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  1. #46
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    Feb 2015
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    Hobart
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    Waldo,

    Thank you very much for the well illustrated grandfather's clock WIP.
    Looking at the pics of the panels for the side gables, they look quite thick, 50mm at a guess?
    If this is so, the finished carcass will already be a fair weight, even without the actual movement in its sliding frame!

    We were lucky to inherit such a clock. The movement was taken out to be completely cleaned & serviced by a qualified clockmaker. This allowed me to clean all the cabinet work and I was quite surprised by the light weight of the carcass - hence my question!

    Cheers
    Yvan

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    Queensland
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    Any issues/thoughts with footprint versus height/width/weight with regards stability?

    Won’t necessarily be an issue at your place, just thinking of the future and people you may not have even met. I’m sure the clock will be an heirloom piece and should be around for a long time.
    Regards,
    Bob

    Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    66
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    12,881

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    Quote Originally Posted by Waldo View Post
    G’day Cliff,

    No. Mr Wongo said I can’t finish until everyone’s vaccinated.

    Is it that long since I won that Mulga in the Free Prize Draw? You could always send it down. I was up there 2 years ago, but I didn’t get out to the tablelands.
    I will get it to you somehow one day.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    In the shed, Melbourne
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    52
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    6,883

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    G’day Yvan,

    The panels are about 70mm wide, I think without checking anything. I was surprised, Fujian Mahogany is surprisingly light. I’d take a guess that it’s near the weight of Qld Silky Oak.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  6. #50
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    Mar 2005
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    G’day Bob38S,

    There’s a fair bit to go yet. I’m not concerned regarding stability with the footprint etc. I’m next working on the pedestal base which adds a fair bit of weight in itself. An upcoming update will explain this further in detail. But your question does pose a good question of how might I ensure that it’s got more bottom weight to make sure it’s stable? Maybe even a metal plate of some sort on the underside of the base?

    I’m hoping one of my kids will want to inherit it later on. I set out to make it with this sole intention.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  7. #51
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
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    6,883

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    I will get it to you somehow one day.
    No rush, hasn’t been any to date, so why now? 👍
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,879

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    Quote Originally Posted by Waldo View Post
    No. Mr Wongo said I can’t finish until everyone’s vaccinated.
    Nice work Waldo. No rush. You can finish it in 3 years.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Queensland
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    Just a thought with regards stability, should you pedestal be hollow and have some depth, in the old days lead shot, which comes in bags would be used. Plenty of weight with minimal volume and shouldn’t cost you a kidney to buy.

    Lead shot can be bought as a reloading component from most gun shops. The advantage of lead shot is that, it comes in bags which can simply be placed in the hollow pedestal, failing that if you are pushed for room the shot could be poured loosely into the base. If you wished to make it permanent and the idea of loose shot does not appeal, fill the gaps with casting resin.
    Regards,
    Bob

    Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    6,883

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob38S View Post
    Just a thought with regards stability, should you pedestal be hollow and have some depth, in the old days lead shot, which comes in bags would be used. Plenty of weight with minimal volume and shouldn’t cost you a kidney to buy.

    Lead shot can be bought as a reloading component from most gun shops. The advantage of lead shot is that, it comes in bags which can simply be placed in the hollow pedestal, failing that if you are pushed for room the shot could be poured loosely into the base. If you wished to make it permanent and the idea of loose shot does not appeal, fill the gaps with casting resin.
    That’s a fantastic idea, Bob38S. Two thumbs up for that one 👍
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  11. #55
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    Nice work Waldo. No rush. You can finish it in 3 years.
    Wongo my dear friend, the grandfather clock just had a sudden catastrophe occur. My Triton TRA001 has died, and until I find something to fit into the Incra lift, it’s on a hold.

    Pretty much every element going forward requires routing, damn it. 😞

  12. #56
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    Aug 2005
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    Queensland
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    You’re welcome re the lead shot.

    Re the Triton, think Hitachi TR12, either fixed or variable speed.
    Regards,
    Bob

    Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Default

    With not much happening while I wait for the brushes for the router to arrive from England, I thought I'd put this teaser up. These will be the base and cap for the column.

