch a saw file - ever. After all, no one ever tries to file a Japanese saw that I use.

    So I did ask here if anyone knew a good saw guy around Brisbane or Sunshine Coast, but no joy was had. I did find a saw guy in Wide Bay that wasn't all that keen to take mine and punch out new teeth. But he was willing to take about 20mins of his time and explain what I might encounter with such a saw - really nice guy. He expected it to be quite brittle, after what I described to him and its age and I'd probably have issues with setting the teeth and them breaking off. Anyway, it was up to me to either leave it alone or try my hand at filing a saw. The temptation was too great and I headed down the rabbit hole. It was also good thinking on my part to buy a bunch of saw files the son had to go with the saws...

    Now here's were a highly unknowledgeable, probably better described as an idiot, guy takes on a saw. I wasn't going to file off the remaining teeth, I broke out the angle grinder and proceeded to rip them off LOL. I was however more gentile and used a file to joint the plate flat. Now, I'm not the sort that likes to follow the rules or the crowd and in this case it was the same. The plate was stamped with 7tpi. But I didn't want a 7tpi saw, I wanted to be different, so I decided on 12tpi. But there is no way in hell I was going to file over 300 teeth. Me being the ignorant saw sharpening guy decided to short cut the process and use the angle grinder to rough the teeth out. Now is where all the smart saw guys are saying: what an effin idiot. I drew out a pattern in sketchup and contact cemented it to the plate, shaped a disk to 60 degrees and got down to business. In all honesty, one thing I am really good at is hand eye coordination and dexterity, so I actually did pretty good at roughing the teeth out. Now it was down to finish them off with a file - easy right... Well did I ever F%^k that up. What a mess I did of filing. Teeth as bad as a pom from Jaywick. I remember the saw expert saying bluing the teeth would harden them, but a close inspection showed no such bluing. So I suspect what he also said, the saw plate had inconsistent hardness along its length and my file was being pushed all over the place. To say the least it was a bit deflating.

    Out came the grinder again and back to a blank slate. I thought maybe I should do the smart thing this time and start with fewer teeth and stick to the 7tpi... So back to sketchup and a new pattern. But I was still not keen on filing all those teeth from scratch either, so out came the grinder again. Now I do remember the guy saying bluing the teeth hardened them. But that didn't happen on the first attempt as I was good at not dwelling long enough to heat the plate to 400F... It was going pretty good until I noticed the grinding wheel was glazing over... I tried to deglaze but it wasn't all that successful, but it was too late to stop now, so I thought. Grinding done, out came the file. First 20 or 30 teeth all good... Next ten teeth I destroyed the file. Yup, I had glazed the disk and started bluing the teeth. There was no point in carrying on. I was about to give up and just toss the saw. Thought, no, it's time for a beer or four and have a think. After the calming elixir had hit my brain, I decided I'd give it one more attempt, but I was going back to 12tpi. My gut feeling was I wanted a nice clean cutting crosscut saw, like I had originally planned. But this time I would file the teeth. One thing was for sure - I was going to need more beer. So got through the first file at 90 degrees and then a light rejoint and back through again at 10 degrees to take off any flat spots and give it a crosscut pattern - whatever that's called.

    So, what you see there in the pic is the final attempt - third time lucky! There's a few teeth that went rogue, but over all it turned out good. The litmus test however was setting the teeth. As planned I wanted a really fine cutting saw, so I gave it only the bare minimum of set. Not a single one broke off! All in all it only took 5 more beers.

    That was a couple weeks ago and tonight was my first time trying the saws. That’s were the title to this book comes from. Put a big grin on my face using them. The Bishop saw has such a long and smooth stroke with 12tpi, and it cut straight! And just enough set, any less and it would bind up. It takes a real light grip and very little effort to cut with – I let the saw do all the work. And the Ashton is an average saw but I have a distant connection to it. So overall, if you’re still reading this, I ended up with two really nice surprises from what I thought were junk. And learned something new. When trying to sharpen saws, have beer on hand, I make less mistakes then.
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  3. #2
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    Think 10 tpi is as small as you want to go on a crosscut but if you like the way it cuts then who am I to argue. Skinning a cat and all that.
    Nice looking old saws.
    Regards
    John

  4. #3
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    Welcome to the "dark" side.

  5. #4
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    Dad, had a wonderful 8 tpi Diston hand saw that was a dream to use. Sadly my BIL had no respect for it and it was lost.
    Mobyturns

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  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by orraloon View Post
    Think 10 tpi is as small as you want to go on a crosscut but if you like the way it cuts then who am I to argue. Skinning a cat and all that.
    Nice looking old saws.
    Regards
    John
    Ya, I knew I was going beyond the normal sharpening standards, but I wanted to ear mark this saw for cutting particularly high quality wood and leave a nice clean finish. It definitely ain't coming out for bunnings pine studs, plywood, or some iron bark fence post... There was a risk it would fail but I guess all those years using Japanese saws with tiny teeth had me thinking it was worth the risk. The set was a guess that paid off. Worst case scenario is I'd have to reset with a bit more. I've ran it through 100 year old beech and pine, and rosewood and it goes through them far better than I expected - the strokes are really smooth and clean.

    Overall I've devalued the saw, as far as a collector would be concerned, but that's not why I buy tools. They're to be used, not looked at.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    Dad, had a wonderful 8 tpi Diston hand saw that was a dream to use. Sadly my BIL had no respect for it and it was lost.

