Thread: wadkin bursgreen 10" table saw

I got up this morning, the sun was shining and it was nice and calm. I set up in the back yard and sprayed a coat of paint on the saw parts. The neighbors probably thought I was a bit odd considering what day it is/was.
The hammertone paint was very user friendly and I found it easy to spray on. I've found when spraying enamel it runs easy but the hammertone was very forgiving. The thicker the paint the better the dimpling effect and the couple of runs that appeared blended in.
I also found that by applying a first cost lightly and letting it dry for a few minutes a second heavier and final coat could then be applied. I am happy with the finished result.
Now to polish the rest of the metal parts and work out how to put it back together.

Originally Posted by jrock_au

I got up this morning, the sun was shining and it was nice and calm. I set up in the back yard and sprayed a coat of paint on the saw parts. The neighbors probably thought I was a bit odd considering what day it is/was.

What? Wednesday?
Understandable ... Wednesdays are pretty odd around here too.

Paul

Originally Posted by jrock_au

I think auscab had the same problem when he was pulling his ags10 apart, I was looking out for the elusive troublesome grub screw, but hadn't found it until now.

Thats not the screw I had trouble with. Your one looks to be no 103 in the left image.
My little bugger of a thing was no 59 in the second image. with this screw taken out no 63 slides out which allows the whole Trunnion Assembly to come out.

We learn the hard way when doing these projects. how many times have I re assembled a part of something I have fixed for the first time,then found Ive missed something or a part is the wrong way around, then have to take it apart again? just about every time I think. One of those Murphy's law things.

Rob

Originally Posted by jrock_au

I felt like a bit of an idiot when I picked up the main trunnion bracket which I busted the bolt in.... The reason it was so tight was because there was a grub screw holding it in there!!!
I think auscab had the same problem when he was pulling his ags10 apart, I was looking out for the elusive troublesome grub screw, but hadn't found it until now.
On the up side I've managed to get a coat of paint on the handles, looking forward to seeing them on the saw.

To save some money, you could drill it out and insert a helicoil.

I did up an ancient VW bug (1956) and had to do this on several components.

That was the part auscab, number 103. I could remember reading that you had a similar incident as I did. I won't forget it is there next time.
Evansisn, the helicoil was plan b, I figured I had to get a new bolt made the match the size head the original had. The fitter I took it to managed to get the broken piece out reasonable easy in the end by drilling it out and re tapping. When they started drilling it out was when they discovered the grub screw.

I've managed to piece the saw back together. The parts list in the manual was very helpful, I also has all the bolts and all other small bits labeled in zip lock bags.
I am still waiting for the main spindle to be finished by the fitter & turner, was hoping to have it by Christmas... He is replacing bearings, checking the flange for true and making a "special dado nut"
I also need to organise a new single phase motor. Do you think a 3hp would be big enough for this saw? The original was a 2hp 3phase (I still have this one but don't have 3ph in the shed)
I would still like to make a "blade guard" with a dust extraction port in it. My thinking is to get rid of the dust as close to the source as possible as opposed to letting it fall to the bottom of cabinet before getting sucked out. Would this be the best option?
I would also like to get a cover made for the area where the motor hangs out.

... Looks like I've rebuilt it on its side....

Originally Posted by jrock_au

I am still waiting for the main spindle to be finished by the fitter & turner, was hoping to have it by Christmas... He is replacing bearings, checking the flange for true and making a "special dado nut"

Good idea , I had a time getting mine apart. With checking flange for true , is that done before it is re assembled, with the spindle in a lathe ,
or after assembly with the new bearings in, before it goes back in the machine ?

Originally Posted by jrock_au

I also need to organise a new single phase motor. Do you think a 3hp would be big enough for this saw? The original was a 2hp 3phase (I still have this one but don't have 3ph in the shed)

They came with 2 HP and 3 HP so it's big enough , I switched mine to 3 HP and it's good . I prefer ripping all my thick cuts on My band saw, but it's not as straight a cut . The wadkin with the 3 HP for ripping through 80mm thick hardwoods like Oak and Jarrah is great , it powers straight through .[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by jrock_au

I would still like to make a "blade guard" with a dust extraction port in it. My thinking is to get rid of the dust as close to the source as possible as opposed to letting it fall to the bottom of cabinet before getting sucked out. Would this be the best option?I would also like to get a cover made for the area where the motor hangs out.

