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  1. #46
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    Like I said hands are hard to do well! They look ok....a little thinner with a wedge tail. Try that. What Brian laws clock have you started Geoff ? Just reassembled mine and we have ticking! Though the emp says it's slow.
    Dean

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  3. #47
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    Jun 2001
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    Perth, WA (Ellenbrook)
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    Dean, it's clock 11. Small and not too complex to start with. Making it out of perspex as I have a good stock on hand, and if it doesn't work, nothing lost. Don't want to destroy good timber on a clock until I know what I'm doing. It's a good learning experience.

    Cheers
    Geoff

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
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    705

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    Have been playing with the rendering today.
    Took some photos of the ply and added them to the surfaces of the clock. To make thing show I put some in dark timber other with a gold color but most is in raw ply.
    Hopefully this is a bit more realist looking...... I would like feed back on this ...does it help or not in seeing the finished product??
    Note; Dean your clock hand narrowing is on these pics
    ;_ Fly_ thanks for the design I will knock up a set to see how they look ...so any other shapes out there...Can not make them if you do not let us know...mmmmm

    Any comments on my clock face(x2) holding methods

    Must get back to the mounting the clock engineering...


    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  5. #49
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    Oct 2008
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    sydney
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    Love the rendering; it helps appraise it particularily as to how its gonna look. I like how the hands look now that they are narrowed. Still would like to see some hands based how the second hand design!
    Dean.

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    nsw
    Posts
    26

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    At the risk of telling you stuff you already know, I saw some YouTube videos of clock escapements made with leggo. My favorite was a mc Donald two leg escapement. In the future I hope to design my own clocks and have this motion in mind for it.
    My thoughts go along with yours, if the clock is wood and unusual it should be out so everyone can see the works. Then the escapement can be unique as well.

  7. #51
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    Oct 2008
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    sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    Prefer the second one. Frame is less obtrusive and doesn't overpower the gear train.
    I think the same...2 is best
    Dean

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
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    4,774

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    I like the thinner hands a lot better
    And the face holderers (technical term) are good too. The little cam lock is a nice touch. Something similar for the large face?
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  9. #53
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    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
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    705

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    Thanks for the feedback guys
    Yes the thinner hands do look better, but I will put some other hand shape in the kit also.
    Fly has put up one suggestion for a second set of hands any thought on them.......

    Attach is some more renderings of the clock....

    Keep the thoughts and suggestions coming.... it makes for a better clock.

    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  10. #54
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    What did fly suggest?what do they look like?

    Dean

  11. #55
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    Apr 2011
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    Dandenong, Vic
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    They are yellow on the previous page (post 44). I just wanted something a bit more traditional. I went with the holes cut down the length to show the movement at the back. I'm happy if its thinner, or has more holes or length different. I'm just not as keen on the wobbly hands.

  12. #56
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    Aug 2010
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    Glenbrook NSW Australia
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    Hi
    Have been testing the clip Idea today.
    Although the clips are a good idea they are not going to be tight or durable enough to be taken apart many times as would be needed as the clock is being build.
    The test clip are attached along with the new wedge stile that pulls up tight and is easy to undo.
    Where the brackets do not have to be undone I am planning on using a simple wedge that when put in comes out flat with the surface. These can be undone if needed it will take some fiddling to separate them.

    NCarcher
    "And the face holderers (technical term) are good too. The little cam lock is a nice touch. Something similar for the large face?"
    Re the large face was just going to be a friction fit between the 3 brackets as the brackets will have some spring in them....

    Have been working on the raised mounting, hope to have a renders up shortly for comment....

    It is amazing the amount of time that goes in to this...thing we do for art....
    It make you appreciate the time that goes in to some of the complicated thing we take for granted...cars...planes... toast......


    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  13. #57
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    Aug 2010
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    Glenbrook NSW Australia
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    vapourforge.com

  14. #58
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    Jun 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA (Ellenbrook)
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    Hi Rusel

    I think the reason this thread has gone quiet is that everyone is happy with the way you have the clock looking. Probably, like me, they have nothing to add. You've done a great job of designing this clock and it's now way past my ability to add anything constructive.

    Cheers

  15. #59
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    Apr 2011
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    Dandenong, Vic
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    I agree, Thanks for all the effort you have made with our requests. It does look good.

  16. #60
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    Aug 2010
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    Glenbrook NSW Australia
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    The old problem now is that I am down to the last 10% that takes 90%of the effort to do....but we shall push on and ever upward... as they say.:

    The raised rear mounting bracket systems are attached. There are two ways that I have come up with to raise the clock off the wall. Both use a cross frame to reach across the swinging pendulum to two wall mount at the bottom end of the clock. This cross frame has a cut out that lets in the back frame this will make the connect between these two solid and locates it.
    1; is a set of 4 disc that interlock into each other to make a cone through which a screw will mount the clock.
    2; is a set of 4 two oval discs on edge which will seat on either side of the mounting screw. These disc should be let into the back of the back frame for more rigidity.

    Which looks best to you guys?

    Also in the renders you can see the new frame dividing brackets with the new clips. I have doubled up on the clips on each and combined the lower one with the clock face mounting bracket

    Last render has the face with the jigsaw face and numbers....keep the face simple or add more detail like a grove near the outside edge to frame it?
    There will always be the choice of turning the face over and you will have a blank face to work with....
    After some feed back on the above it is then time for the cutting layout...trying to fit all these parts into the smallest amount of plywood.

    Russell
    vapourforge.com

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