    Some tools are like that. They were the Spring season, Wednesday morning made tool. The weather is perfect, all the craftsmen were in good moods, and everything came together just right. I have a Bedrock 605 like that. Normally I trade out the old tools as Veritas comes out with an equivalent superior one... But I ain't getting rid of that plane, it just works so well.

  8. #7
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    Spin Doctor

    Wel done and well saved. Particularly for a first effort That would have been quite challenging.

    Abraham Ashton (& Sons Ltd) operated from Sheffield from 1888- 1893 at 17½ Meadow Street, and 1895 - 1951 at Burnt Tree Works, 17 Meadow St.. This is information from Simon Barley's book and he also notes that most of the saws appear to be second quality. However, that certainly does not mean they are unusable. They were probably cheaper, had less finesse and maybe did not hold an edge so well.

    The Bishop saw is a treat and the Rosewood handle you have identified places it at the top of their model range. I don't have access to Bishop catalogues unfortunately, but I did find three similar advertisements touting what I think is your saw. Designated the "Greyhound," it would have been a rival to Disston's D115 (first appeared in 1914), which later became the "Victory" saw and Atkin's No.400 model (first appeared around 1906) both of which had Rosewood handles. I think they and the Bishop saw are the only commercially made saws to have Rosewood handles. having said that, Bishop did not mention the handle was rosewood. Hmmm.. Unusual!

    This is one of the advertisements, which dated from 1916,

    GH Bishop and Co Greyhound. 1916.jpg

    and another from 1913.

    GH Bishop and Co 1913-14.jpg

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #8
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    Thx Mr B

    This is the listing I found for it. Not particularly old at the late 1930s but the wheat carving on this
    Screenshot 2023-08-06 103545.jpg
    matches mine exactly. I went back and it's definitely not Mahogany. I suspect I probably have the only one in Australia. They weren't' prolific in the US and definitely didn't try selling them down here. I think an immigrant brought it with them. On a side note. The father that did all the collecting, knew what he was looking at. He had a lot of tools that are non-existent, or vary rare to Australia.

    Funny thing about the Ashton. I was reading that neither he or his sons were noted as real or good saw makers, they bought out Burnt Tree Works and their reputation, but the handle on this one felt better than all the other saws I've got. It's one thing I noted when I first pulled it out of the basement.

  10. #9
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    Spin Doctor

    It is a little difficult to see, but I think the wheat carving is the same on the earlier advertisement and your link. However, there is an aspect I cannot fully explain. George Bishop saws was bought out in, I think, 1927 and became Ohlen-Bishop. (I have just found a reference that they merged in 1919). A 1927 catalogue features only this saw:

    Ohlen Bishop Home Mechanic saw. 1927 Cat..jpg

    The "home" moniker meant it was a low cost, budget saw. There was nothing else listed. However a 1937 catalogue featured this saw as top of the range.

    Ohlen Bishop B-501S. 1937 Cat..jpg

    Note that saw is a straightback and lightweight, which meant it was a narrow saw. However, there was a full depth skewback, which was the No.500. The numbering system is very reminiscent of Atkins' No.400 and a strong indicator as to where it was targeted.

    I am not sure where your information originated, but either the timelines are incorrect or the model is incorrect. The reference to Mahogany in your post is interesting and my conjecture (opinion if you prefer) is that the Mahogany handles were placed on a separate model saw during the war years. There were other austerity measures including restrictions on the use of brass other than for shell casings. perhaps the reference to a No.300 model was the downgraded wartime model.

    I would suggest that if the saw screws on your saw are made of brass (is there any evidence of nickel plating too?) it dates the saw as pre 1942 at least. Without the etch we can't tell whether it was pre WW1 or pre WW2.

    I don't know when Ohlen-Bishop ceased production as there is not a lot of information about them.

    You are right about the scarcity of Bishop saws in Australia. They did not have the same arrangements in place that the other major players had.

    Regards
    Paul
    l
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    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #10
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    Yes, the nuts are nickel plated for sure, though the medallion seems to be brass, and other side screws (no idea what they're called) seem to be plated but not nickel. Seems to be more brass over a copper based metal. There is a reference to the mahogany being cuban but this handle has weight to it that is noticeable. It's why I though maybe a pear wood. I've worked with Pear wood that was very heavy and this reminded me of that. I also have a French moulding plane in Pear wood that's a very dark rich reddish colour and unusually heavy, for a plane it's size.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Spin Doctor View Post
    Yes, the nuts are nickel plated for sure, though the medallion seems to be brass, and other side screws (no idea what they're called) seem to be plated but not nickel. Seems to be more brass over a copper based metal. There is a reference to the mahogany being cuban but this handle has weight to it that is noticeable. It's why I though maybe a pear wood. I've worked with Pear wood that was very heavy and this reminded me of that. I also have a French moulding plane in Pear wood that's a very dark rich reddish colour and unusually heavy, for a plane it's size.
    I have not seen any American saws that have used Pear for the handles. Apple was the preferred wood for the first line ranges with Beech used for secondary lines. Brazilian Rosewood was only used on the saws already mentioned. Mahogany was occasionally used (A few Disston D8s had this timber), but not often. Walnut was used on Disston's wartime saws instead of Brazilian Rosewood.

    The saw screws will be brass and both Disston and Atkins nickel plated these screws on the flagship models. However after 100 years the plating can wear off leaving the brass beneath. It may look a little coppery, but I am not aware of copper ever being used for this purpose.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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