Thread: Stenner ABM Table Saw Restoration

Originally Posted by pmcgee

I'll just mention that I did this on the Daenckart that I have, but to be able to lean the blade over I had to drop the blade, change angle then raise it through the insert again. Then the insert wasn't so 'zero' clearance any more.

Maybe that's common sense to most people, but I had to be playing around with it to figure it out.

I suspect if you just bring the blade up through an insert, you can't then lay the blade over with the blade raised. Part of the insert is in the way until it gets cut away by raising the blade at that angle.

Cheers,
Paul

Hey Paul,

I have been thinking about that issue, I think I might end up making an insert for the length of the table, but adding a smaller insert plate (that way I can change the smaller section when cutting at an angle rather than changing the whole lot).

I guess whatever I do it will just be a case of playing around with it, as I will not be modifying the table in any way.

Any chance of some pictures of what you did (might help the brain juices flow)?

Cheers,

Camo

Nothing I've ever said got anyone's brain working *better* ...

had a few complete blow-outs ...

Mine doesn't have the cutout section to set the blade in a bit, and the area available for attaching the strip is good in front, but quite a bit back behind.

So after originally having a strip past the blade that I raised the blade through vertically ... I ended up with this - after realising the tilt-over issue.

Cheers,
Paul

daenckart 001.jpg daenckart 002.jpg daenckart 003.jpg

Originally Posted by pmcgee

Nothing I've ever said got anyone's brain working *better* ...

had a few complete blow-outs ...

Mine doesn't have the cutout section to set the blade in a bit, and the area available for attaching the strip is good in front, but quite a bit back behind.

So after originally having a strip past the blade that I raised the blade through vertically ... I ended up with this - after realising the tilt-over issue.

Cheers,
Paul

daenckart 001.jpg daenckart 002.jpg daenckart 003.jpg

Paul,

Thanks for posting the pictures, I need all the help I can get sometimes.

Cheers,

Camo

Hi all,

I was talking via PM to another member today, who pointed out that Sagar made a sliding table saw (I would say who I was speaking to, but they might not like me talking about them).

He pointed me in the direction of this item currently listed on UK ebay Circular Thru Feed Saw by Sagar, 400mm Blade Diameter Angular Adjustment, | eBay.

As these things often end in dead links this is a snapshot of the photo and mine beside, with a diagram of how mine should look:

Sagar sliding table saw.jpgstenner.jpgdiagram 2.jpg

(I apologise for the terrible photo quality of mine, very rainy day today and bad light, but for the purposes of comparison I think it will work)

It is described as "SAGAR Model M6164 AFN, serial number lt9322 Circular Thru Feed Saw Angular Adjustment Emergency Stop. 400mm dia blade"

So I have never been great at spot the difference, but these are the things I have noticed:

* sliding table support is different, Stenner has support arms incorporated as part of the main table (which I think the Wadkin PK has), Sagar has the support coming from the base of the machine (which I think the Wadkin PP has).

* The location of the hand wheels really interest me, the top handle seems to be in a similar height to the Stenner, which might suggest the same gearbox setup for the blade tilt (the PK sits lower down almost in line with the height adjustment wheel).

* square edged mitre grove (or is it, it's a bit hard to tell from the angle of the photo), doesn't look like it has a mitre slot on the sliding table (or it has a very well fitted insert).

* Looks like half of a quadrant on the pallet.

Obviously there are other things to be observed, so please feel free to point some out (like I said I really suck at this game), but I thought I would get this posted and see what information might be available about this saw. Does anyone have one, know more about them, seen other photos of one, etc.

Cheers,

Camoz

Camo, I only have the very early J.Sagar catalogues and had trouble finding any thing this late for you, but I did find this in a much later 1955 catalog just when J.Sagar owned Bursgreen and the Wadkin takeover was just around the corner, I believe the machine you show would be from the 1940's perhaps.

Melbourne Matty.

Matty,

Thanks for trying to track down info for me. Below are some more photos of the Sagar giving some different angles, it definitely seems to be in the same family as the Stenner ABM. I have googled every combination I can imagine, but I can't find anything else about it.

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Cheers,

Camo

Hi all,

Well, last week was exciting to say the least, had a bit of a dumb moment trying to test the motor, (now that things are back together and the replacement switch has been added). I discovered there is a reason that the contactor is mounted horizontally and not vertically (a little thing called gravity).

Thankfully no damage done, and the good news is the motor is verrrry smooth and quite. I will be looking to order a new blade on Monday and will do a YouTube video to hopefully demonstrate the lack of vibration and noise, once I have it fitted, hopefully by the end of next week.


This brings me to my question. I was hoping someone could help me with confirming what spanner I need for the arbor nut. I measured it at approximately 42.4mm and from google, I think it is 1 Whitworth or 1 1-8 BSF, does this sound right?

Also if anyone has an orphan spanner looking for a machine, that they would be interested in selling, I would be interested.

Cheers,

Camo

Hi camo,
Glad to hear no damage, can't wait to see and hear this beauty in action. Sorry I can't help with the spanner but surely there must be plenty out there I shall ask around.
Regards Rod.

Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert

Hi camo,
Glad to hear no damage, can't wait to see and hear this beauty in action. Sorry I can't help with the spanner but surely there must be plenty out there I shall ask around.
Regards Rod.