If you do it like in the link you put up on page 1

Wadkin dust extraction mods: December 2006 .

yes that looks good . with a good job you probably wouldn't need the door to cover the motor.You would want to be able to clear it with ease though. These sorts of things do seem to get blocked anyway.
As you probably know , you need at least two inserts for the table top for the blade to come through, one for the blade to come through with the blade at 90 degrees to the table top, with zero clearance either side .
And another insert to be able to handle the canting blade. With my saw the canting insert gets left in sometimes and we go on using it for 90 degree cuts , the larger gap allows longer slithers of wood through which clogs the extraction at the first bend. A pain in the but , but with the door I can reach in and clear it .


I did some nice inserts for my saw by two packing some 2 or 3mm ?? Aluminium sheet down onto some Oak . they get fitted and polished then the blade is raised up through them. I used to have a zero clearance insert for my other saw ,set at 5 degrees for doing the angle on the underside of a drawer bottom. For this saw I made a jig that holds the drawer bottom over on a 5 degree angle, and another jig that holds the bottom up against the jig and so fingers are safely out of the way as well. A picture would describe it better, I'm struggling with the description here.

Rob

Rob, the saw's spindle as I understand will be checked for true while it is apart, without bearings etc. He was going to check it while it was between centres on the lathe. I will check it again when it is back in the saw too.
The aluminum on the ply packing and zero clearance for the insert sounds like a good idea. The existing one is far from zero clearance and has a bow in it. A new one would fix both issues.

I've spent a bit of time today flattening the table top. From what I could work out the whole top including the wings was concave across the width. Without measuring it was a bit under 1mm. Down the length was spot on.
To start with I've shimmed the wings with a few bits of paper (probably not the ideal material but worked). This resulted in high spots at the joins of the wings and a low spot at blade opening/hole. After a good hour or more of sanding with 80g wet and dry I think I am getting somewhere. At the front of the table I can get 2 pieces of writing paper under the straight edge and in the middle and back only one piece of paper fits under, just. I measured the paper at 0.1mm
At this point I was wondering how flat does the top need to be? Would 0.1mm affect joint cutting or setting the blade blade to square?

I think within .1 sould be ok ,Perfect would be better and you only have .1 more to take off . It's
just a roughing out tool most of the time. All the saw marks get removed any way .

One thing that is important is that those machined slots in the top are as close as possible parallel to the blade
and that your rip fence is as well. In those slots for some realy nice cutting of accurate work I use cross cutting sleds,
Have you ever used them? One of these for your fine work will cancel out the .1 difference possibly.

I just noticed a lever on the front my saw does not have , what does it do ?
I put a red arrow to it.

I think I will persist a bit more with flattening, like you say prefect would be best and I think I can get it closer.
I have only used panel saws for cross cutting and this will be my first cabinet style saw. I am looking forward to making a sled for cross cutting. I can see many advantages, and as you point out one of them being it will help fix any irregularities of the table top.

Originally Posted by auscab

I just noticed a lever on the front my saw does not have , what does it do ?
I put a red arrow to it.

The lever on the front is a hand brake for the main spindle. I haven't reinstalled it yet, it needs a new cable made as the original has perished. It has a padded band that wraps around a part at the back of the main spindle.from memory it could be part of the pulley. What do you think the chances of the "padding" on the being asbestos based?
I assume that the the brake is factory done? As the slot for the handle is very neat and the other parts don't seem to be added on. Although the parts list doesn't show any of the brake set up.

A Brake, that would be handy for when you are doing lots of repetitious cuts where the saw has to be turned off between each one , as well as boosting safety .
Plenty of times have I been cutting things , something goes wrong and the saw has to be turned off and the work held while waiting for the saw to stop .

It's possible that band does have asbestos in it , I would be ringing around and asking someone who knows what they are talking about.

The latest sled I use has the two typical fences front and back , I also built a box that slides within them that slides up to the blade from the right side or the left if I want . This is another fence I can clamp work to or nail / screw jigs to to hold whatever Im cutting . I did a job where I had to cut tenons on the end of an S shaped piece . I had plenty of them to do as well , 12 S shapes = 24 left and right shoulders and 24 left and right cheeks . The sled made it an easier job. A brake would have been good.

Rob

I have had experience with about a dozen of these saws both English and Oz made and have never seen a brake.
One Oz made had a braked motor but I've never seen a hand brake as such.
Not sure that a hand brake would be that effective in a jam or similar occurrence?
You may have both hands occupied.
I converted the hand brake on the 36 inch DR Wadkin bandsaw at work to a foot brake and thereafter used it all the time to stop the blade, I never used the handbrake as it was inaccessible and needed a lot of force to work.
H.