Thread: Here's how it starts...

G'Day Swifty,
There is some good looking timber there.
The longcase I am working on at the moment is mostly built from 19mm Blackwood with 25mm trim, it is verry heavy in 19 mm.
Blackwood is solid timber as you would be aware and as long as the plinth is solid I would tend not to use 25mm for the main construction.
This is just my veiw though.
Andrew

G'day Andrew,
I noticed quite a bit of variation in the density of the blackwood. The straight and lighter coloured ones are noticeably lighter than the heavily featured material. There will be a lot of glass in the design I'm using, apart from the kickboards and the pediment boards, most of the case is 50mm wide pieces, so hopefully not too heavy. I'm using blackwood laminated material for the case backboard (shame to use good boards for that, when they could be used for another clock...)
Thanks for your comments - I'm waiting to see how your grandfather's coming along too
Cheers
Luke

G'Day Luke,
Mine has slowed up a bit at the moment, Had a lot of box orders and a couple of bracket clocks but should be back into it next week.
I am nealy ready to start fitting the movement but have to do some work on the weights as the inserts are longer than my shells.
I hope to have the case finished in a week or so.

Look foward to seeing yours progress.
Catch ya
Andrew

I've been working in my spare time (nowhere near enough, ever!) to get the clock to this stage. Sides are glued, case front dowelled, so I just clamped it together to get a feel for the size of the thing. Looks like it will come together square, then I can move on to making the pediments, goosenecks and kickboards.

Some of the ripped lengths of blackwood twisted and warped terribly luckily most of them turned out straight enough.

Cheers

Hi Swifty,

It is coming along nicely... Is it a HB clock plan?

Are you going to use wood panels up the top on the sides or removable glass panels so you can see the workings inside?

Some wood is a bit like that. Some does the splits as it passes over the saw and others sorta cross their legs. Still can use it for the short lengths but need good straight stable bits for the glass especially the door.

How do you plan to fit the glass into the wooden frames?

Looking forward to seeing more of your progress pics

Chipman

G'Day Swifty,
The case is coming along well by the look of it.
How is the movement accessed, from the back or from above?
I am looking foward to the next episode.
Catch Ya
Andrew

Looks good Swifty, I see you've got a nice bit of woodwork lubricant on the router table there.

Thanks guys. The clock plan is the HB 905, with some alterations - stock is 3mm thicker, and I redesigned the goosenecks which will sweep higher.

As for fitting the glass - there are a few ways I could do it, I am trying to get hold of some glass retainers to hold the glass panels in fairly flush in rebates. I need to talk to my local glazier, basically I am open to suggestions on where to get these retainers and best way to use them. I saw them on a website somewher but lost the link.

I would like to put in glass panels on the top too, so can see the movement. Just started work on the door today, will post again when its done.

...and the container for that "lubricant' leaks a shocker..have to refill it all the time

Hi Swifty,
A good idea modifying your plan as it makes it a little more your own. I think most agree that having a higher pediment (horns?) makes it look a little more like a traditional grandfather clock. I think the foot design of the HB plan needs a little work too.

Here is a picture of my upper glass panels. I did it much like sliding gass panels.. 8mm slot at the top and 4mm slot at the bottom and the sides simple rebates. The panels come out by lifting them up then dropping it back down inside then push the top inside lift into the clock cavity and turn a little sideways and it comes out. Seems a little complicated but it is really quite easy. (I hope it is because It is time to take it out and get the clock serviced!)

As for the rest of the glass, the glazier told me to stick the glass in with silicon! (not doing that ever!)
In the end I used some automotive double sided tape (Repco) to give it a bit of flex and then a small wooden bead to hold it in. I used a few small brass nails to clip the bead in. The nail holes were pre drilled just a bit smaller than the nail so nothing would split and could be removed if necessary. (I got the idea from looking at some high quality furniture.) Someone else told me to use a small diameter cane and pin it in.

I have noticed on the top curve of the door, they often cut a slot and just push the glass loosely into it. I did it the hard way with a curved wooden bead.

Have a good day making your door

Chipman

Very good thanks for your input Chippie.
I've been a bit busy with work, so haven't had too much time in the shed.. I've routered the insides and cut the panels for the sides (sorry no pics at this time...will post later ) and have cut out my modified goose necks or horns whatever we want to call them. Also I have been giving some thought to the foot, (I agree with your comment) and have redesigned them. The HB 905 plan is amenable to adjustment, and why not? I want to make something unique . I decided to use full wooden upper panels, I gave this some consideration and in the end I decided that upper glass panels would reveal the support structure of the mechanism, and this (only MHO) might detract from the overall aesthetics of the workpiece (not critisizing Chippies' design in any way).
What is the timber you used in your previous photo, Chipman?
I have also noticed when cutting shapes in blackwood with my jigsaw, that the wood really wants to catch on fire (smoky after a few seconds) and this is especially so when cutting along the grain, but doesn't seem to be a problem cutting across the grain . I'm sure others have noticed this too. But this is the first time I've worked with blackwood. It is easier to work than my standard WA wood jarrah, (so it seems to me) apart from the ignition problem, and the finish is just beautiful.
I have no idea when I will make significant progress (my day job is quite demanding...) but I'll start a new thread when I'm nearing completion.

Cheers Swifty

Hi Swifty,

Blackwood is a bit like that...tends to burn....Have you tried using a slower speed with the router and your jig saw, the other thing is to get a jig saw blade with fewer teeth per inch and wider set.

The wood I used was Makore...some call it african cherry but it is stained to more closely match the rest of my furniture. You won't need to stain Blackwood!

Good luck with it all and don't rush it.. take your time and enjoy the process!

Regards,

Chipman

Swifty,

I thought I would show you how I did the glass up the top in mine... This caused me a lot of headaches trying to work out how to do it and keep it looking good. See the pics below. You will notice I fussed over making the support look decent and the movement can be removed on its support board by simply undoing the four screws that hold it in. The hoizontal side support actually shows through the glass but looks ok.

I am not telling you to use glass as the wood panel up the top looks good too and sort of matches the wooden panel in the side down the bottom. It is just I went looking at lots of clocks to get ideas and this is what I like and what I knew my wife liked (as it was made for her!)

Regards,
Chipman

Mustabeenasleep! How did I miss this?

Looks fabulous.

Originally Posted by artme

Mustabeenasleep! How did I miss this?

Looks fabulous.

Hi Artme... You do mean Swifty's clock that he is still building don't you?

I built the same plan as Swifty about 5 years ago and I am just showing Swifty how I did the glass up the top.. I haven't actually posted a picture of mine as I don't want to hijack Swifty's thread! just the parts that are relevent.

Regards,

Chipman