Stanley No 7 Jointer Plane Redux

**Luke Maddux** · 28th April 2015, 11:51 PM

I've really been enjoying building my collection of hand tools organically as I find them on the vintage market. I've had some scores here and there. Usually, they just require knocking the rust off, oiling, etc. This one is different.

I found this on Gumtree. It's the same story you always hear. Guy's grandfather had died in 1975 and the plane, a type 13 (or 14) No 7 from the twenties, had been sitting in the shed since. FORTY YEARS this thing had been collecting rust. I'm 29, so that is a bit hard to imagine for me I guess.

Anyway, it was in rough shape. Lots of rust, some pitting, the japanning was corroded in parts, and the handle had been replaced with some kind of plywood which had delaminated years ago following an obvious replacement of the original, rosewood handle.

Needless to say, it needed a lot of work. But it met the three critical requirements which are 1. All the metal parts were there 2. The adjustment mechanism wasn't damaged and 3. there was no damage around the mouth.

Before:

IMG_1988.JPG IMG_1989.jpg IMG_1990.JPG IMG_1987.jpg

To knock the rust off of the large surfaces I used a nylon brush bit mounted in my lathe. I was a bit skeptical about this for a few reasons, but it worked fantastically, especially on the corrugated sole. This saved a lot of time and 240-grit sandpaper.

IMG_1991.JPG

I then made a new tote and knob. The knob was an easy turn-job. The tote, however, was my first genuine attempt at shaping a handle by hand. My hand-stitched rasps are still a couple of purchases away, so I went against my best judgement and bought a $20 set of rasps from Mitre 10. Incredibly crap-nanimous, but they worked I guess. I got the shape right on the first try, but it actually took me four handle blanks to get it to fit right. In the end, it was my process that was flawed. Lesson learned. I used New Guinea Rosewood (Pterocarpus indicus). A good choice I think.

I also taped up the metal parts and sprayed it with some matte black automotive engine enamel. I was really happy with how it turned out.

IMG_1998.JPG IMG_1995.jpg IMG_1997.JPG

But does it cut wood...? I sharpened the blade, lapped it a bit, and set to work. It's great! I really dig the corrugated sole. I've read it's a gimmick but I genuinely believe that it reduces friction and makes a noticeable diffenence. Maybe it's placebo.

Anyway, the last time this plane cut shavings, John Lennon was making records, the USSR was a thing, and you could still get away with wearing plaid bell-bottoms, so we've definitely come a long way...

IMG_1994.jpg

More to come soon. I think my next big restoration will be a similar series of changes to my No 3.

Cheers,
Luke

**Glenn.Visca** · 29th April 2015, 02:57 AM

Nice job !

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

**Luke Maddux** · 29th April 2015, 05:58 PM

Originally Posted by Glenn.Visca

Nice job !

Cheers, Glenn. I had hoped to get it looking as nice as your recent #6 without having to paint. No such luck.

**doug3030** · 29th April 2015, 06:14 PM

Originally Posted by Luke Maddux

The tote, however, was my first genuine attempt at shaping a handle by hand.

Hi Luke,

Would this have helped?

https://www.leevalley.com/us/html/16j4010k.pdf

And I think NG Rosewood is an excellent choice.

Cheers

Doug

**Luke Maddux** · 29th April 2015, 06:17 PM

Originally Posted by doug3030

Hi Luke,

Would this have helped?

https://www.leevalley.com/us/html/16j4010k.pdf

And I think NG Rosewood is an excellent choice.

Cheers

Doug

Wow, that's great! It's very close to exactly what I did. I used a round rasp instead of drilling the radii of the curves, and I don't have a drill press (which was the undoing of two of my handle blanks), but having that would still have been a huge help.

Thanks!

**doug3030** · 29th April 2015, 08:47 PM

Originally Posted by Luke Maddux

Wow, that's great! It's very close to exactly what I did. I used a round rasp instead of drilling the radii of the curves, and I don't have a drill press (which was the undoing of two of my handle blanks), but having that would still have been a huge help.

I have never used my drill press when doing plane totes (or saw handles for that matter). I cut them out on my 14' bandsaw with a 1/4 blade.

Also you do not need to follow the outline of the tote exactly. I have big hands so I tend to like the totes a bit longer and countersink the hole for the nut to the length given on the pattern, so it fits the hardware that comes with the plane. The physical limit to how high you can go is to just leave enough room between the top of the tote and the plane iron to allow for adjustments etc.

Cheers

Doug

**Luke Maddux** · 29th April 2015, 11:09 PM

Originally Posted by doug3030

I have never used my drill press when doing plane totes.

Doug,

How do you ensure that the hole through which you will mount the handle is exactly straight through the blank? This was a major issue for me. I got it exactly right the first time and then blew it twice in a row after I accidentally broke that tote.

(P.S. does the 3030 in your name have anything to do with the album? probably not...)

Thanks for the help.

Cheers,
Luke

**doug3030** · 30th April 2015, 12:20 AM

Originally Posted by Luke Maddux

Doug,

How do you ensure that the hole through which you will mount the handle is exactly straight through the blank? This was a major issue for me. I got it exactly right the first time and then blew it twice in a row after I accidentally broke that tote.

(P.S. does the 3030 in your name have anything to do with the album? probably not...)

Thanks for the help.

Cheers,
Luke

Hi Luke,

When I said I do not use my drill press, I was referring to the cutting out stage. I do use it for drilling the the hole through the blank

. Sorry if that confused things.

You said you do not have a drill press but I will elaborate further for others who may be interested.

With a fence on the drill press approximately the height of the blank (as from the link I posted) while it is still square and the hole is perpendicular to two of the ends, I clamp the blank onto the fence, ensuring it is perfectly centered (very important). With a bit about 2/3 - 3/4 of the size of the required finished hole, I drill a short way into the blank from one end. I then unclamp the blank and spin it through 180 degrees and clamp it back onto the fence, ensuring that the drill bit is in the hole just created as the clamp goes on. I then make the hole a bit deeper and rotate the blank back to the original position. I repeat that sequence until the hole is just over half way through the blank, then turn the blank upside down and drill in from the other end until the two holes meet in the middle. The reversing every 5 - 10 mm minimises any runout of the bit although it may still drift with the grain. Take it slowly and carefully or you might ruin the blank and have to start again. A classic case of slower being faster.

I then put in the drill bit of the required finished hole and repeat the process. You can usually drill a bit deeper each time than when the pilot hole was made provided the pilot hole looks pretty straight, otherwise, slow and steady. Check that the bolt fits in the hole before going any further.

Out of curiousity, how did you drill yours without a drill press?

Cheers

Doug

PS: What album?

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