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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
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    113

    Default Advice needed for first clock

    Hi,

    SWMBO decided that I can make a clock for some friends for a wedding present.

    Not something I have attempted before, so any input or advice would be appreciated. We tossed around a couple of ideas, originally thinking about a fitup, then deciding on fitting just a movement with markers, so that more of the wood can be seen.

    See below the piece of York Gum Burl that I'll be using.

    First pic is side A, and probably the side I prefer the best because you can see the natural edge that frames it a little better and also, only one visible hole. I'll be leaving the hole, as I feel it adds to the character. Side B seems to be a preference for SWMBO at the moment, but we'll see.

    Hands and markers will be a gold colour to stand out more clearly.

    The burl is 25mm thick roughly, before I start working it through the grades of sandpaper with my ROS. I'll have to work on flattening the faces, as they are a little uneven at the moment.

    I'll then expect I'll have to route a recess in the back to allow for the depth of the clock movement.

    The main questions I have are, what sort of finish does everyone tend to use on this type of clock? I'm not a big fan of high gloss finishes for this type of thing.

    Also what grade of sandpaper does everyone sand down to?

    Are there any pitfalls that I have overlooked, because I'm thinking these will be valuable to know before I start.

    Appreciate any input and thoughts.

    Thanks

    -Gavin
    Last edited by scorpio_oz; 12th March 2009 at 11:27 PM. Reason: spelling

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Mandurah WA
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    62
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    Default Burl Clock

    Hey Gavin,

    Nice looking Burl, should make a very nice clock, I would probably start with 80 grit and then go to 120, then 180, depending on the Finish possible go to 240, any finish Gloss or Satin (Semi Gloss) you don't need to go past 240, IMO. Keep us informed.
    You can get a big Forstner bit to do the cut out for the movement, and you can also get different length Movements, I would inlet the movement at least the depth of the movement so it hangs fairly close to the Wall.


    HazzaB

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Bendigo
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    51
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    662

    Default

    You can get a big Forstner bit to do the cut out for the movement
    To save myself having to purchase one big enuf for a one off job, I simply used a holesaw and routed out the guts. Figured I had to make a hole for the shaft anyway.
    www.lockwoodcanvas.com.au

    I will never be the person who has everything, not when someone keeps inventing so much cool new stuff to buy.

    From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    113

    Default

    What glue is recommended for fixing the numbers or markers?

    Also, should this be done before or after I have put the finish on the surface. The thing I am concerned about is the numbers not sticking, and only discovering this after I have put the finish on.

    Thanks

    -Gavin

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