Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 62
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Really solid progress.

    My work cadence has increased. More confident with the tools and how the plans work I got stuck into the next series of parts.


    The clicks - straight off the scroll - some finishing to do.


    But given they were all cut individually they are a pretty good set even before sanding (even if I do say so myself!)


    The weight pulley assemblies nearly complete and stacked on one arbor to check.


    Still many teeth to cut! And none of the wheels have been started except the centre (above).


    The first of many final assemblies being assessed prior to finishing and gluing.


    This is the winding barrel and click gear.
    The 1/8” hole is for the weight cord to pass through.
    The counter weight will spool o the front and the main weight the rear half of the winding barrel.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Well it’s been a busy and tricky couple of days.

    Starting with the easy job of finishing the bob, I loaded it with lead shot, glued it up and fine tuned the adjustment slider and pendulum hanger.





    Then I drilled the frame pieces ready for cut outs and trimming for the frame fit up.



    I’m absolutely stoked on the Carbatec scroll saw - in combination with the Flying Dutchman blades I got from Helen I’m cutting pieces which hardly need any additional work (at least prior to prepping for finish)



    I’m using #7 and 9 two way reverse blades which are a bit wider and tend to both track very well on straight lines and have a clean sharp edge which can be used for shaving the lines when necessary.



    Pretty much ready to go for the glue-up.



    I’ve switched to frame building mode and therefore spent quite a bit of time ensuring everything was ready to put the final frame together with no complications.



    Start with a clean flat and level surface.



    Prepare a set of fences/guides to square everything up in.



    Lay down some glad-bake and we are ready to do a trial run of the clamping arrangement.



    A few little tweaks and the gluing is done!



    After a cooking for three hours while I went to Bunnings to get some spray clear poly - the baking paper comes away and everything looks fine.





    “The horor, the horor.”

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    (Just lost a huge post when Tapatalk quit on me)

    The rear frame, supports and front frame glueup.

    Critical everything is square, level and true and arbor holes aligned perfectly from front to back. Quite tricky.



    Lots of squares, levels and checking back and forth.

    Then lock in the front frame aligned with rear and let it setup. Then complete with the rear.



    Tomorrow I can start finishing the frame and look back to the workings.


    “The horor, the horor.”

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Yesterday and today I finished the weight pulleys with the help of some slot cutters and sage advice on the router fence setup from “AussiePens” - thanks John!




    Zero tolerance fence and turned the wheels by hand. Bang on centre, correct depth and width.

    I spent some time cleaning up the cutouts, removed the templates and sanded the rest of the weight pulley assemblies.



    The winding assembly is glued up and ready to install so that completes the weight system.



    The “Silent winding” mechanism uses these pawls - called “clicks” in clock making - and gravity to lock the system when rewinding.

    The clicks rotate freely on the back of the centre wheel and are ready to mount and engage with the click gear.







    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default Clayton Boyer “Simplicity” build

    I remade a couple of parts which I wasn’t happy with, or had damaged when fitting the set screws used to secure them on arbors.

    The plans list imperial dimensions throughout with metric provided in parentheses.

    I had had some difficulty locating M3 4mm and M5 4mm grub screws and grabbed a mixed bag from Bunnings which were too large and since I only had metrix Allan keys I stuffed up the threading/self-tapping swapping between imperial and metric set screws that were too large.

    The imperial ones I got had a much coarser thread which would have been ideal but the smallest size was still too big.

    In the end I got some M3 and M5s and selected an appropriate bit size to drill the parts in preparation for screwing them in.

    Clayton recommends screwing the grub screws in gradually, advancing and backing out as the screw thread cuts and eventually starts to bind in the bore. Once the thread is started and the screw binds, you back it out, lubricate with paraffin and reinsert advancing a bit further each time.

    The paraffin stained the wood and because I’d made a mess, I recut the parts and selected a better bit size, based on practicing on a piece of scrap.

    Then i clamped the part and being very careful to tap perfectly straight I started the thread, then when I started to bind, backed it out and used a silicon lube to complete.

    This included the preparation of the Cannon Pinion which engages with the main arbor via a piece of leather inserted between the set screw and the arbor. This allows the intermediate wheel to act as the means of setting the hands (moving them together both forwards or backwards) because the leather plug will allow the hour and minute hand assemblies to move in sync while the cannon pinion slips against the main arbor (3/16”).

    Once I’ve completed this I will do a breakdown of the design which will make more sense then.

    I take my hat off to Clayton for the “Simplicity” and effectiveness of this method. The whole design is quite inspired!

    I have also done some tuning of the dial ring segments.

