Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    South Hobart, Hobart, Tasmania
    Age
    60
    Posts
    215

    Default Wadkins Bursgreen AGS10 riving knife and insert

    Anyone know where I can buy a spare riving knife for my AGS10?
    The current riving knife on my AGS10 is huge, with lots of metal above the blade for the finger protection. I'm looking for a shorter (leaving 1cm above blade exposed) one for day to day work and grooving.
    I'd make my own but the current one is much thicker at the base ( see photos)

    thanks

    Chris217BE3E1-70D6-45D5-B330-CDA961B81E3D.jpgF47DF812-6DCC-4698-9D95-15840356A20D.jpg25AD0A1C-A08B-4FCF-85C4-F0A9B9449F05.jpg18347EB4-6717-440E-A54F-6CE8046FCA76.jpg

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    Hi Chris,
    I have the same saw and have never seen any parts for sale apart from ebay . UK ebay has plenty of Wadkin gear and if you kept looking you may see a knife but it would only be like the one you have I think . Yours had a guard that sat on top of the knife as well ?
    I need the same thing. I don't know if Wadkin made smaller to do what You and I want . I think you will have to make it. An old saw blade would be good to cut up for such a job.

    Rob

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    South Hobart, Hobart, Tasmania
    Age
    60
    Posts
    215

    Default

    Bugger, I was hoping someone had a big pile of them.
    My concern is that the riving knife is much thicker at the bottom, perhaps three or four times thicker.
    so I'd need to braze on some extra metal or make some sort of piece the knife could bolt on to.

    Ideally some sort of quick release system would be perfects as taking the bolts out every time I want to do grooves is a PITA .

    chris

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    Do you think wing nuts would work? The original one you have looks to have rivets , is that how the thickness is built up ? Can you show a picture of what the original bolts to , I'm interested to know if I'm missing anything . I must be because I can't see how that knife would fit . I have a slotted cast frame and that's it .

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    775

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by haggismuncher View Post
    Ideally some sort of quick release system would be perfects as taking the bolts out every time I want to do grooves is a PITA .

    chris
    Chris,


    Is it a riving knife or a splitter (does it move up and down with the blade)? If I am making out correctly what I am seeing in the photos, it would have been something like this:





    But obviously missing the overhead guard (the metal above the blade is for attaching the blade guard). Likely the thickness at the bottom is to handle the added weight of the guard and resist flex with the blade guard on.


    If it moves with the blade, when you make a new one, you won't need to remove it for cutting non-through cuts. There is no need to make it 1cm above the blade that I can think of. Of cause for safety it is wise to have a blade guard (just as originally it would have had a blade guard), so in this case you would need to have an overhead guard


    Another important thing is to make the riving knife the correct thickness (this is relative to the blade), the riving knife should be thicker than the saw blade body, but thinner than the kerf for it to operate correctly and safely.


    I hope that makes sense, but didn't come accross as patronising, it just sounded like you may have been misunderstanding why the current one is so much higher than the blade (thinking the extra metal was to protect fingers, not to hold the missing blade guard)

    cheers,

    Camo

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    Camo. That's what Wadkin call the riving knife and it ( what's in the picture ) goes up and down with the blade . It's attached somehow ? To a twin slotted cast frame ( on mine any way , it did go through some design changes with time I think .)
    Rob

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    South Hobart, Hobart, Tasmania
    Age
    60
    Posts
    215

    Default

    Hi Camo,
    Yes, that's exactly what I have got, it's a riving knife not a splitter.
    My post was poorly worded, I want one to be 1cm shorter than the blade
    so that I can wind it down to do grooves but wind back up to have the knife if doing through cuts.

    Interesting idea re the wide base being for balance, I'll have a look and see if I can get away
    with a slimmer base, which woudl be much easier to make.

    I think I have 2 options:
    1. Cut down the original knife
    2. Have a go at making my own (much easier now that i don't need to make it so wide at the base).

    Not patronising AT ALL, i am very grateful for all suggestions.

    Regards

    Chris

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    775

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by haggismuncher View Post
    I want one to be 1cm shorter than the blade
    Chris,

    I don't have a AGS, but I have the BGP which I think has the same setup for riving knife, but as Rob pointed out it's my understanding that the AGS did have both a riving knife and a splitter during different times of manufacture (short answer if it moves when the blade moves, it is a riving knife).

    Here is a video of a modern saw. I choose this video only as it demonstrates what I think you have and how you want this new riving knife to sit (height wise in relation to the blade, basically in line with the height of the blade, not 1cm below).



    Basically what I think you have is this riving knife set in the top position (he demonstrates that the guard should be fitted at 2min21sec), at 3min35sec he lowers down the riving knife to it's second locking position (to do the grove cuts you are talking about). Obviously you don't have that second setting on the AGS, but if you make another riving knife you want to make it so that it sits just shy of the top blade, this means the work piece is always supported after the cut.

    With my BGP it did not have anything fitted, so I made a riving knife for it out of an old blade (it's a fairly easy process with an angle grinder and a file). I got the blade from my local saw doctor (total cost $0. Again just make sure you choose the correct thickness material for the blade. The process of making one is very easy, personally I wouldn't cut your original one. I make a prototype out of cardboard first (just to get the locking points correct and it sitting at a nice height and distance off the blade), then I cut out the old blade with a grinder, filed any burs off, and then filed the leading edge to a point to help guide the work piece onto the riving knife.

    Obviously with this riving knife arrangement (low down, no way to attach an overhead guard), I have an overhead guard fitted to protect the fingers.

    Cheers,

    Camo

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    This website has parts for Wadkin saw's .The riving knife looks sort of close but not quite right? Maybe you could cut that down? It would be a pity to cut up your original. They have a list of other parts that could be of help if anyone need some .

    S25-550 Riving Knife Pivot Bracket For Wadkin Sawbench (S25550) - check availability

    Ive been searching for info on my saw after posting here . Yours must be the earlier model . I found some good pictures of the way My saw holds a riving knife and its not the same as what you have . I'll get enough info together then cut one out . That is, when I get the time.

    Rob

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,205

    Default

    Beware there is a trick to AGS riving knife set ups here in Oz.
    There was a locally made Wadkin saw sold here in Oz.
    It was manufactured at by Chas Cousins who also made the Supersaw radial arm saw.
    It had a different attachment for the riving knife which did not go up and down with the blade.
    Apart from that and the fact that as a low volume product it was identical to an English made saw.
    Different rise and fall handles and machined not die cast throat plate.
    This information comes from Jack Thompson who was sales manager at Austral who were the Wadkin importers for about 50 years.
    I have had a few of these myself and there is nothing on them that identifies them as Oz made they are badged same as the Pom stuff.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

Similar Threads

  1. Wadkin Bursgreen AGS10 insert
    By haggismuncher in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONS
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 25th September 2016, 10:27 AM
  2. riving Knife
    By Twisted Tenon in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 13th July 2012, 07:23 PM
  3. Riving knife
    By WhatsWood? in forum SAFETY
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 21st August 2009, 06:30 PM
  4. Riving Knife
    By Big Shed in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONS
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 24th October 2007, 11:15 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •