Thread: Stenner ABM Table Saw Restoration

Hi Camo, I've been watching this post with great interest,and just want to say what a great job you are doing. I saw this machine when it was on ebay,and am very pleased it has landed in good hands. Keep up the good work and the pics.Cheers Greg

WoW Camo is that a fantastic saw or what, you are doing a fabulous job it just keep's getting better and better the paint scheme looks brilliant.
Regards Rod.

Camo

If you look up the specs for the bearings online you will find that there is no difference in the load specs between the 6203 & 88503 (about 455kg basic static load) and the 6202 & 88016 (about 354kg basic static load).

Assuming there's no mechanical reliance on the extended innner rings (other than to provide spacing), I see no reason that you couldn't use the 62XX series with suitable washers. However....

Suggest you might be able to find lower cost 88XXX bearings online, even imported. AUD is high and package size would be small and hence relatively cheap to ship.

Given the effort you've gone to so far, and this machine will have a loooong life, 88XXX would be my first choice...

Regards
John

Greg and Rod,

Thank you so much for your kind words, I just hope I haven’t been too slow with it. Greg I have to admit you scared me a little when you did your original post about it being available on eBay, I thought damn now I have no chance….but I guess I was the only crazy person who would buy a saw with no hand wheels a busted switch, that looked like someone took it out the back and beat it up with a baseball bat.

John,

I think you are right about going with the 88XXX bearings. After some serious though I ended up doing exactly what you had suggested (I just didn’t want to do a second rate job of it, especially as these bearings will determine the accuracy of the sliding table). I have one lot of bearings coming from England and the others from the US.

I would have liked to buy from Australia, but after trying about 6 bearing places (including Sydney), I just couldn’t find them at a rate that came anywhere near buying overseas (it was less than half the best quote). In the end the bearings will cost me just a bit more than buying the 62XX bearings from Australia, and no messing around trying to make spacers. The only downside is that it will probably take about 3 weeks.

I spent some of today placing the motor back in the table. I decided to paint the outer bell housings red, to make the motor spin faster. I forgot to add pictures of the motor appart and cleaned so here they are:

DSCF1043.jpgDSCF1039.jpgDSCF1040.jpgDSCF1042.jpgDSCF1038.jpg

For those who remember I had a bit of a challenge working out how the front bearing was supposed to come off. I had both bearings replaced, and everything professionally cleaned and baked, so it should be good for another 60 years (or probably a lot longer as I think she will have an easier life from now on). Fortunately apart from the front bearing collapsing there was absolutely no wear to this motor, but it was lucky I decided to pull it apart, because the previous owner had pumped so much grease in that the resistance between the coils and the body was very low, but now that it has been cleaned and baked it is back up to infinity.

Some pictures of the motor back in the saw:

motor in 4.jpgmotor in 1.jpgmotor in 2.jpgmotor in 5.jpgmotor in 3.jpg

The only thing I didn't repaint was the motor plate. For some reason I prefer to leave motor plates and machine plates as they were unless they are really bad, I kind of prefer them to show there age a bit.

Next challenge is painting the table top. This will be a challenge mainly because it probably weighs as much as nearly the rest of the machine combined.

Cheers,

Camo

Originally Posted by camoz

In the end the bearings will cost me just a bit more than buying the 62XX bearings from Australia, and no messing around trying to make spacers. The only downside is that it will probably take about 3 weeks.

That's the upside Camoz.....you just found 3 weeks to get other fun stuff done !!!

Very happy to hear you've chosen the original 88XXX bearings....entirely complimentary to the beautiful work you have done on this saw.

John

I love the colour combination, It reminds me of something from star wars. And rather menacing. Your nearly their.
Mark

Originally Posted by wallace1973

I love the colour combination, It reminds me of something from star wars. And rather menacing. Your nearly their.
Mark

My solicitors have asked me to release the following statement: "All Table Saws appearing in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to anything relating to Star Wars or Star Wars related merchandise is purely coincidental (I have heard George Lucas can be very litigious).

John, I definitely feel better about going with the correct bearings, I think in the scheme of things the extra cost will be irrelevant

Hi all,

One set of bearings have now arrived from the US, just waiting on the ones coming from the UK. The other day I managed to get the main table completed and back on.

Below some pictures, an interesting thing I found when cleaning the table (or at least for me) was an oval impression in the table top next to the machine number which shows the word Stenner (and then I think Stenner mirrored again, but it is hard to tell as it isn't a deep impression) other stamped numbers was a number 1 and a number 2 at each end of the mitre slot:

P1020863.jpgP1020861.jpgP1020862.jpgP1020860.jpgstenner stamp on table top.jpg

Cheers,

Camo

Camoz - I think the oval stamp is a QC inspectors mark...looks to me like the bottom curved text reads INSPECTION or INSPECTOR
John

Hi all,

I am nearly at the stage that the sliding table will be reunited with the rest of the table saw, and this has made me start thinking about alignment. Having taken the table off the base removed the sliding table, replaced the bearings and in the process removed every cam style bearing roller for the sliding table, removed the motor, removed the motor shaft, replaced the motor bearings……etc. etc., I can definitely confirm I am starting from scratch.