    IMG_6868.jpg

    No I didn't carve them myself. After a heck of a lot of searching online, I found a place on Etsy in China that makes such things. They were made to order, as in not the size they supplied at and in African Mahogany.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  14. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Default The base

    So I grabbed Dj's spare Triton a few weeks ago and got back into the shed to get the grandfather clock back into action.

    I'd spent a lot of time trying to work out how I might tackle the base of the grandfather clock. I was never going to be happy with a base that didn't have some sort of finesse and feet to it, like the Sketchup model I created (and no, I've got no idea how to create and arcs and match them to tangents etc., my hack is to do it in Illustrator, then export it out as something, import that in Sketchup and the extrude it out)

    Screen Shot 2021-03-22 at 5.48.57 pm.png

    So spent a heck of a lot of time searching and looking at Youtube videos about grandfather clocks to try and find some inspiration, and then I found this Regency table and I really liked how the apron is treated and decided this is what I wanted to do.

    IMG_3424.jpg

    I next built up what's really the guts of the base

    IMG_6959.jpg

    Fixed to the underneath of the base are spotted gum cleats, these will fit into the rabbets on the inside of the front and side skirts

    IMG_6956.jpg

    Next up was to work out what profiles I was going to use to create the mouldings of the skirts from the bits I have on hand

    IMG_6958.jpg

    The next part of the base was to start on the skirts. I always like to have the grain to run left to right and match up. So I went through the boards, looked for some with fiddleback and traced the template

    IMG_6972.jpg

    With them roughed out on the bandsaw (can you love a bandsaw? I recently got an 18" bandsaw from Gregory's Machinery in Brisbane and it purrs like a kitten) and put them through the router with the MDF template for each skirt. You can see on the inside of face of the skirts the rabbet, this is where the cleat I described earlier mates into.

    IMG_6973.jpg IMG_6975.jpg IMG_6977.jpg

    And then over 2 weeks glued and screwed the skirts to the base. Given the skirts are mitred and there's a bit of stress on the mitres, I decided to leave each glue up for a week in the clamps. I've not used hide glue before where the components are under stress, so I decided to go with caution. This glue up gave me no end of stress, trying to see if I had things lined up as good as I could, without being able to see if I was or not, and so it took several attempts to get it clamped as best as I could and lots of shouting at myself, at the clamps and at anything else that annoyed me at the time.

    IMG_6978.jpg IMG_6996.jpg

    There are a few gaps in the mitred edges and elsewhere (couldn't see these in the glue) so I'll make a concoction of white glue and mahogany sawdust to fill these. In a perfect world I wouldn't have to, but that's life.

    IMG_7016.jpg

    In the next post I'll detail the construction of the dial trim panel.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  15. #59
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Default Dial Trim Panel

    It's about time I got back in here and updated things, poor Wongo is probably beside himself waiting for me to update you lot.

    The dial trim panel is probably the most important thing of this build, because where it goes sets off the rest of the thing. Get the panel wrong in the construction and size, or position in at the wrong place, even by a bit of a mm can turn into a catastrophe. So I went back numerous times to check to the size of the clock movement, related to the housing that it sits on, where that is in relation to the dial trim panel etc. and then checked many times over the Sketchup model I'd created.

    When I had high confidence about all of that I was ready to start of the dial trim panel.

    Here I'm looking at the paper template I'd traced from the dial face and setting it against the components of the dial trim panel before I used the template to rout out the stock.

    IMG_6984.jpg


    Next steps sequentially are hopefully self-explanatory.

    IMG_6986.jpgIMG_6987.jpg IMG_6994.jpgIMG_6997.jpg

    What's not shown is the rabbet that I routered on the underside of the dial trim panel to accept the dial.

    And this is where I hit a stuff up. When I checked the rabbet after I had routered it against the cardboard template for the dial, I found the rabbet was shy by a few mm. Thankfully I found this and was able to early fix it.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  16. #60
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    In the shed, Melbourne
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    Default Dial Trim Panel installed

    Then fast forward a week when I let the dial trim panel sit in it's clamps for a week, mostly because the next opportunity to continue work on the grandfather clock was the next weekend.

    Sanding is a process I like and I'm annal about it and step through 240 right down to 1500 until the stock is like a mirror.

    IMG_7050.jpg

    Then it's time to fit and screw the thing home. At the moment it's still only screwed in. I'm thinking I'll go back, take it out and glue and screw it in. Thoughts?

    IMG_7051.jpg
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

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