Page 8 of 35 FirstFirst ... 34567891011121318 ... LastLast
Results 106 to 120 of 514
  1. #106
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

    Default

    Hi all have almost finished re-designing the weight system. Will ost pics tomorrow. The rope that pulls the drum will now trave upwards till its hits the upper crossmember wrap around a wheel feed straight towards the wall turn left out 300mm and finally down. The original height it fell was 1850 now its 2450. Hopefully that will give me 2 days.
    I am now trying to source a clamp like the one I designed in the pic.

    The biggest challenge will be to try and house or fix a brass shaft into an aluminium body. I coulf make the clamp system out of mild steel but its so much harder to shape. If anyone has spotted a product that is close give us a bell. I have tried mountain bike stems (handlebars or gooosenecks close but not close enough) My hope is to re-engineer an alloy clamp to function like the orange bit in my picture.
    Any ideas welcome....

    Dean.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #107
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    Dean
    This is pretty hard to follow. Need some sizing
    Can you post a pic with the clock included?
    Just looking at what you put up with the weights you are dealing with that will be hard to make it strong enough (joining the yellow part onto the orange part). Maybe there is another way to do this, that the reason for the other pic to help us understand....
    vapourforge.com

  4. #108
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Mickleham
    Posts
    84

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1964deano View Post
    My hope is to re-engineer an alloy clamp to function like the orange bit in my picture.
    Any ideas welcome....

    Dean.
    Farm gate mounting clamp/saddle might be worth a look. But they are steel.

    http://www.nortongates.com.au/fittings.html You'll see a saddle in the top left pic.

    And antenna/mast mounting hardware could be a go too.

    http://www.zcg.com.au/antenna_mast_mounting_clamps.htm Scroll down the page to see some plate clamps.

    What's the diameter of the "pipe"?

    Cheers

  5. #109
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

    Default

    The diameter is 40mm. I was impressed by the clamps that mountainbike stems have but are too exe to buy just for this. Gate post too crude.....thanks fo the links. I like the antennna ones but they are SS. I will keep looking...thanks
    Dean.

  6. #110
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

    Default

    Ok here is an sensible update...Here are some pics that hopefully shown how this weight system works.
    The original system had a weight just falling of the drum.
    My first design concept had 2 weights going around 2 cogs then falling closer to the wall as pictured below..This did not allow enough run time.


    My second idea is to have the rope travel upward and around 2 cogs through the frame along the wall and then down. Hope some pictures paints a thousand words...




    The pic above shows the two wheels above the clock and the mini cogs in the middle. These mini cogs allow the rope to turn 90 degrees....



    My final task to completing this prototype is to make the attachement that will sit around the upper round dowl featured in the pic above. My idea today was to use a thin wall mild steel pipe and weld some shafts onto it and cover it up with timer.
    Dean.

  7. #111
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Mickleham
    Posts
    84

    Default

    You may have already thought of this.

    Use some 6 or 8 mm all thread, drill a hole (slight interference fit may be best) through the top dowel and thread the all thread through, slip a sleeve on each end of the all thread for the cogs to turn on and finish off with cap nuts or such on each end. Use spacer washers if/where needed.

    Just a thought.

    Cheers

  8. #112
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

    Default

    Thanks Rod...I have thought of that but am thinking that while a rod may be the best option it is not good upon re-assembly if the 40mm purpleheart dowel does not tighten in the exact place it was when the holes was drilled! It might mean that while the dowl is re- tightened the axel and the attached two cogs are not off level; a situation that is not easily remedied!. Hence my alternative of having the whole wheel attachement device that can be adjusteded around the dowl rather than permanently fixed. Hope this makes sense.

    dean.

  9. #113
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Mickleham
    Posts
    84

    Default

    That does make sense Dean.

    Would having the axle running over the top or under the bottom of the dowel work?

    What I am thinking here is a U bolt going through a plate to which the axle is welded.

    Here's a rough drawing which I hope explains it.

    You could have the axle forward or rearward of the plate, on top or underneath the dowel.

    Cheers

  10. #114
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

    Default

    Thanks Rod hadnt thought of that.....the bottom would be better rather than the top. Asthetically it would be harder to hide the steel. The plate would have to be rounded to suit the 40mm doel to increase surface area to prevent slipping.

    Dean.

  11. #115
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Mickleham
    Posts
    84

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1964deano View Post
    Asthetically it would be harder to hide the steel
    This may need to be a compromise. I'm thinking using any kind of timber might not give the strength that would be needed.

    The plate would have to be rounded to suit the 40mm doel to increase surface area to prevent slipping.
    If you use the U bolt, you shouldn't have a problem with grip, as I see it. Just nip the nuts up firm enough.

    A U bolt has enough grip to stop a roller door axle from rotating, and I can tell you, there's a lot of force going through the U bolt from the door's spring.

    Cheers

  12. #116
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

    Default

    I agree a u bolt would be adequate but not pretty enough for me....here is what I have in mind to cover my steel work up. Hopefully it will be made from purple heart.

    Dean.

  13. #117
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Mickleham
    Posts
    84

    Default

    I'm guessing the cross shaped part is what you intend to make out of purple heart.

    I would be tempted to leave the wood between each leg in.

    I'm thinking the sharp corners where the legs join the axle boss, could be weak/fracture points.

    If you are making it out of metal, then please disregard the above.

    Cheers

  14. #118
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

    Default

    No the whole thing will be wood..whether it can take the presure of being clamped up or not is another thing...

    Dean.

  15. #119
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    Hi Dean
    I see only one way and it has to be keep simple.
    You take one block of wood bore a 40mm hole then drill the bolt and axil holes
    Them cut it in half and clamp onto clock. see attached
    You can dress it up a bit but do not weaken the base structured.
    A 2nd thought;
    Can you not or do not want to drill a hole through the 40mm rod and put the axil in use no clamps?

    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  16. #120
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

    Default

    While a rod may be the best option it is not good upon re-assembly if the 40mm purpleheart dowel does not tighten in the exact place it was when the holes was drilled! It might mean that while the dowl is re- tightened the axel and the attached two cogs are not off level; a situation that is not easily remedied!. Hence my alternative of having the whole wheel attachement device that can be adjusteded around the dowl rather than permanently fixed. Yes my design is similar to yours Russell but will hopefully incorporate metal and steel into the same package.I agree KISS....
    Dean

Page 8 of 35 FirstFirst ... 34567891011121318 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Wooden clock
    By Bear Stone in forum CLOCKS
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 25th July 2011, 08:26 PM
  2. New Wooden Clock
    By Davethenose in forum ANNOUNCEMENTS
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 23rd November 2010, 07:37 PM
  3. Wooden geared clock -spring driven
    By nine fingers in forum CLOCKS
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 3rd November 2009, 04:29 PM
  4. Big wooden clock
    By nine fingers in forum CLOCKS
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 29th January 2009, 01:00 AM
  5. wooden geared clock
    By nine fingers in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 4th July 2006, 02:24 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •