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  1. #16
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    Thanks Matt..originally used the joint on a knife block...as pictured. I used the Leigh d4 isoloc jig. It was very tricky trying to use the jig in a manner it was not designed to do, but i persevered and it worked well. The first time i used the idea was to join the main member to form a giant T so that i could cut the rear support T for the clock. I also used this method to repair the front frame when it was accidentally broken. Came in real handy when i didn't have to re-make the whole bit; not to mention cheaper!

    [/IMG]


    Finally i have used the trisoloc joint in a round form to make the pendulum; Ever since I made the knife block I have dreamed of making a round form of the isolock joint. Finally i have succeeded.
    Dean.
    Last edited by 1964deano; 18th December 2011 at 10:15 PM. Reason: add pictures

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  3. #17
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    So as usual i rushed in and changed a part of my clock i did not like...the pendulum hanger. Today i finally finished my pendulum( took all day to get the cnc to cut it out) and pinned my yoke to escapment shaft. It was the first time in almost 2 years i have been finally able to see if my clock would work....Well i discoverd that i have to change my pendulum set up and add some weight to the top of my pendulum arrangement so that it is actually balanced.....still excited though.....dial in the final stages of design....

    Dean.

  4. #18
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1964deano View Post
    So as usual i rushed in and changed a part of my clock i did not like...the pendulum hanger. Today i finally finished my pendulum( took all day to get the cnc to cut it out) and pinned my yoke to escapment shaft. It was the first time in almost 2 years i have been finally able to see if my clock would work....Well i discoverd that i have to change my pendulum set up and add some weight to the top of my pendulum arrangement so that it is actually balanced.....still excited though.....dial in the final stages of design....

    Dean.
    But were is the photo please Dean.......thank you....cheers, crowie

  5. #19
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    Sorry about that was leaving to go on holidays. ....here are some pics of the finished pendulum. I have only realized for the clock weight to successfully impart motion to the pendulum it needs to be perfectly balanced. In my case i have used the formula M=FD to help me calculate the leaver arm and its corresponding weight opposite the pendulum ie above it to help balance it. The pendulum is made in two parts from purple heart and birds eye rock maple and will be glued when i am confident the whole mechanism works. You will notice in the second picture how the inner pendulum (the white timber bit) in raised in one and lowered in the other; this was an accident that will very much help the two pieces of the pendulum align perfectly when it is glued. I have changed the pendulum hanger so that the middle segment runs on two bearings which turn freely and stop the pendulum form rotating.
    cheers for now.




    Dean

  6. #20
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    When i first started making clock I made the mistake of printing every wheel out.



    I discovered that every 60Tooth gears were warped! I set out to design a way to reduce the warp. I came up with a design to make the gears from 4-5 pieces that were joined in a way that would best handle seasonal movement and changes in humidity.



    [IMG][/IMG]
    The fit between the joint is .1mm...a good thing the CNC cuts it out. The joint is barely visible in the finished wheel.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    The pic shows a 5 spoke design...my feeling is that I have rushed in and made a number of 4 spoke trisoloc designed wheels and have now discovered that a 5 spoke design is even better! The stock pictured is for the timing wheel and should be done in a couple of days.

    Its early days yet but I am pleased with the results. See the Youtube vid to see the difference between a standard gear cut from 1 piece of timber compared to one that featured my trisoloc design.Trisoloc design.avi - YouTube
    Last edited by 1964deano; 3rd January 2012 at 10:04 PM. Reason: insert pics

  7. #21
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    I have started to make the dial of my clock.....I did a trial run to see how the number spacing and size was and also see how the double knuckle or puzzle joint was. Well for some reason the diameter was 675 and not 604!!


    Up close the knuckle joint was good but still a bit gappy in the radius of some of the curves. I eventually discovered that a little button I had seen for ages in the software (but never used) to ensure that the STL files is processed at 1:1 scale was not pressed! Because I had faithfully copied the file 12 times i did get a result that fitted together but was way out of scale!

    The final dial is almost finished and is cut from huon pine....

    up close and personal..I have found huon pine to be rather squeaky when pressing the pieces together.

    All that needs to be done now is fit the dial pieces together in pairs and "liberate" them by using a drum sander to remove the excess timber down to 16mm....and fill each hole between the numbers with a small star.....and and...
    Dean.

  8. #22
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    Default New Trisoloc design video on youtube....

    I have redone the trisoloc design video on Youtube. This shows the difference between a standard gear cut from 1 piece of timber compared to one that featured my trisoloc design.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27Eau1-YfMk/

  9. #23
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    G'Day Dean,
    Your clock is starting to look even better.....very cleaver.
    Cheers, Crowie

  10. #24
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    Thanks Crowie..lucky i am on holidays.....Just finishing No11 now...
    Dean

  11. #25
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    Hi all here is the finished dial! Took a couple of days with various stuff-ups. Next jos the numbers & gluing. The joints are all good but a couple of gaps have appeared around the edges...suppose it will add to the character.
    cheers

    Dean.

  12. #26
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    Nice work! I really like the joints.
    cheers
    rosco

  13. #27
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    Thanks Rosco, it was the only way i could think of making a dial of 600mm in diameter and trying to avoid warping...tried to do this 6 years ago with little success. I used the same spacing to make my trisoloc gears and it worked....luckily

    Dean.
    Last edited by 1964deano; 12th January 2012 at 11:28 AM. Reason: addition of thoughts

  14. #28
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    Hi all finished the numbers today and finalized the dial attachment method. The original one appeared to be glued; not sufficient in my opinion. There are two of these and they are countersunk behind the 6 and 12.


    The numbers worked out very well. The ones out of Radiata pine were trial ones.

    Almost done....I like contrast between the Purple heart and the Huon pine...
    . Next are those little pesky stars that go between each number.
    cheers

    Dean.
    Last edited by 1964deano; 14th January 2012 at 07:17 PM. Reason: add picturers

  15. #29
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    Beautiful!

    Just been re-reading Longitude yet again, and never fail to be amazed by Harrison's early fully wooden chronographs - highly temp & humidity compensated, and self lubricated. Genius bloke.

    Keep up the good work!

    Cheers

    Si

  16. #30
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    Thanks Si, wasn't Longitude made into a movie? I am off to google Harrison and see what he was all about.
    Dean.

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