Thread: wadkin bursgreen 10" table saw

Over the weekend I have got the main spindle back into the saw. It was a 'firm' fit to get the spindle and bearings back into it's hosting. Once it was mounted back on the trunnion the spindle took a little more persuasion (hammer and block of wood) to get the saw blade in line with the riving knife.
I've also started working on the dust extraction. It is a tight fit to get a 'shroud' around the blade, allowing for the the blade to tilt, rise/fall and still get a hose onto it. From what I can work out the best size hose I can get in is a 63 (2 1/2"), the red spray paint lid is close to the size needed. Would this be better having a smaller hose mounted in the shroud, close you the blade or a larger hose mounted to a hopper in the bottom of the saw? I also thought I would run a second small hose to a new crown guard.

It has been a long time coming, but today I finally got to switch the machine on. I have put a new 3hp Weg single phase motor into the machine. The original motor was 2hp 3 phase. I still have to get 3 new pulleys, I've waited to get these untill the motor was on just incase they didn't fit. The guy who sold me the motor suggested putting some sort of overload protection into the wiring, but then went on to say that it would cost around the same price as the motor. Has anyone had any experience with this? And wouldn't the fuse built into the motor offer some protection?

Originally Posted by jrock_au

The guy who sold me the motor suggested putting some sort of overload protection into the wiring, but then went on to say that it would cost around the same price as the motor. Has anyone had any experience with this? And wouldn't the fuse built into the motor offer some protection?

I don't know what sort of setup would cost so much ... ?

I'm guessing your motor has some sort of amp- or temperature-related cut-out switch.

I got a single phase air comp from Supercheap ($600 down to $300 ) and it seems to have the same setup as the previous compressor I had mucked around with and put a chinese motor onto ... a $5-looking (if that) black push-button that is connected to a single phase.

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When I was getting my thicknesser working it had an old manual Star-Delta starter in a metal box ... I'm forgetting the brand on it ... and I bought this DirectOnLine (DOL) 3-phase mag switch for it (5-8amps, about $25-40??) after hearing that a modern Star-Delta would cost me about $1000. It has over-current protection built in.

In fact - I chose the amp rating based on what the thicknesser should be drawing when running - forgetting about the process of getting it up to speed! So when I connected it, it kept cutting out after only 5 seconds ... and it probably takes about 20 seconds to get up to speed.

So the thicky currently just has a throw-switch, and the DOL starter was perfect for my morticer.

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There's plenty of info on them and the like ...
http://www.energeia.gr/files/technical/LE1M35.pdf
document-detail
http://download.schneider-electric.c...8_01A55-10.pdf

There was a more expensive one with replaceable internals ... I'm thinking that one was maybe $160 ... so maybe I paid $60-$80 for mine?

Was he referring to some sort of soft-start line-monitoring thing??

Cheers,
Paul

Thanks for the information Paul. I have a mag switch that looks similar to the one in your picture on a buzzer that is going to be replaced. It may be more suited on the table saw.
There is every chance that I did misunderstand the salesman, he could have said that the overload protection might save me the cost of a new motor.... He may have mislead me in this instance too.

It's been a while, but I have finally got around to getting the 'dust shroud' made and had the chance to put it in over the weekend. It fitted as I hoped it would, and am able to adjust blade up/down, tilt without the shroud hitting any of the cabinet or top. It should be wide enough to let a set of dado's to be used. It is fixed in by the original bolts from the blade defector and by a new bolt tapped into the back of the trunnion. Next thing on the list is to get some 2 1/2" hose and a couple of adaptors to hook it to the dusty. I would also like to make a new crown guard to also take a dust hose. I'm not sure wether to copy original or try make one with sides that adjust up when timber is pasted through.
I have fitted a new timber blade insert, which is a lot neater fit around the blade.

Nice job. I have a Wadkin AGS 10 with a sliding table that I will be restoring. Rather than buying a new fence I will be milling out some extruded aluminium to replace the pressed steel fence. All other hardware will be original. I am fortunate to have 3 phase in my garage so no need to change the motor single phase. SInce running 3 phase machines I have become hooked. The torque and smoothness is noticable.

Paul.

Hi Paul,
I would like 3ph, but couldn't justify it in my small shed. Maybe in the next shed...
I would be interested in seeing work in progress photos of your Ags,
Joel

I have just found this link to am aftermarket crown guard, it is what I had in mind to replace the original guard. http://www.thesharkguard.com/sharkwadkin.php
I think I will have a go at replicating something similar, if not I'll have to buy one.

I have made a modest start to making a new crown guard. I should be able to use the original riving knife. I will make to final guard out of polycarbonate.

It has taken a while to get around to it, but I have set up a hose and outlet to connect to a dust extraction system. It should work a treat.

Watching with interest
John

My latest addition to the saw is something simple, but should make using the saw so much easier to use. After discovering that the tape that came with the fence was inaccurate I had to find an alternative, which came in the form of a steel rule riveted to the fence's front rail.
I'm much happier.

I don't want to make anyone cry, but...

I'm hoping to buy a bandsaw from a crowd who are downsizing. I might not get it as there's some asbestos in the building it's in - to complicate matters.

However, while I was there I was asked if I wanted a Wadkin tablesaw. It was in a different building, and the guy didn't have time to show it to me right then and there, so it's sight unseen. But the guy assured me its sliding table travelled as smooth as silk. He said it had (and may still have) extension tables allowing an 8' x 4' sheet to be cut easily. It's going for a song.

I turned it down - I just don't have the room (yeah I know - I want to cry too).

Cheers, Vann.

Edit: Just for the record, I ended up buying both the bandsaw (a Preston Woodworking Machinery Ltd 30" No.132) and the tablesaw (a Wadkin PK). But I don't want to hijack this thead.

Bandsaw: Preston Bandsaw
Tablesaw: https://forum.canadianwoodworking.co...in-pk-marooned

Just starting out reassembling my saw in the new workshop.
It's an older version with round fence rails.
Previously the fence was a pig to keep square, I am thinking seriously about replacing it with a Carbatec Besemeyer style but at over $400 I was wondering if anyone else has done this and did it improve accuracy?

thanks

Chris

Hobart