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Thread: My Wooden geared clock
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8th May 2012, 09:11 PM #106
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Hi all have almost finished re-designing the weight system. Will ost pics tomorrow. The rope that pulls the drum will now trave upwards till its hits the upper crossmember wrap around a wheel feed straight towards the wall turn left out 300mm and finally down. The original height it fell was 1850 now its 2450. Hopefully that will give me 2 days.
I am now trying to source a clamp like the one I designed in the pic.
The biggest challenge will be to try and house or fix a brass shaft into an aluminium body. I coulf make the clamp system out of mild steel but its so much harder to shape. If anyone has spotted a product that is close give us a bell. I have tried mountain bike stems (handlebars or gooosenecks close but not close enough) My hope is to re-engineer an alloy clamp to function like the orange bit in my picture.
Any ideas welcome....
Dean.
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8th May 2012, 09:22 PM #107
Dean
This is pretty hard to follow. Need some sizing
Can you post a pic with the clock included?
Just looking at what you put up with the weights you are dealing with that will be hard to make it strong enough (joining the yellow part onto the orange part). Maybe there is another way to do this, that the reason for the other pic to help us understand....vapourforge.com
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8th May 2012, 10:43 PM #108
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Farm gate mounting clamp/saddle might be worth a look. But they are steel.
http://www.nortongates.com.au/fittings.html You'll see a saddle in the top left pic.
And antenna/mast mounting hardware could be a go too.
http://www.zcg.com.au/antenna_mast_mounting_clamps.htm Scroll down the page to see some plate clamps.
What's the diameter of the "pipe"?
Cheers
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9th May 2012, 12:05 AM #109
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The diameter is 40mm. I was impressed by the clamps that mountainbike stems have but are too exe to buy just for this. Gate post too crude.....thanks fo the links. I like the antennna ones but they are SS. I will keep looking...thanks
Dean.
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9th May 2012, 08:26 PM #110
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Ok here is an sensible update...Here are some pics that hopefully shown how this weight system works.
The original system had a weight just falling of the drum.
My first design concept had 2 weights going around 2 cogs then falling closer to the wall as pictured below..This did not allow enough run time.
My second idea is to have the rope travel upward and around 2 cogs through the frame along the wall and then down. Hope some pictures paints a thousand words...
The pic above shows the two wheels above the clock and the mini cogs in the middle. These mini cogs allow the rope to turn 90 degrees....
My final task to completing this prototype is to make the attachement that will sit around the upper round dowl featured in the pic above. My idea today was to use a thin wall mild steel pipe and weld some shafts onto it and cover it up with timer.
Dean.
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9th May 2012, 09:08 PM #111
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You may have already thought of this.
Use some 6 or 8 mm all thread, drill a hole (slight interference fit may be best) through the top dowel and thread the all thread through, slip a sleeve on each end of the all thread for the cogs to turn on and finish off with cap nuts or such on each end. Use spacer washers if/where needed.
Just a thought.
Cheers
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9th May 2012, 09:14 PM #112
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Thanks Rod...I have thought of that but am thinking that while a rod may be the best option it is not good upon re-assembly if the 40mm purpleheart dowel does not tighten in the exact place it was when the holes was drilled! It might mean that while the dowl is re- tightened the axel and the attached two cogs are not off level; a situation that is not easily remedied!. Hence my alternative of having the whole wheel attachement device that can be adjusteded around the dowl rather than permanently fixed. Hope this makes sense.
dean.
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9th May 2012, 09:51 PM #113
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That does make sense Dean.
Would having the axle running over the top or under the bottom of the dowel work?
What I am thinking here is a U bolt going through a plate to which the axle is welded.
Here's a rough drawing which I hope explains it.
You could have the axle forward or rearward of the plate, on top or underneath the dowel.
Cheers
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9th May 2012, 10:06 PM #114
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Thanks Rod hadnt thought of that.....the bottom would be better rather than the top. Asthetically it would be harder to hide the steel. The plate would have to be rounded to suit the 40mm doel to increase surface area to prevent slipping.
Dean.
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9th May 2012, 10:20 PM #115
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This may need to be a compromise. I'm thinking using any kind of timber might not give the strength that would be needed.
The plate would have to be rounded to suit the 40mm doel to increase surface area to prevent slipping.
A U bolt has enough grip to stop a roller door axle from rotating, and I can tell you, there's a lot of force going through the U bolt from the door's spring.
Cheers
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9th May 2012, 11:16 PM #116
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I agree a u bolt would be adequate but not pretty enough for me....here is what I have in mind to cover my steel work up. Hopefully it will be made from purple heart.
Dean.
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9th May 2012, 11:25 PM #117
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I'm guessing the cross shaped part is what you intend to make out of purple heart.
I would be tempted to leave the wood between each leg in.
I'm thinking the sharp corners where the legs join the axle boss, could be weak/fracture points.
If you are making it out of metal, then please disregard the above.
Cheers
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10th May 2012, 08:52 AM #118
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No the whole thing will be wood..whether it can take the presure of being clamped up or not is another thing...
Dean.
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10th May 2012, 10:12 AM #119
Hi Dean
I see only one way and it has to be keep simple.
You take one block of wood bore a 40mm hole then drill the bolt and axil holes
Them cut it in half and clamp onto clock. see attached
You can dress it up a bit but do not weaken the base structured.
A 2nd thought;
Can you not or do not want to drill a hole through the 40mm rod and put the axil in use no clamps?
Russellvapourforge.com
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10th May 2012, 12:28 PM #120
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While a rod may be the best option it is not good upon re-assembly if the 40mm purpleheart dowel does not tighten in the exact place it was when the holes was drilled! It might mean that while the dowl is re- tightened the axel and the attached two cogs are not off level; a situation that is not easily remedied!. Hence my alternative of having the whole wheel attachement device that can be adjusteded around the dowl rather than permanently fixed. Yes my design is similar to yours Russell but will hopefully incorporate metal and steel into the same package.I agree KISS....
Dean
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