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Thread: Unknown 12" Jointer
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17th December 2013, 08:17 PM #16
Its such a great feeling of accomplishment when you bring home a neglected machine give it a clean up and grease, then fire it up. The way the heavy parts are cast is from a time when people "bothered" to make bits that were not only functional but had some graceful lines to there form. I have acquired a thicknesser and jointer (that turned out to be a Mason-LW Barker, after having it up and running for a few months, and a SCM Panel Saw. Yesterday I ran some very hard Sheoak through the thicknesser......and it smoothed down the boards quite happily. There is no substitute for heavy cast iron!!!
Paul, do keep us posted with the restoration. It will be great entertainment while sit in the shade and drinking Christmas CheerJust do it!
Kind regards Rod
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17th December 2013, 09:05 PM #17
I have to agree with you there Chambezio, also when you have finished and have forgotten how bad the condition it really was in and look at a photo of how it came in and get another sense of accomplishment.
When I move into my shed in April I'll be on the look out to save a jointer, thicknesser, and table saw from the scrapman.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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17th December 2013, 10:51 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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19th December 2013, 06:56 PM #19
Yes it is ... from my reading at least.
Interesting stuff ... this in particular ... Clamshell Cutterheads - VintageMachinery.org Knowledge Base (Wiki)
I had been looking at the iron 'wedge' in the picture and half mentally confusing it with the "gib" style arrangement ... and yet knowing something didn't add up.
Looking at the pics and the space in the "gullets" I wonder if it was originally using those little blades.
The ones on my square-head thicknesser are about 10mm thick by 40mm long.
There's talk online about stressed bolts letting go and bolts bottoming out before tensioning down properly.
It lools like the thread might be part of the head ... with these big three-point "nuts" that I'll have to make a spanner for.
I have a tiny idea of direct-driving the head ... more likely replacing with v-belt pulleys ... or easiest path finding or making some flat-belt.
Cheers,
Paul
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19th December 2013, 08:14 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Paul,
Having never seen one in the flesh, I was not sure, just looked like what I have seen before in pictures.
Regarding the flat-belt, I haven't personally looked for them before, but my understanding is Nylon flat belts are easily obtained (and I have seen write ups before on making leather belts if you want to go that way).
Either way, I am looking forward to seeing this machine come together.
Cheers,
Camo
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19th December 2013, 08:26 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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It's a great post, and I started out this way with cast iron tops, but I have to admit, that my approach now is an angle grinder with the thin brass bristle wire wheel, much much quicker, and I challenge anyone to tell the difference between the end results of the two approaches. Only disadvantage is the stuff that gets airborne (definitely an outside job, and respirator is a good idea).
Cheers,
Camo
A bit of safety for anyone wanting to give the angle grinder a go, make sure you are climbing into the table on the edges, do it the wrong way and the grinder will want to jump at you
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20th December 2013, 01:25 PM #22Senior Member
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Three point nuts
Paul -a great loooking machine
It seems to me that those nuts are designed to ensure that the bolt/stud shank passes concentrically and with clearance through the retaining cap, in an effort to ensure that no bending load is applied to the bolt.
If that is the case, I wouldn't be tempted to replace the nuts, and making a spanner to suit (as you propose) seems like a good idea to me
Purely speculation on my part.
Good luck with the restoration
John
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