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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    15

    Default Arbor/Hole difference

    Hi,

    I'm building my first wooden clock and would welcome some advice.

    What sort of free play should there be between an arbor shaft and its hole - either in the frame if the wheels are fixed to the arbor, or in the wheel revolving on the arbor?

    If I use Imperial rods and drills (say 3/16" rod with 13/64" drill bit), then the gap will be 0.4mm, but if I use Metric (say 5mm rod and 5.5mm drill) then it will be 0.5mm.
    I plan to use Brass rods and wood holes.

    Does anybody know if there any advantages in going one way rather than the other?

    Thank you
    Chris

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ft. Myers, Fl
    Posts
    84

    Default

    G'day Y'll
    Chris
    I would suggest steel rod for the arbors set in brass inserts.
    Drill a hole in a wooden arbor, set the steel rod in it. Set a brass plug in the wooden frame, center punch the center for the correct spacing and drill what ever size hole you need.
    <http://www.ofrei.com/page216.html> will take y7ou to a place where you can buy a book called "How to make Tiny Drills, Quickly, & Accurately" ''''for $6.50.

    I have a copy ( I cannot post it ) but it really does what it claims.
    Regards
    Joe

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Eau Claire, WI
    Posts
    2

    Default Arbor hole / difference

    The amount of play you need depends on the material you are using for the arbor and bearing. You can use wooden arbors set into wood holes, with graphite (pencil lead) for lubricant. To accommodate wood movement, you'll need to provide plenty of clearance. I usually say the arbor should "rattle" within its bearing, especially during low levels of humidity. If you are using metal arbors within metal bearings, then much less play is needed. But, you will then have to deal with lubrication. For our clocks (Clock Kits | Wooden Clocks | Clock Plans | Wooden Gear Clock Kits), we use wooden dowel arbors set into a nylon washer-type bearing. We have found this to be a real nice compromise between keeping the clock as close to all-wood as possible, while minimizing friction issues at the arbor.

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