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  1. #121
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    Nov 2011
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    Mickleham
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    84

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    As per Russell's idea, I guess you don't have to have the axle in the centre of the block. By moving the axle either up or down, you can get some more meat around the axle, providing additional support.

    Cheers

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  3. #122
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

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    Dean been thinking re you design post 116 and you want for metal. My mill can cut this out of billet aluminium and then add a brass shaft. If yours can not and you want to go that way, even got the polish gear if you want.

    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  4. #123
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

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    Thanks Russell thats a generous offer....I would love the top cover plate to be made from some ally.....would look good against the purple heart. Lets talk more. Tonight I have been finalising the inner steel sleeve design and found some more issues to sort out. I found some 40mm tube today that is perfect for the job and will weld the axels on tomorrow morning. I will be able to wire up and hang some weights tomorrow night.
    cheers

    Dean.

  5. #124
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

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    Hi all, here is a quick update. Have finished the upper mount for the wheels to sit on. It sits well and should be able to support the 5 kg.


    Looks like the mini cogs need to be angled down some more or re-desgn the axel housing so that it sits on top of the 40mm purple heart frame bit.



    Dont have the weights to test so will have to weight till monday...

    Dean.

  6. #125
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

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    Dean
    I agree that the axle needs to move up to line up with the mini cogs. You can then use one piece axle across the top of your clamp, Much stronger this way.
    What is the white string in photo?
    Re;Quote
    "Thanks Russell thats a generous offer....I would love the top cover plate to be made from some ally.....would look good against the purple heart. Lets talk more."
    You still got my number, If so call when you are ready or PM me and we can make plans.



    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  7. #126
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

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    The string holds each axel in place when i take the front frame off; otherwise the axels sag and bend the bearings. It also help in re-assembling. I will call soon.
    Dean

  8. #127
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Mickleham
    Posts
    84

    Default

    Novel way to fit the axle assembly. Good to see you solved the problem.

    Cheers

  9. #128
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

    Default

    Thanks Rod,,actually decided to mount the shaft above the 40mm purplheart dowel. So its back to the solid modelling for now. As indicated the upper wheels are a bit too low. One problem solved another discovered. After testing the final weight wheels solution and finding it worked by and large I decided to remove my escarpment and see how much weight would be needed to move the gears. Inspired by john from post #98 ......"Dean, If your clock needs 6kg to turn the timing wheel you have, arbors and bearings are out of alinement, 1 kg should be enough to spin the timing wheel without the escapement attached. I designed my own clock, all Lignum Vitae (timber)bearing and arbors , running time with 2, 5kg weighs is over 70 hours now 6 years old , no signs of wear. John. I decided to put that to the test. I soon discovered why my clock wouldnt run on just 1KG. My ratched wheel is the problem. Its the only wheel that is not bearing mounted! and during the free weight test I discovered the ratched wheel (the one you use to wind the weights up) was jambing. I was under the impression that this gear did not turn with the rest of the clock; i thought that it only turned when you wound up the weights. Wrong!! It turns all the time. It now needs a complete re-design based on a square shaft arrangement. Other than that all is well other than the fact I accidently pushed my hour gear off the kitched table and now it is in 5 pieces....buggar...

    Dean..

  10. #129
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

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    I know it's a pain... but it good you found where the friction was coming from.
    It is a sh*/t about broken the gear

    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  11. #130
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

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    Here is a pic of my broken hour gear....

    The missing half is in about 5 pieces; it literally shattered. It must have been dry. I guess its an opportunity to make another 5 spoke wheel for the front of the clock. Because of the design of the new gear being made form 5 pieces of timber I know it wont explode if it gets knocket off any table.....not that I am planning to do that again any time soon.
    Will spend this week re-making this and post the results. (the threadded bit is where the hour hand is attached).

    cheers
    Dean.

  12. #131
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

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    Hi all here is a quick update on the weight wheels. These wheels will transger the 10 kg to the drum which powers the clock. There are four in all. They all have a bearing which is press fitted into place. Next the ally insert is fixed using two brass screws; this tacky arrangement is covered up with the cover plate which is held in place by 5 torx crews. The 6mm torx screw uses the spacer to hold the wheel against the bearing and holds it in place. Rather like those torx fastners.
    .




    To finish the wheels they need a groove to hold the line in place.


    Dean

  13. #132
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    Dean
    I like the pulleys, well engineered.
    How the replacement for the broken gear coming?

    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  14. #133
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

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    I got just about all the way to finishing when I noticed I had made an incorrect measurement! Buggar will have to start all over again next week.
    Dean.

  15. #134
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

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    Hi all just a quick update regarding the pully clamp. Here are some of the designs Russell & I has come up with





    The second idea was mine but not that good. The first one was a response as to having the axel above the dowell rather that have it in the middle. The third pic is Russells brilliant design! Its soo much better than my initial idea. The last pic shows the engraving that will become part of the design. Hopefully Russell will be generously making the pulley clamp sometime time this week. Will post the final result soon. I must say this is a great forum to belong to! Such generous people!

    Dean.

  16. #135
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    408

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    Hi all here is an update on my replacement hour gear.
    Pic 1 shows the 5 pieces that make up the stock.
    Pic 2 shows pieces 2,3&5 glued up and 1&5. I have found it more successful this way rather than try and press 1 final piece rather than 2. (does this make any sense?) to me it does!

    Pic 3 shows the final completed stock for the gear.

    The two holes in the stock are for locating the stock exacly to allow the gear to be cut out perfectly; these two holes have saved me hours in trying to align up the stock by trial and error.

    Final pics tomorrow! finally!


    cheers
    Dean.

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