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Thread: My Wooden geared clock
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28th April 2012, 04:08 PM #76
Dean
A very beautiful looking clock, no mistake there
Weights and pendulums remember mentioning something about that...
What you are saying is the clock runs on 6kg with no rocker but wont run with 16 kg using the rocker and pendulum?
Russellvapourforge.com
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28th April 2012, 05:44 PM #77Senior Member
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What I am saying is that the clocks needs 6kg to move the timing wheel thereby turning the hands. The 16 kg i put on should have been enough to pulse the pendulum throug the escarpment; in other words it shoul be able to tick all on its own with that much weight. Why it doesnt beats me. I sure have enough bearings in it!
I have not yet installed the electro pendulum yet so I " pulsed" the pendulum by hand to see how much weight was needed to make the clock run. I am designing a housing to fit the electronic circuit, batteries and coil. It should be not much larger than the 4xD sized batteries that are used to run it.
Dean
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28th April 2012, 06:54 PM #78SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Deano
I am no clock expert, I am currently working on my first from a Clayton Boyer design. Having spent some time on Clayton's site and blog I think I can confidently say that it is the bearings/bushes that are causing the problem. It would be well worth your while visiting Wooden Gear Clock Plans from Hawaii by Clayton Boyer
and having a read.
Hope this helps
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28th April 2012, 07:19 PM #79Rocket (Rod)
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28th April 2012, 09:02 PM #80Senior Member
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I am Keen to reduce the weight overall; the less weight the better; better wear, less slump in the frame and less strain on the timing wheel and escarpment. I plan to leave the drum it's original size as I won't have to wind it as often.
I huonphil I don't think it's the bearings...I have $153 dollars worth of them! I think the design is poor, the weight is at the front of the fram rather than the rear for one. I have had laser cut acrylic templates cut to help me get the shaft centers spot on. Russell has had similar issues with getting his clock going as well. There are not many Brian laws clocks out there to look at. While there are many boyner resins kicking around. If I make another clock it won't be a laws one. Having said that I love this clock and it's size. It will be running spot on real soon.
Dean
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28th April 2012, 11:22 PM #81SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Dean
I wasn't implying a problem with the quality of the bearings, rather (if Clayton Boyer's experience is correct) that any bearing/bushing will increase the internal friction and hence increase the weight required to drive the clock. It seems counter intuitive but who knows.
One of the tests suggested to resolve a non running clock was to strip the clock down to one wheel/pinion in the frame which should rotate simply by blowing on the wheel. If you can achieve this without a bearing it should be relatively easy to prove whether adding a bearing helps or hinders.
Cheers
Philip.
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29th April 2012, 06:47 AM #82
Dean
It going to be interesting how much weight you will need to use with the electronic to make it run reliable.
One thing I did with my clock was put the drill on the hour shaft with the rock disengaged and drove it for 20 minutes. This was to run in the gears and gave the rocker and escapement wheel a very fine sand with a needle file ...yes in know not very wood workey but it seam to help it work.
Well I still interested in how the electronic work out.
Keep us posted
Russellvapourforge.com
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29th April 2012, 05:33 PM #83Senior Member
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Thanks for the comments..I have decided that the frame has slumped more that I realized and I am going to make a brace and go from there. The timing wheel does need a fine sand and wax that should make a difference.I have stripped down the frame and the gears were magic then but that was when it wasn't mounted on a wall!
I have tried the electronics and the pulse does seem a bit weak; I have emailed the carveshop to see what can be done to make the "pulse" stronger.
more soon
Dean.
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30th April 2012, 08:26 PM #84
Every thing I have read (which is not all that much) has said not to put any finishes on the working surfaces as this gums them up... I just worried about the wax you mentioned.
Russellvapourforge.com
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30th April 2012, 08:53 PM #85Senior Member
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Hi all just a quick update. Inserted a support under the clock tonight which made the shafts perpendicular to the frame added 11kg and FINALLY it decided to work! Its a great feeling after almost 3 years! It does make a funny sound though and discovered a small gap between the pendulum rod and the yoke. I wedged it and the clock refused to start! so i removed the wedge and away it went. I am not sure whats going on here. Anyways it tick tocks all on its own! Russell maybe I will give the wax a miss then? .
Dean.
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30th April 2012, 09:36 PM #86
Let me be the first to congratulate you
Good feeling or what.......
Now what to do with the electronics???
Russellvapourforge.com
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30th April 2012, 09:54 PM #87
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30th April 2012, 09:57 PM #88Senior Member
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I emailed Dick Bipes(the supplier of the electromagentic pendulum) hereafter referred to as the EP! about ways, if any, to increase the strength of the pulse. He replied today and gave a number of options including increasing the voltage to 12V, using a stronger magnet and increasing the coil size. I will now install the prototype housing under the pendulum and see how it goes. At least it can measure the accuracy and length of the pendulum swing.
Wow I got a clock that moves!!I will video it and put it Youtube tomorrow. Thanks for everyones encouragement. I like this online thing!
Dean.
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1st May 2012, 01:45 PM #89Senior Member
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Guys here is the link to my youtube video featuring footage of my clock
cheers
Dean
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_tRuyUK_wI"]Deans Wooden Clock - YouTube[/ame]
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1st May 2012, 01:56 PM #90
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