Thread: My Wooden geared clock

Hi Dean
Good to hear the clock is ticking again
Correct me if I am wrong here with the electronics.
It is meant to keep a clock running on time not as a way of driving the clock? So what I am thinking is if the clock runs with 10kg and no electronics would it not work better with the same weight and electronics but now keep accurate time and use very little battery power to do this and there fore run for the year that the maker of the electronic claims?
Just my $0.02 worth

Russell

Russell, Dick only recently revealed to me that before he perfected the circuit that reuglates only, he spent time working on a circuit that had an adjustable pulse. This immediately appealed to me because finally i could use some electronics to reduce the amount of weight that was required to run it. If this circuit works to get the clock within that 5% acccuracy then I can try to use the second circuit to regulate the first. For me that would be the perfect setup.! Just my $49.95 worth....!
Dean.

Photos Dean?
You know the rules.

Sorry bout the lack of photographic evidence of late! there is not much to show. The clock now runs on 4kg and will do so for as long as the weights last about 16hrs or so. However he clock is running slow. The issue is that the escarpment has been bolted to the shaft not at exactly 90 degress. As a result the top of the escarpment is hitting the top 40mm dowell and kinda bouncing off at the end of its stroke. To fix that I will have to reposition it. I might as well at the same time make that extra long spacer for the timing wheel; that will enable me to drill a fresh hole, this time hopefull in the right position. I have started the handwheel today and will post a pic of the center hub when done.

Dean.

While dismanteling the clock again I discovered that my hour gear had tightened up somehow. So prephaps that 4ks can be reduced somewhat . We will see. I have made the first part of my handwheel design. This is used to wind up the weights. I have made the center hub only. Each of the six spokes will fit into this and be fastened with a Torx M4 countersunk screw and nut. The hub will have to be turned upside down and put back on the CNC to have the nut recesses cut. Not sure whether this design is any good. Would prefer if there was an extra lap on both parts. That will be next week.


Dean.

Spent the weekend making a longer drum that connects the escarpment to the timing wheel. Re-pinned the escarpment after I found that the escarpment was not 90 degress to the Yoke and so during its operation the LHS top of the escarpment would hit the top dowell. I pulled it out and discovered that it was 3.5mm divided by 2 out!. Not much. I remeasured re-pinned and re-assembled the clock and now the other side is too close during operation!.Damm it!. If needed I will make an adjuster that allows me to rotate the escarpment so that the gap is even on both sides.

More later.
Dean
Love that sextus clock of clean machine!!.

Originally Posted by 1964deano

If needed I will make an adjuster that allows me to rotate the escarpment so that the gap is even on both sides.

Might be easier to stick a blob of bluetack on one arm of the escarpment and let gravity make the adjustment for you.

I know blue tack works to balance ceiling fans.

Cheers

That might be an idea! stick it inside the bob.

Dean.

That might work too. As you can imagine, you can add to and take away from the blue tack to get it just right. Once you've found what weight you need, you can then decide what to use and how much for a permanent fix.

Having said that last bit though, the ceiling fan that I balanced with the blue tack, still has that blue tack to this day, as far as I know. (We don't live in that house any more)

Cheers

Thanks Rod I may well have to do this...For the moment I have the clock keeping good time so I have avoided making any mods to the escarpment. I had to move the pendulum bob up a little(see pic 1 original pic 2 current). Using the electronic circuit (pic 3) as the main pulse supply plus a lttle push from the 4kgs of weight the clock is more or less running on time! Finally.The little blue trim pot pic 3 is how the duration of the pulse is adjusted. Duration here is equal to strength. So the longer the pulse the sronger the pulse is. The position of the bob means that its no where near that 1 meter balancing point that traditional clocks require. Thats fine by me. Pic 4 shows where I moved the timing wheel to.
Next after running the clock this week I will try to incorporate the 2nd circuit which will regulate the first.


Dean.

Where are the electronics Dean? On the base of the pendulum? out of shot. I presume.

Sorry here is a previous shot of where the electronics are located. Curently the pendulum is located higher up.

Dean.

Originally Posted by 1964deano

The position of the bob means that its no where near that 1 meter balancing point that traditional clocks require.

So someone gave you an inadvertent bum steer?

Hopefully this gets you close, or right on now. It's been a long road eh.

Cheers

No one gave me a bum steer; I have decided to change the whole design and how the clock is powered. From using gravity to gravity and electronics to power the pendulum. I guess when you alter a tried and true design you will have to accept some work to achieve a desirable end.
Dean.