    These now fit together to form the circle and i did a dry run of a clamping arrangement for when I’m ready to glue the dial.



    Before I went ahead though I started thinking about what I could do with the dial ring. Some builders have added inlays or simple markings, even cut Roman numerals and mounted them.

    Initially I thought I’d like the effect of raised numbers in a dark wood - say Merbau, given that this would then be the only contrasting colour in the clock - I’ve been working on the principle that I’d complete the whole clock out of Baltic Birch and not introduce other wood as a feature.

    Then I realised that I could just as easily do a dial layout in Adobe Illustrator and then drill the dial ring segments and cut the numbers out!





    This will be in keeping with the “skeleton” character of the whole piece and emphasise the single stock aspect.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Sanded the clicks to size 6mm to 5mm for clearance.
    Made the three click hanger rods
    Glued the upper support block on the frame.
    Made the pendulum dowel.

    This last was very exacting.



    I marked and cut a 0.5mm deep flat perpendicular to the angle of the end grain that will show through the frame.

    Then added a v groove 0.5mm deep to interface with the pendulum hanger.







    It’s Tassie Oak btw.



    Some refinement still required but the fit and alignment with the frame are good!









    Glued up the dial ring.

    I’m not going to put numerals on the face, not only is this very laborious but what the simplicity design needs most I believe is a stain on the hands - because the contrast with the dial ring and workings is non existent.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Started on the arbor cutting, sizing and finishing process.

    Bit of a trick this. Not used to working with Metals.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Tubes added to arbors




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default Clayton Boyer “Simplicity” build

    One of the things that stops wooden clocks is weather, another is whether or not the arbors are finished properly and used properly.

    Especially in a clock which uses brass tubing over stainless steel rods, as coaxial arbors, spacers or bushings it is critical that internal friction is and potential for binding to occur is minimised.

    Using brass bushings in frames to support arbors that run between them can lead to binding if the frame sags at all when the weight is added and the clock starts running in.

    The Simplicity does not have bushings of this kind though it does use a bushing through the rear frame for the crutch/pallet arbor.

    After a lot of reading and trial and error I ended up with the following process.



    Chuck the stainless arbor in the press and face it on a two grade whetstone, then use another whetstone to ease the edge and grind the face up to the chuck.



    Flip it and repeat.



    I used a progressive approach from the stone to 1200grit to three grades of cutting and polishing compound applied on scrap.



    To finish the arvors I used the hand drill and the cutting compounds and polishing paste on cloths.



    The progress of the ends was from cutting off to grinding down to size on the bench grinder to the polish.



    The result is as close to mirror finish that I felt I could realistically achieve with my time.



    These pics are through a loupe so the appearance to the naked eye is very pleasing!

    The brass went much faster but required that the inside was polished to as high a finish as I could get as that is really where the friction will be.





    After doing all the arbors I found my work had improved enough to have to go back to the first ones!

    Then while I watched Harry Potter with the kids i did a final hand polish with the jewellery paste...









    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Ground the flat for the Cannon Pinion into the centre arbor.






    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    I’m working through a list of the last major items and it is nearly time to concentrate on cutting the wheels.

    Ive left everything else in a queue to spray and in an effort to ensure I get the best possible result I made a simple spray booth out of scrap.



    I completed the weight hangers and finished the pendulum bob adjustment slider with M4 threaded Rod, washer and nuts.








    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Centre wheel first cut is complete.






    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Centre wheel cutouts done.



    Cutouts done on the hour and intermediate wheels.



    Escape wheel in progress.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    The hands are cut and I’m working on an embellishment which will assist with the balancing. The ring will be filed down to give the parallel lines of the hands an embossed effect.



    You can see this on the minute hand but I’ve not started the hour hand yet.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Today I was concrete grinding most of the day but I managed to finish the Escape wheel cutouts and the pipes for the weight and counterweight with the arrival of my pipe cutter.






    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Clayton Boyer Clocks
    By jon ward in forum CLOCKS
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 28th April 2017, 08:12 PM
  2. Simplicity of life's issues
    By John Saxton in forum WOODIES JOKES
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12th April 2014, 03:55 PM
  3. Lubrication simplicity or silliness?
    By nadroj in forum THE HERCUS AREA
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 5th April 2014, 10:44 AM
  4. Boyer A Class cat
    By woodeneye in forum CLASSIC BOAT RESCUE & ADOPTION
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 19th April 2011, 02:31 PM
  5. Inclination a clock designed by Clayton Boyer
    By Hobbyhorse in forum CLOCKS
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 29th July 2009, 06:19 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •