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Thread: Stanley #3 Type 11 Restore
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16th August 2015, 12:10 PM #16
Cowboy, I have a particular like for #3, and so thank you for this thread. I posted a story on my website about "Bob's Stanley #3", which was the plane to get me started with handplanes about 20 years ago.
It did not require much restoration - not nearly like yours. A couple of years ago I gave it a new lease on life, and now it looks and feels great.
But much more importantly, I have tuned it, and now it works superbly, and on the most interlocked grain, such as we have in Western Australia. When you are done we can compare notes on tuning.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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16th August 2015, 01:19 PM #17
Derek, that plane is....Sweet...!
Notice you have upgraded the cap iron and the blade...PM V11 is a excellent choice.
Up graded a #5 with a set up just like yours...a interesting note..did a comparison test; stock blade and stock iron, stock iron with the Veritas cap iron
and finally Veritas blade and cap iron.
Of course the "all" Veritas set up won out, but have to say this the Veritas cap iron with the stock blade was real close, and I mean real close.
I think one of the best upgrades on a plane would be a after market cap iron, mated to the stock blade if it is in good shape.
You are right about the #3, on small to medium project, I find using a #3 a lot.
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16th August 2015, 04:01 PM #18Of course the "all" Veritas set up won out, but have to say this the Veritas cap iron with the stock blade was real close, and I mean real close.
Cowboy, that would not surprise me. Sharp is sharp. But that does not tell the full story.
Half the story is getting the blade sharp - how easy it is to get the back flat and well the bevel may be honed on your choice of media.
The other half of the story is how long the edge can be kept. West Australian woods, along with many other woods Australia-wide, have a high level of silica which is abrasive and dulls edges quickly. Many prefer steels such as A2 and HSS. I even have M4 and CPM-3V. Now PM-V11 is gaining ground (I have done a fair amount of steel assessments over the years). There is nothing wrong with good old Stanley carbon steel in planes (especially the laminated ones), but they will not last long (sometimes only a couple of passes with the plane) on some of our woods.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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16th August 2015, 04:11 PM #19
Cowboy. Have yet to watch the videos. Is that you in them or someone else ?
Also are you a Dave / David too?
Glad you shared this thread
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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16th August 2015, 05:05 PM #20
Dave
Those videos feature Daren Millman, who works for David Savage, an English furniture designer. Interestingly, this video on the chipbreaker was made in 2010, and it totally missed the issue of setting the chipbreaker. The video was all about mating the chipbreaker to the blade. That is important, but advanced tuning factors are (1) the angle at the leading edge (that was OK in the video as it was left standard, which is about 45 degrees), and then (2) the distance of the leading edge to the blade (that was completely ignored).
A better video is this one ..
... which is about setting the chipbreaker the necessary distance from the blade. Cowboy referred to this as "really close". In actual numbers (which will vary a smidgeon) it is 0.3 - 0.5mm (depending on the angle at the leading edge of the chipbreaker).
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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16th August 2015, 07:42 PM #21
Thanks Derek, I've found recent refference to chip breaker settings most enlightening.
I started my trade as a carpenter and joiner almost 30 yeard ago. At trade school they taught 2 to 3 mm set back. I ofteb wonderef why some older tradiies had theirs set to 1/2 mm or less. Ii aleays knew it as a cap ieon and was taught too give the mating edge one or two swioed o et tge stone each tome tge blade was sharpened
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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16th August 2015, 09:45 PM #22
Hello Dave,
Yes my name is David or Dave, but not the person in the video.
Derek did post a better video link, and there is more by that person, one should watch.
West Australian woods, along with many other woods Australia-wide, have a high level of silica which is abrasive and dulls edges quickly
PM V11 does last longer, and sharpening time is not to bad either.
I believe that was one of Stanley's selling point on there plane blade, which where thinner than the competition.
"Less time to sharpen".
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16th August 2015, 09:50 PM #23
Dave, you look like you know what you are doing. I'm looking forward to your tuning conclusions at the end.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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18th August 2015, 11:08 AM #24
Thanks Derek,
Tomorrow it is predicted to be below 110, maybe I will take advantage of the cool spell.
Probably can lap the sole, which is pretty straight & level already.
Iron is almost ready and the cap iron was done a few months ago.
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