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Thread: Clayton Boyer “Simplicity” build
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1st May 2018, 01:11 PM #16
Thanks for commenting John, I appreciate the insight!
having never made a clock before (or even seen a wood movement one) I am only going on what I read and watch on the internet - so your practical advice is very much appreciated.
i suppose the factors which affect this are obvious: the nature of the wood and its natural stability, the skill of the clock maker, the tolerances in the movement and in the end the weather and variation in environment it will run in.
i suppose the best way to consider the advice I got above and passed on is that quality play helps minimise the variability and makes it possible for beginners to proceed with a higher degree of confidence.
your clock looks beautiful. Could you please share a couple of other pics?
best,
will
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1st May 2018, 02:28 PM #17
Hello Will, If you search woodwork forums for wooden gear clocks , go down to 27 th Oct 2006 you will see all about a Naked Clock.
I transferred the works into a Grand Father case a few years ago. All photos were deleted several years ago.
A couple of photos I took of the works today . John.
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1st May 2018, 10:48 PM #18
Today I added to my Simplicity Template with the completion of the Third Wheel teeth and further refinement of the Escape and Centre Wheels.
I also incorporated the first pinion - they are so small I’m not sure it will be a great help.
In fact the main benefit of this exercise regardless of how useful it will be when completing the actual clock works is that it’s giving me solid practice on each of the teeth profiles and accurately drilling the plans when affixed.
I spent some time getting my working position, lighting and bench setup sorted.
Got some Japanese files that are awesome - wonderful working with each shape and getting used to which ones hit up the various areas, curves and transitions best.
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2nd May 2018, 11:10 AM #19GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Will and Nine Fingers.
The book I bought about a year ago is called "Making Wooden Gear Clocks". Is full of glossy photos and comes with I think about 6 or 8 full size patterns. Cost of the book was around $18.
Nine Fingers, interesting that you made yours from solid timber. I will get to this project at some stage. Have too many other box projects in my head at present.
Thanks again
Paul
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2nd May 2018, 05:26 PM #20
Progressing on the template with the wheels done and the pinions still to come.
Today I got my copper pipe 40mm for the weight and counter weight and did an arbor layout test on the frame.
There is a misalignment between the front and back frame (which I expected and don’t know if I’ll bother to correct except as a testing frame.
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2nd May 2018, 10:49 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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hi John
Your clock looks amazing, excellent job. And notch I am enjoying the ride here and your work so far,
Paul
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3rd May 2018, 03:09 PM #22
The jig which is a kind of shooting board more than anything is done.
Now to move onto some of the more straightforward parts.
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3rd May 2018, 03:58 PM #23
Clayton Boyer “Simplicity” build
Working with my Baltic Birch 1/4” or 12mm now.
This is essentially all the pinions and other “non-toothed” parts that are 1/4”
Left a straight line about 1/3rd down so I can cut the board before scrolling.
One of the challenges I’ve faced is the glue not perfectly sticking down edges - this might be the Kwik Grip itself or my application but this time I’ve allowed more space around the edges of the pieces and applied the glue by holding the plan piece up in front of me and spraying it horizontally in a vertical orientation.
What I also did was allow shake the piece a bit like a Polaroid before laying it down and then going over the surface, especially the lines with a folded piece of paper to squeeze the glue around underneath. Hoping this will allow me to cut more easily.
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4th May 2018, 12:05 AM #24
These parts are now scrolled apart and the round ones roughed out by hand on the linisher.
Then I set to hand finishing the pendulum pivot.
I spent a lot of time ensuring that I was shooting straight across the edges with the files and took my time working with the appropriate file up to the lines.
This has been great fun and a good challenging session.
Happy with the result and contemplating the next pieces and getting the bob round without marking the outside centres.
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4th May 2018, 11:12 PM #25
Good progress today.
I sourced 10kg lead shot from Consolidated Alloys in Weatherill Park and some 50lb mono for suspending it on the copper pipe and caps.
Then with growing confidence in my drilling I put the centre holes in all the 12mm/half inch parts.
The pallet anchor has its basic shape and I’m working on the best way to shape all the circles/discs I have to make.
All can be turned against the disc sander on a pivot but I’ll have to work out a way of centring the bob parts as the front and back have faces which I don’t want to drill/marr.
The centre piece of the bob is centre drilled because it has to be cut and the back sides of the face pieces could be marked (the plans don’t have the centre point).
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5th May 2018, 05:21 PM #26
A very productive session today.
I laid out the new frame on the Baltic Birch to consider grain direction and material conservation.
I tackled the set screws for the anchor and centre wheel support.
I cut the pendulum bob adjustment slider out of a spare piece and sized it.
Then i worked out a disc sanding jig and finished turning the weight pulleys and bob pieces.
I managed to turn the bob front and back pieces without marking the faces. Very happy with the result.
I finished up by roughing out the bob centre piece.
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6th May 2018, 01:20 PM #27
Pendulum bob and slider are fitted and sliding nicely.
I’ll have to take a little more out and then wax the channel because the slider will be enclosed on all sides and if the wood swells it could lock up. But given that it is on a threaded rod and nut it should still be able to be adjusted.
I’m going to glue the back on first so I can add the weight and tune the adjustment block for thickness.
I’m also considering if I should do the assembly with some brass screws and a shallow chamfer to the circumference.
I’ll have to practice that on the router though because it would be a shame to stuff up the piece.
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7th May 2018, 05:46 PM #28
Got the pendulum bob design settled and back glued on.
I wanted a bevel to the faces and so that was a good excuse to make another jig!
The screw made advancing the bevel in small increments much easier than just sliding the piece in the tracks.
Very happy with results. Next time I think I’ll go for a much steeper angle so it exposes wider concentric rings but for this bob it’s just right.
I set up some blocks to lay the piece up to and glued the back piece on.
This has been completed without marking the faces on front or back and the correct grain direction and A surface has been chosen.
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9th May 2018, 12:05 AM #29
Cut the pendulum, pinned the fittings at each end and put the dummy frame on my only convenient vertical “wall”.
Nice colour match!
There was a stuff up today that I’m not over enough to relate yet!
At any rate I’m now getting ready to cut the frame for real and proceed with the wheels. I did the cannon pinion and got a decent result after spending some time tuning the scroll saw. Got the blade moving pretty much dead straight up and down (adjusted the back/front alignment) and it’s cutting very precisely.
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12th May 2018, 11:18 PM #30
So I’ve been delayed working on my Mother’s Day project and helping my son make something for her too.
With my new scroll saw superpowers I made a minimalist low table for my wife.
And I had some headaches cutting the blanks for the new frame - it’s been put on ice while I got back onto the pinions, weight wheels, main wheel and dial ring pieces.
My scrolling is improving with every piece.
I’m also really appreciating the Flying Dutchman 2 way reverse #7s I just received from Helen and Owen.
Dial ring needs to be finished to ensure it mates properly.
Now onto the 1/4” parts.
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