Thread: Wadkin Bursgreen tilting Arbor AGS 10" table Saw

Looking forward to seeing the pictures.

cheers,

camoz

Saw arrives and we started to pull it apart before I thought of taking pictures, I could not get over the precise fitting of the parts in this machine ,any surface rust had to go before things slid apart.

Had a Major disaster at this point MAJOR !! . Rushing to get the V shaped Trunnion Bracket out I could not figure out how it could possibly come out and I chose the wrong method, a hammer to tap a shaft sideways, to my horror the good gent helping me yelled out "stop your breaking off teeth"
I had not realized the teeth were taking a pounding and that there was a little screw that only had to be undone and it would have all just slid apart nicely . I had to walk away from it for a while and wait for a Black mood to lift. I will explain more about this a bit later, going out for dinner



The photograph top left is a welded up pulley remover to push the shaft out of the pulley, the only place to hold the pulley was in one of its v grooves [ it has two, Edit correction , three ] where the belts run and I was not going out to drive about looking for a tool that I would probably use once, that's if these tools exist , do they anyone ?
I cut out two half circles in 10mm plate, ground them to match the v and welded them together like a collar in the v and welded the rest to this plate ,heated the pulley up and turned the screw. broke a weld once on the contraption ,re welded it, and on the second go she started moving

Rob

Just to clear up the first paragraph of my last post I edited the middle picture in paint.
To get all the working gear out onto a bench I needed to get the trunnion Bracket[ Red Arrow] out so I could take every thing apart , and get the Saw spindle assembly off [Black Arrow] to replace the noisy bearings bearings.

Being silly and not studying the plans ,that I am getting these names from ,which I downloaded off the internet.
I went ahead and thought that by removing the spring dowels at the end of the shaft with the green arrow and tapping in the direction of the arrow that the whole assembly would rotate and be able to be taken out. My problem was that the "Racked quadrant for rise and fall" [ Blue Arrow ] would not allow the unit to be taken out. Had I read the plan I should have understood that the screw [Yellow Arrow] was the only thing in my way and a tooth and a half were cracked off.
Right at the point where the two gears sit in each other in the picture on the left , the lowest set.
I then found the screw and within minutes had it all sitting on the work bench.

I had to repair the missing tooth and had all the gear I needed to fix it. I did a bit of homework here in the welding section to make sure.
I heated the Racked quadrant up to a bright red colour with the oxy torch, filled the missing bit with a Castcraft rod with the Arc welder, buried it in a mound of sawdust and covered it with a rubbish bin lid to let it cool as slow as possible, pulled it out an hour later and cleaned it up square with the angle grinder,then carefully laid out the lines and re cut the missing 1.5 teeth with a 1mm disk in the grinder, it worked when I put it all back together to test it out, it was slightly tight for a few days and wore itself right . not happy that it happened still to this day. But OH WELLme and this saw have had a bonding experience.

The left and right pictures are of the inside all finished, no new paint in there just everything running smooth with new bearings as well.

I almost forgot to say , in the middle picture the pink arrows point to the slots in the riving knife bracket , the slots are flat at the bottom and the top and are rough. It took me 6 months to work out why the blade on my saw would not go all the way down or up , it was because these flats collect sawdust and it gets compacted there , building up. If I had known this while it was out I would have got to it with a file and crowned it smooth. I ended up getting to it with a die grinder.

Rob

These saws came in 2 and 3 hp 3 phase , My saw motor was a 2HP with noisy bearings and the mount was all bent up , It could possibly have been lifted the wrong way once, before I got it, with the lifting straps being caught up on the motor that sticks out the side, I decided on making a new mount and getting a new 3HP motor.
There is a picture there as well which shows where the dust goes.
Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

Had a Major disaster at this point MAJOR !! . Rushing to get the V shaped Trunnion Bracket out I could not figure out how it could possibly come out and I chose the wrong method, a hammer to tap a shaft sideways, to my horror the good gent helping me yelled out "stop your breaking off teeth"
I had not realized the teeth were taking a pounding and that there was a little screw that only had to be undone and it would have all just slid apart nicely . I had to walk away from it for a while and wait for a Black mood to lift. I will explain more about this a bit later, going out for dinner

Rob

Rob, I have done such things, on my newly purchase Greenlee Table saw the large nut holding the saw blade on seemed seized on, I tried for hours, penetrene, heat, a long bar on a spanner for leverage nothing worked, so I impatiently took to it with a small 5 inch angle grinder with one of those thin blades and just slicing the nut, only to find that when it came of in pieces it was Left hand thread, nice one ?!?, Oh and if Pete (lightwood) your reading this, its still not funny.....


