Thread: Waldo’s Grandfather clock

Sorry to “hear” that.

I know that you will pull it all together and go for it again, this episode now just becomes part of the clock’s history.

Just remember, like in a distillery, to always have/leave a bit extra. It’s often referred to as the “Angel’s Cut”

G’day Bob,

Wise words, my fault goes back to forgetting the extra allowance I forgot to add on the router templates, so before I shut the shed up yesterday I went back and added the extra needed to the templates.

I’ll move next onto the movement seat board and it’s other components.

That’s a bummer Waldo. Like the 100mm tape measure trick. Spose one good thing is you’ll get it right on the real thing.
Good luck. That’s what prompted my question previously (#74) , so you can blame me if it makes it feel better!

This is another step, where I took everything about slow and careful, everything in the clock is built around the seat board mounting cleats being exact in their dimension and exact in where they go and ensuring they're also exact in relation to each other, so that finally when I get there, that the clock movement is in the right spot relative to the dial trim panel etc. etc.

I had some American White Oak, sitting around from a project I haven't yet finished, so I thought it'd be a good use in here.

Shots tell the story.

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It had always bugged me how I had this unsightly area of the frame where it fixes to the base. You wouldn't necessarily see it from the outside of the clock, but it'd be there like a great sore thumb when you opened the door.

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So I looked around on the clock to look at the profiles I'd used elsewhere and settled on the trim caps that are fixed to the base.

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I was much happier now that the inside looked a whole lot neater and better finished, it also meant that I was able to cover the screws that fixed the frame to the base. In the videos I've watched online from YouTube of Delaney Clocks and others, I had never seen this done on the inside of the base. But that doesn't mean that I can't.

My big stuff up has been a blessing in disguise and if I had gone ahead with things as they were I might've missed something, and this is where I need your thoughts.

Looking at the left of Sketchup model, where the column end post meets the split crown frame, it all lines up nicely to each other on the vertical, i.e. column, to column end cap, to the crown frame.

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But forget the column end post, I'm not installing it (at least not at this stage, however it does help bring the end cap to a nice horizontal with the hands of the clock (and its position is marked by the hole in the middle of what is the dial trim panel.

But, if you look at the shots below, what you'll notice is that looking above looks fine

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Until you look side on and I realised that the end cap sits out pretty badly from the crown frame.

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Mulling over this, I went back to clocks on YouTube from Delaney Clocks and found where some clocks have deep crown frames to accomodate the size of the end caps. So I tried this in Sketchup, so looking back up at the sketch model and to the right side, you might see by allowing for a deeper crown frame and allowing for the extra width of the crown frame, that the column etc. now wouldn't be on the nice vertical alignment. It also began very top heavy (see below).

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So I hadn't yet figured this out that I could sleep happily on it. The other thing, that by increasing the depth of the crown frame, it means about an extra $350 on the mahogany that I'd need.

So, with a bit more wondering I think I'm at the stage where the solution I have could be what I'm after, but I've not really seen any grandfather clocks that have this.

And it's below.

It's pretty much like putting a cap on the column cap, and from front on, it looks alright (but most people aren't my height, so they won't see things from this view. What I've done is use the finial mounting plate and refused it here. It's not to the width the cap needs to be, but it's approximate.

There is a bit more extra width I need to create so that the split crown moulding is right this time, but I'll still be able to centre the column and end cap and the cap to the centre of the return on the split crown frame so that it looks aesthetically right.

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It means I don't have to increase the depth of the split crown frame and I don't need a lot more timber at too much extra cost (still about $350 to create the mouldings all over again)

Side on, there's still a jump from the split crown frame to the column cap, but I think it looks better.

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So, thoughts anyone?

Another possibility would be to scribe in the end of the column to blend with the moulding.

Of course, this means the columns would be taller and it would change the overall look... but so does what you're proposing.

At least trying it out in Sketchup only costs some time & electrons.

Thanks for the pics Waldo. I think I know what you’re describing but just off the top of my head the only scrap of an idea I can think of is to make a heavier column but set it back some. Maybe at the corner? Could the back side be cut out to fit case? Hopefully any suggestions give you the seeds to move forward. Good luck
BTW, respect for your skills in Sketchup

I had thought of that Skew, but after a lot of thought I’ve never seen anything like that before, so I went about pondering other such musings.

The flat on top of the capitals looks wrong to me and draws my eye to 'em.

Perhaps a combination of yours & mine... make those little capitals, but have 'em a bit taller and scribe them into the moulding? Maybe rout a cove into the top edges as well, to get rid of the step and taper 'em back into the moulding, making 'em less obtrusive?


BTW, awesome job so far! Stumbling blocks like this are a PITA, but I guess that's what makes these sort of projects a challenge, eh?

Having a step between the top of the pillar and the moulding is not unusual on clocks. Mine has one.

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To me, it’s the fact that it’s resting near fancy moulding and actually on a half round section of moulding that looks out of place. If it’s going to join the moulding IMO it should blend in somewhat.

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You can see on mine there is no fancy moulding around the top of the pillar so it tends to blend in.
As you say, when looking from the front it’s hardly seen.

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G’day Lappa,

thanks for taking the time to show your clock and reply too. I’ve been playing in SketchUp this arvo and think I might have a solution, after the feedback that everyone’s taken the time to give. But it’ll be a weekend before I get more shed time and the chance to play with my idea and put it up in here for the further wisdom of you lot.

Left field thought again, any thoughts given to soften the transition by adding a detail on top of the projection.

A smaller square, round or very small finial. A play around on your sketch up program could be of benefit.

I sympathise with your problems Waldo. Cant offer any suggestions, but enjoying watching your progress.