Thread: Rust removal

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Crocy

That's interesting. I have not undertaken any electrolysis for many years now, but when I last dabbled, I experimented with some gouging rods. They did not seem to work for me, but I did not remove the copper casing. I still have the rods (about 12mm diameter) so one day I might have to revisit that. How easy was the copper to remove?

I always found that electrolysis worked very well for me within it's limitations (not suitable for thin metals such as saws) and perhaps that was down to the sacrificial anode, which was always stainless steel: However, in using stainless you must understand the potential risks with chromium hexavalent. It was why in a previous post I suggested using it at worst in a very well ventilated area and at best out in the open air. However, if this is only an occasional endeavour, I would not be unduly concerned. Still, don't stand over the top of it while it is fuming.

Regards
Paul

I use a very sharp Stanley knife or Olfa cutter, cut the copper film on a diagonal at the black end and peel it off.
I was given a document on derusting a fuel tank for a vintage car but in reverse. Tank full of electrolyte and anode poked through a piece of wood in the filler hole. Worked a treat. It warned of not to use stainless rod. I used the same process to clean my monster 2nd hand compressor tank that had never been drained.
I have the bottom half of a 200L plastic drum with a dedicated 12volt power supply permanently set up and it runs for long periods with various projects that come through my shop.
Hopefully you will give it another go.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Originally Posted by Old Croc

The secret to electrolysis is to constantly clean the anode. Once it gets coated with rust particles it stops working. I use this method all the time, but I use carbon arc gouging rods with their copper coating removed as my anodes as they are self cleaning.
Rgds,
Crocy.

I've always used electrolysis and agree with what you say. It's important to add enough washing soda to get it to work. I've got a nice big slab of 316 stainles steel I use as an anode because it's easier for me to keep clean.

I’m a big fan of Electrolysis.
a great article here
Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia Inc. - Rust Removal

All

I have used cleaning vinegar with excellent results. Does take a little while but is cheap as. My process was:

1. Remove any oils/waxes (rub down with a liberal amount of Metho and dry off)

2. Into the vinegar bath

3. Scrub with a green Scotch Brite pad a couple of times, helps remove any loose crud.

4. When it looks clean enough wash off with running water and dry. Immediately rub down with metho again and wax.

I have done jointer beds this way. If they go face down on spacers, not a lot of vinegar is required as it only the top face that needs to be treated.