Hi Rod,

Decided to do a quick preview video for you (an “Australian Coin Test” I suppose you could call it, I don’t have any foreign coins to test with, and without the 18” blade on, it is probably not a valid test anyway). I used a $2,$1,50c,20c & 10c. The 10c piece was the best I could find in my wallet, but it still took a lot of time to get it to initially stand up (fat fingers). Hopefully it gives a bit of an idea of the lack of noise and vibration of this table saw, I imagine the blade will add a bit of noise, but I will do another video when I receive the new blade and can track down a 1 ¼ BSF Spanner.

IMG_0032 - YouTube

Just editing this post to add two more videos (coin test - YouTube & coin test 2 - YouTube) a test done with a 5 and 10c piece (finally managed to work out how to one on end for the test). I also did a second video with the coins on the sliding table just to see if any vibration was being transferred through to it. Obviously it still needs the blade, which could make a difference, but I am very impressed so far with it.

I will be calling some of the second hand machinery merchants tomorrow, in the hope that they have some spanners laying around (from machines that got scrapped), but I had a lot of problems last time, when I was looking for hand wheels (I got a lot of no's, or we keep them if we find them, until I stumbled upon a merchant who was ready to offload, as he had obviously got to the stage where he had more than he needed).

I was hoping someone at this end of the forum might have one laying around (well actually two laying around, one they don’t need), usually when I collect an old machine, I usually end up with a lot of other parts given to me that do not relate to the machine. I have collected a few orphan spanners, but unfortunately none of them are the right size.
I know I will probably come across one this size as soon as I don’t need it.

Cheers,

Camo

Hey camo,

Nice to hear your voice, that is one smooth stenner saw indeed.

In regards to a spanner, why not make one ? or if you have a local laser cutter, do a pattern and get one cut out, I think you would be suprised how cheep it is these days, just a thought !

Looking forward to seeing a blade in there and a video of the stenner cutting, yea, now were talking !!

Melbourne Matty.

Well today I ordered the new blade, they actually had one in stock, but I need to get the centre bore changed to 1 1/4 inch, plus add the hole for the locking pin. Should be ready tomorrow, but unfortunately I probably won't get to pick it up for about a week.

Matty thanks for the idea regarding the spanner. I am no metal worker, but I figured it couldn't hurt to have a go. Below is the start of the process (it will be the best spanner I have ever made, but probably only because it is the only one I have made, but hopefully it does the job).

photo 1.jpg photo 2.jpg

I went to the scrap metal yard, and the guy had this laying around (total cost $2). It is 12mm thick and I am going for a ring spanner design to give it more support, the hole is too big, but I decided this was a good thing (as I can fill the centre to make the hexagon, but have the integrity of the solid circle of steel).


Cheers,

Camo

Well done Camo, that ring design was exactly what I was thinking, and I think Altendorf Panel saw's use a similar spanner.

Necessity is the Mother of invention !

Melbourne Matty.

Hi guys,

Well it has been probably 5 months since I have been able to do much in relation to the table saw, (as they say plenty of reasons, no excuses, but I have not been well and it has prevented me from being able to get out into the workshop).

Reading back I had plans to do a video of the saw cutting some timber, but before that happens I need to get the fence, guards and hand wheels sorted, I don't think it is a good idea to start playing around without the proper safety gear attached (450mm blade could do some serious damage in a hurry).

I have the blade and have installed it and given it a bit of a test run (not cutting, another coin test, which was successful, but it is definitely noisier with the blade on, nothing sinister, I just didn't anticipate the impact a blade cutting the air would make, but then I am used to a 12" table saw and I have put on a ripping blade).

Today I managed to get the hand wheels painted (they are drying to I will post some pictures later with them fitted to the saw), and also completed the assembly of the fence.

front.jpg back.jpg


I am not sure if the photos quite show the scale of this thing (as fences go IMO it is very substantial), I haven't weighed it, but let's just say it isn't light and I don't think I will need to be worrying about it flexing.

To me the fence is really what makes this tablesaw shine (apart from the fact that the blade runs directly off the motor). It works by slotting into a channel that runs across the table and then once in position it can be locked into place, but the special part to the fence, is that once locked into position it can then be micro adjusted using the handle at the back. Once in place this micro adjuster can be locked into position making for a very sturdy fence.

Four depth stop bolts on the fence support enables the fence to be calibrated to the blade and table, and the fence can be adjusted forward or back down the table. Holes in the face of the fence allow for a sacrificial fence to be attached, and should it be needed the main fence can be adjusted off the table by a few inches.

back low.jpg

The fence can also be tilted to 45 degrees, and the front portion of the fence adjusted to meet the table. Stamped into the tilt mechanism is the degrees of incline, and at the back is a depth stop screw to quickly return the fence back to 90 degrees.

fence at 45.jpg

Well as you have probably guessed, I am in love with this fence and I haven't even had a chance to use it yet.

Next step is to attach the hand wheels (I got lucky and the hole it the correct size for the shaft, so I will only need to drill holes to take the tapered pins.

That just leaves the overhead guard, which has been dismantled ready to have the surface rust removed. The main overhead guard is cast aluminium, and someone has put it into the blade while it was running (so a section is missing at the back), can anyone give me any advice on how difficult it will be to have a piece of aluminium welded to it, is cast aluminium like cast metal or can I take it to basically anyone who knows how to weld aluminium?

Well I won't make any promises, but I hope to try to tackle more of it soon.

Cheers,

Cameron

I don't know if you saw this link before ... plenty of tablesaw Safety Hints to be picked up here ... starting at 5:28 ...