Melbourne Matty.

That's no good Matty , the two of you are funny about it though .

I'm having a play with the editing options here , I just divided the last post in two.

We did a bit of sheet metal work with an old Oil tank picked up from the road side rubbish, welded up a bender to get the corners right, and made a frame to mount it on so it would fit it to the the machine.
Rob

Some before and after pictures

I don't have the space to use the saw with the extra table and two support legs at the moment, and I rarely cut manufactured boards . I use it with the two long guide bars which have been shifted to the left one hole, it works well this way except that I get caught up on them sometimes walking past .

The original ripping fence could have been repaired ,though reading all I could on the internet I came across people saying that it was the downfall of a good saw, the later ones are supposed to be better .
The Old saw that we used to use in this part of the workshop is an old Melbourne made 3 phase saw and we will not be using it any more , it's fence fitted up well ,I took the fence of that and did it up. The fence slides on the front and back guide bar, it does not touch the cast iron top, I give the saw top and guide bars a wipe over with paraffin oil about every six months, and its a one finger light push to slide the fence wherever it's needed

The cast Aluminium knobs have the name Welcome products, this is the name of the saw , and I have seen three of them around town . Any one know of them , I should put some pics up in a separate thread.

The colour differences are to do with some pictures being taken with iphone and some with my good digital camera, and the light as well.

My overhead guard ls fitted up to a square steel hollow section that slides inside a larger square steel hollow section, it goes up into the ceiling where it is connected to a cable that runs over a pulley , at the end is a bucket full of bricks to counter balance it. One last thing I will be doing in the new year is to make a riving knife for it.

It,s running fine with lots of grunt, setting up the cast top so that the machined slots run dead parallel with the blade was one fiddly pain in the but job , The four nuts that tighten the top down are hard to get to . If I did it again I would be thinking of ways to have the nuts on the outside of the body under the top, not inside.

Also these saws can have a 12 inch blade fitted for occasional cuts , the blade can not be lowered down under the top though.

One last thing was I had the help of one of my men, who worked with me at the time when doing this saw up , thanks Julian , [ Glencross ]
for not whinging about getting most ,well no, all, the rust scrubbing work, among the other work needed to bring this saw back to life. I was amazed at how well He had the top come up. Together we roughly spent 70 to 80 hours working on it.

cheers , Happy new year as well Gents, and Ladies if there are any reading .

Rob

Thanks to Matty for the copy's of these Brochure's of the 10 AGS.

And here are two links to some PDF's of the parts Manual for the 10 AGS .I thought there were some differences at the time I was looking through them a while back . Not sure what they were now.

Rob

http://www.wadkin.com/uploads/files/Wadkin%20AGS%20%2810%20inch%29%20Sawbench%20Manual%20&%20Parts%20List.pdf


http://www.daltonsmachines.com/uploa...Parts_List.pdf

Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970

........ only to find that when it came of in pieces it was Left hand thread, nice one ?!?, Oh and if Pete (lightwood) your reading this, its still not funny..... Melbourne Matty.[/COLOR]

Matty, still not funny...??? HeHeHeHe Yes it is. Regards, Peter

Originally Posted by lightwood

Matty, still not funny...??? HeHeHeHe Yes it is. Regards, Peter

Hilarious.....


Melbourne Matty.

Rob, thanks for putting your Wadkin AGS saw up on the forum, I have enjoyed reading it over the break and seeing the step by step process you went through.
There really should be more of this kind of behavior, there are perfectly good machines second hand here in Australia to restore and use, not to mention the environmental benefits of recycling !!
Great post Rob, thanks for sharing !

Melbourne Matty.

Rob

Nice work on the Saw;fabricated motor mount looks great as does the folding work.
My father had a Wellcome saw for many years;very solid unit.
I have only seen one other;it had a 5hp JAP petrol engine in the base.
Dad had one other saw at the time he had the Wellcome;it ran a 4 foot circular blade and was driven by the belt pulley on a 30 hp crawler tractor.The leather belt was 6inch wide and about 30 feet long;dated back to portable steam engine days.
Needless to say we were very mindful of the belt when using the saw; bring on OHS!

Cheers
Tony

Wellcome it is Tony ,I had missed the second l in the spelling that is on the knob.

I used the wellcome for a few years and it was powerful , the rise and fall was a bit awkward and no tilting arbor, as well as no dust collection. I did miss the power once we changed things around though .

Funnily enough after writing my story of this saw today , I went for a search on ebay and there is what looks to be another Wellcome just out of Melbourne.

Heck what was your Dad cutting with a machine like that, trees into lumber ?