Thread: First clock... A small one

Now I see....The numbers for me were less of a fiddle than I expected...the stars however.......are another thing!

Dean.

I made a No 10 clock from Brian Laws and it runs for a couple of days at a time, keeps good time as well. The brass covers on the bearing holes were an issue aestheticly. I would make the plates with blind holes next time, no need for covers.
The site you pointed too for joining ply was a god send, thanks.
Steve

Hi Steve
Yes I have redesign my clock to have blind holes much simpler
Your clock 10 look to have many parts ..any pic of it?
My son found that site re joining ply and I have used some of the method in my redesign of my clock. but you have got my curiosity up... why has it been a god send for you... what are you making.. come on and share


Russell

Have made the new gears with some curved spokes that look as I said a bit sexier.
Top left of the 'new gear' photo are the winding drums made in two part each then put together with two brass pins as seen in the 'drum ratchet' photo. You can see how the ratchet is pushed on to the drum by the pins.
If you look closely at the "new gear" photo of the drum parts on one side of two of them you can see a groove running though the centre hub just off centre. This is for the the string to go through so it can be lock on to the drum.
In the same Photo you can see that I am going to use two ratchet arms as I have broken some single ones in testing.

My son has seen this clock and has now officially ask for one. So I thought I would supply it as a kit to him. This is what the rectangle cut out are for (centre bottom and left gear) the brass pins are to be stored into.
The whole clock fits onto 11 piece of ply 300mm x 200mm. No glue is need but for long term a drop is good. I will have to supply some sand paper as well but there should be nothing else needed just some tools, knife to cut tabs holding the parts in, small hammer for pins and some time.

Will be staining and clear coating this week I hope Assembling next week is the plan

Russell

Hi Russell..love the double ratchet set up...how did you come up with the idea? Alos think the re-design drum is tops.; might have to work that idea into mine.

Dean.

Thank dean for the encouragement that you give
The idea was that, one broke then two is twice as strong, then two was born.

Attach is my lay out for cutting for anyone interest in how I have done it up to now with a ruff description.
Panels
1-2 = mounts and frames
3 = weight boxes need 2 of these need to be cut
4 = escapement/ rocker( + a spare one) and weight box base and lids
5 = drums and large gears, ratchet drum
6 = bob parts , hands, hour gears large
7 = pendulum rod, swing angle gauge, weight box holder
8 = clock face


Russell

The finish is now going on. Taking a bit of a risk here as I have not run the new parts yet.
Photo show what is stained the rest will be clear coated

Russell

Looks great Russell I like the contrast. ....especially like how some of your larger wheels have a different inner design; adds to the overal flair of the clock!

Dean.

Hi
Gave the gears a tooth sand after apply the finish to remove any finish that might have got on the working surfaces.
Got the clock back together with the new gears , set the rocker and pendulum and gave it a nug and it ran for 4 hours only stopped by the bob adjustment nut hit the weight boxes. But this is a easy fix.
Attached is the clock face put together.
The photo of the whole clock was just a blur so I will take new photo and post it later.

Russell

Well I am still here
Just been a bit short of time with some work.
I hope to do the infill on the clock face this weekend and mount it. Then it can be put up in the office. can not wait....Will post some pic of the end result.

Russell

Have infilled the numbers and outside line with epoxy. It look black in the photo but it is dark grey. The dots at 12,3,6,9 will be in brass as I will mount the face on brass rods at these point that will space it out from the frame.
The current problem is the pendulum, the clock is running just a bit to quick with the bob on the end of it settings
Two choices
1; make the pendulum rod longer by a 50mm
2; make the bob heaver and here I had a thought of adding the weight in the form of inlaying some coins in to the bob face. Done some sums and if I put all coin denotations 5c-$2. I can make the bob out of 2 pieces of ply not three as it is now. This make it slimmer and less air resistance there for need less weight.

Russell

Face looks great. Not sure about your air resistance theory though...

Hi Russell Bravo...looks great. Like the llok of the epoxy....I would go for adding some extra weight rather than lengthen the rod but either can solve the probelm. The air resistance would contribute some and in the end it ALL adds up.Just my thoughts...

Dean.
PS just onto re-designing my ratchedt by trying to make the teeth deeper. How did you re-design yours?

Well it is now in place and running.
First problem was the wall and how out of plum it was a good 12mm from top of pendulum to bob. Had to put on the thinner bob to stop it hitting the wall.
It much louder now it is on a hollow wall, acts like a sound box with the other side in the hallway but it still quite soothing the regular tic toc.
I put a close up of how the rocker is locked on to the shaft, With this you do not need any glue, the pendulum has the same clamp, makes for setting it up simple.
The angel meter is telling me I am swinging a 8 deg arc.
In the up close photo you can see the brass pins used to hold the face on at 12,3,6,9
Still a bit of fine tuning to go but it all looking good.... touch wood .... Not the moving bit

Russell