I figured it might be a smart move to ask how others have tackled this (I was satisfied with the results I have got on my Wadkin BGP, but I feel that had more to do with beginners luck than anything else).

Cheers,

Camo

Hi Camo, here is one way,

I own a pair of these which I like very much .

Magswitch® MagJigs : CARBA-TEC

I did not buy them for this purpose , I just discovered they worked for me doing this job.

I got most of this from a Wadkin brochure . exept the magnets.

Your job sounds complex ,but if it is just aligning the Table top with the blade, this is what I did . With the blade fully raised, I had a steel straight edge wresting up against the edge of two of the opposite sides of my tungsten blade on the teeth.

When it was spot on I put one of these magnets down at each end, this locked the straight edge down tight.
I could then measure from the straight edge to the machined Chanel in the table top with my dial indicator caliper at the start and end of the table, the longer the better. I got it down to between 2 or 3 / 100ths of a millimeter over the length of the table.

I would have to take off the straight edge, tap the table across, re set and measure, get it right, tighten the nuts , find it had moved and start all over , as well, like I said ,the nuts were up inside ,and the tightening kept shifting the top. Got it to where I was happy though.

I noticed yours look to be on the outside of the body,Nice.

What A great restoration you have been doing on a work of art as well Thanks for showing it off.

Rob

Hi all,


Well the temperature has finally dropped a bit, and I took the opportunity (thanks to the help of my wife, and the engine hoist) to put the sliding table back on.

The table slides on 8 vertical bearings and is guided by 6 horizontal bearings, which ride against machined surfaces on the underside of the sliding table.

sliding table underside.jpgSliding table bearings.jpg

The table has a stop front and back which hits a spring stopper, preventing the table from sliding all the way off. Once in place two bolts hold the sliding table support in place and when loosened the table can be slide in and out away from the blade (to enable easy blade change, and also to allow for stacked blades). On the side of the support are two adjustable stops to ensure easy return to original position.

Sliding table support.jpg

Two items that have caused much debate in the shed, are the 3 brass pins in the table (initially thought to be later additions), with the luck of finding another ABM for sale in the UK several months back, that has now been shipped to the Congo, the owner was nice enough to take some extra photos for me and answer any comparison questions. His saw has the same 3 brass pins, so I now think they are likely to be something to do with locating pins for the missing quadrant.

sliding table attached.jpgsliding table attached2.jpg

The second debatable item, and the one that I am most interested in, are the machined sections on the front and back support arms coming off the main table and the fact that they each have two threaded holes with bolts (again initially the bolts were thought to have been added later, but the one in the UK is exactly the same).

I am wondering if maybe a zero clearance insert was available. I have looked at photos of the PK, but do not see any similar bolts, but I would imagine that you would need something to fill the gap when using the stacked cutters.

Even when the sliding table is close to the fixed table there is at least a 20mm clearance between the machined surface and the bottom of the sliding table so the bolts do not seem to be designed to interact with the table in any way.

If anyone has any information about these two items, I would love to know (if nothing else it may settle some 20 cent bets).

Regardless, I think I will look into constructing some sort of zero clearance using these bolts, but at this stage I have not really decided on any particular design.

Next step is aligning everything (Rob thanks for your suggestion and Mark for replying to my PM regarding the PK sliding table alignment). The table slides very smoothly, but I can already tell it is going to be a really tedious process to initially align.

Cheers,

Camo

Hi Camo,
The saw is looking great, trust me the alignment of any sliding table is tedious to align a half a turn here a quater turn there and then repeat all the way along the bed and back again then start again. Take the time it is tedious but the only way to get it right best of luck you will get it right first go.
Regards Rod.

Hi Camo, does your saw have the facility to have wood strips either side of the blade, running the full length of each table. The Pk does, they are just screwed on and on mine I just pushed the tables together and then strated the saw and raised the blade through them giveing me a zero clearance.


Mark

Originally Posted by wallace1973

Hi Camo, does your saw have the facility to have wood strips either side of the blade, running the full length of each table. The Pk does, they are just screwed on and on mine I just pushed the tables together and then strated the saw and raised the blade through them giveing me a zero clearance.


Mark

Mark,

My apologies for the delay in response, havn't had the chance to double check everything and didn't want to respond without checking first.

I am assuming from the photos that the table on the PK has a lip on both tables that the timber strips attach to. The Stenner does not seem to have any way of attaching a timber strip directly to the tables (the fixed table has a slight indent to accommodate the blade, but no threaded holes, and the underside of the sliding table is tapered).

The more I look it, the more I am convinced that this is how I will be adding a zero clearance.

Cheers,

Camo