my first clock

**Fireguard** · 13th July 2008, 10:55 PM

I use that perfect gloss stuff when I do my clocks, Usually two coats does the job quite well.

The best trick I've found with it is when you have mixed it and poured it over the surface of your clock, spread it out with a small paint brush, paying particular attending to the edges, then wait a few minutes, most of the smaller bubbles in the coat should have poped by now, for the ones that haven't, if you get one of the cigarette lighter blowtorch things (about $10 from bunnings) and wave the flame over the top and the bubbles will all pop leaving you with a nice smooth surface. it's also a pretty good idea to check on it again in about 45 minutes because you sometimes get some more bubbles coming up from deep in the wood, hit these bubbles with the blowtorch and you'll once again have a smooth finish...

I usually leave it for about 18-24 hrs then do a second coat if its needed... and after this time the surface is pretty hard so you an turn it over and sand the droppletts of the coat that are hunging from underneath. they usually sand off pretty easily with a bit of 180 grit with a Randum orbit sander.

Another trick with it is to raise your work off the table slightly, a small wooden block underneath usually does the trick and place some newspaper underneath, this way when the coat drips off the end it drips onto the paper and your work doesn't get stuck to the paper or our table

**mattym83** · 14th July 2008, 07:48 PM

do you think it would hide the difference in layer thickness from the previous laquer underneath? or do i need to pull the numbers off and resand?

**Fireguard** · 15th July 2008, 12:51 PM

If you put a coat of gloss coat on it will definately make a new flat layer on top of the existing. As to whether or not you'll see the difference in the laquer coats I'm not sure, but if there is no "dark Lines" where the two layer intersect, or the runs just look like 'bumps' in the surface my guess is the gloss will cover it.

I guess it all depends on what the runs look like, if it is just a height difference in the coats the gloss should work to cover it, but I've never put the gloss coat over laquer so it's only a guess

**mattym83** · 21st July 2008, 10:06 PM

i bought and used some perfect gloss but i found that it didnt apply evenly in some spots i think a second coat will fix this problem but i think i got dust in he mix from the brush what would you use to spread the mix out?

**Fireguard** · 21st July 2008, 10:26 PM

I usually use a small paintbrush, but I have also had pretty good results using popsticks (usually the same one that I used to mix the resin

) the tung depresser sticks (the ones the Doc uses to check your throat) are really good at mixing your resin and spreading also.

Another tip for using the stuff, when you mix it together, mix it slowly using the popstick/depresser, that way you get less bubbles in the mix that you need to get rid of later..

**Template Tom** · 30th July 2008, 06:50 PM

My method of insertin the clock movements is to decide on a template guide and cutter to be used, then calculate the size of the template opening required.
I offer this as a guide only as you can use a variety of combinations.
If it is a circular clock movement measure the diameter of the clock say it was 58mm.
The template guide used 30mm with a 10mm cutter will mean that you will require the opening to be 78mm or if it is a square movement it will be the size of the square plus 20mm.
The thickness of the template can be as thin as 9mm, I usually use 12mm.
The circular shape can be cut with a circle cutting jig whilst the square can me constructed by gluing sections together to leave the square opening required.
Tom

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