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7th May 2020, 02:22 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Saw with a number stamped in the blade
Hi all. Looking more closely at one of the handsaws I have collected over the years I only just noticed that there is a number 8 stamped in the blade, at the heel of the saw, below the handle, medallion side. The medallion is the "warrranted superior" type with an eagle seperating the phrase. The handle is beech and has some " wheat?" carving on it. The saw blade is curved (breasted?) along the teeth edge and has a skew back. I haven't any photos yet nor started to restore (spent too long last night trying to make another jig to hold saws while sharpening and consequently didn't get any sharpening done)
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7th May 2020, 04:02 PM #2
MA
With the eagle WS medallion it is likely American so the number stamped in at the heel is the PPI (points per inch). At 8ppi it will be a crosscut saw. Paul Sellers has an easy device for saw sharpening. Just a batten with a kerf cut longitudinally nearly to the end. This is clamped into the jaws of your vice. I will see if I can find a link and add it later.
Regards
Paul
Edit: He has in fact devoted a whole video to this and is better than the one I had in mind when I wrote above. YouTubeBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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8th May 2020, 08:44 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Paul. Thanks, I was hoping you would see my thread. I was actually making PS jig only to realise, once finished, that in use, the guide block that my file is stuck in fouls on the work bench. PS is obviously skilled enough to shape and sharpen without such aids. I'm still on L plates
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8th May 2020, 09:46 AM #4
MA
I see the problem. There are some possibilities.
Firstly use the same style but use deeper timber to allow the jaws to protrude further above the bench. The problem here is that there is more timber to saw. Alternatively make the jig from three pieces and glue it together at the "solid" end.
The second option is to lower the handle on the file as you file. This will give you clearance on the bench side and sloped gullets on the saw.
The teeth will look, at first glance, irregular but the tooth height is in fact level (or should be). This is what the toothline will look like if you become as proficient as this guy.
Sloped gullets 1.jpgSloped gullets 2.jpg
The last option is to build a completely different vice
Handy Andy freestanding saw vice p1[46414].PNG
Handy Andy freestanding saw vice p2[46415].PNG
This style of vicewas the traditional one used by carpenters for a couple of hundred years probably. The diagram above is quite old.
A variation is something similar that can be clamped in your bench vice. The "legs: are made to suit whatever type of bench vice you have:
Saw vice.jpg
There is another example of this clamped vice but I can't locate it for the moment.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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8th May 2020, 10:05 AM #5
This is another type (not unlike my own device) by Lie Nielsen and made to fit in your vice.
Saw vice Lie Nielsen.jpg
I think you may need additional clamps at either end to tighten the saw plate effectively. The advantage with this one is that you can make it long enough to accommodate a full size saw and not have to keep shifting the saw along. This is a link to the build:
Close Grain: Building A Lie-Nielsen Saw Vise
In fact if you google "Saw Sharpening Vice" it will bring up more images than you can poke a stick at and you might get an idea of what will suit you. The only thing I would add is that ideally the vice should be quite rigid in itself, able to hold the saw without exhibiting any movement and be free from vibration as you file. This last one of course you will only find out when you start to file.
This one looked interesting too. Plans were $5.00
woodright saw vice.jpg
Saw Vice Plans — Wood By Wright
Regards
PaulLast edited by Bushmiller; 8th May 2020 at 10:13 AM. Reason: Added a link
Bushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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8th May 2020, 12:27 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Paul. Your info is great stuff. I had a look at the Lie Nielsen link and that looks like a real possibilty. At the moment I am using timber cauls in my engineers vise (bolted to a plate that gets clamped in my leg vise) and extra clamps as required. The LN idea would get the height up to a more comfortable spot. I can feel another jig coming along.
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12th May 2020, 10:31 AM #7
MA
You might like to see this video. It is a good one. Covers everything. In particular his saw vice (17m 25s mark) might be of interest. I made a version of this myself. Not unlike the Lie Nielsen vice but better.
YouTube
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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