Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
    Age
    67
    Posts
    805

    Default BETH - rudder's hardware details

    Hi Boatmik and All,

    I'm looking for pictures of details of Beth rudder's hardware.

    There are fine photos of details of GIS and PDRacer:
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...=78000&page=13

    In set of plans of Beth are not detailed drawing of this gear.
    See attachement - scan from plans - hardware drawn by doted lines, without dimensions...
    Have you any detailed drawings, sketches or photos of this?

    Can you help me?

    For example additional attachement from book of Polish well known boat designer M.Plucinski.
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy Robert,

    This is in America, but something like this for the back of the boat ... I just bent them wider for the ones on the back of the boat. Same for the rudder too and a pin that goes through all of them.

    http://www.marine.com/ronstan-rudder...ch-p-4834.html

    There are a few different manufacturers that use similar designs ... one is shown in your attachment above.

    Just trim the pin off so it is shorter than the length to the bottom of the boat.

    Oh ... and only the stainless steel fittings can be bent. Don't bend the aluminium ones!!!!!

    MIK

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
    Age
    67
    Posts
    805

    Default

    Thank you Michael!
    It is helpful for me.
    One question else:
    How thickness of steel? - 2 mm will be enough IMHO for this small boat (???)

    Certainly - aluminium is not good for this pourpose
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

    Default

    The store-bought fittings in MIK's link are probably made of SS that is about 1mm thick, plus or minus. 2mm would be overkill unless you are going to do your own fabrication to include welds.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
    Age
    67
    Posts
    805

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MiddleAgesMan View Post
    The store-bought fittings in MIK's link are probably made of SS that is about 1mm thick, plus or minus. 2mm would be overkill unless you are going to do your own fabrication to include welds.
    Thanks MiddleAgesMan,
    I think, you are right - 1 - 1.5 mm will be enough
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
    Age
    67
    Posts
    805

    Default

    Hi again

    I've just drawn CAD sketch of this hardware - it will be available as PDF for you soon (if anybody interested in )

    See JPG attachements
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Washington, DC, USA
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Mik-

    The cheap and simple setup looks beautiful, but do you ever have any concern about damaging the hull? I remember once splitting an unreinforced transom by running aground on the rudder. The rudder on Beth is a bit out-of-the-way to raise by hand, but have you given any thought to a fail-safe detachable system?

    -Peter Belenky

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy Peter,

    Good point. I think it works because there is no transom and the rudder blade is so shallow. Much more likely to hit the 3ft deep centreboard. I doubt that anyone will be planning to go really fast in 300mm deep water or will get into it without noticing with the centreboard up higher than the rudder.

    The water I spent most of the time sailing in ... the lower Murray River and lakes ... there are limestone lines that go across the river and across the lakes. When you hit one .. you really know it! Sailed there many years and had to repair the back edge of my centreboard maybe 3 times (over 10 years)

    Best wishes

    MIK

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
    Age
    67
    Posts
    805

    Default

    MIK

    What are you thinking about kicking up pivoting rudder for Beth? It would be possible to use longer/deepper rudder's blade (shown on plans as an option is deepper one but not pivoting) for shallow waters...
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy Robert,

    I think swinging blades are the work of the devil. They are so bad in almost every conceivable circumstance that it is amazing that we have persevered so long with the foolish things.

    I don't think Beth needs a deeper rudder blade - and if it touches and you have to jump out, the water will be lower than your knees.

    If you are trying to sail in such shallow water with a swinging blade it will be so far back it will be hopeless at steering.

    If anyone does want to put a longer swinging blade on, they are welcome of course. My advice is
    1/ No weights in the rudder blade to make it sink
    2/ Use a positive pull down of spectra. 50% of the problems with swinging rudders is because the rope used to pull them down stretches.

    The other 50% of the problem is because swinging blades are dumb. Unless you can't get to the rudder to push a dagger/OZ type down (remember the OZ type is not my invention and may even come from NZ originally. If you cannot reach the rudder, you just have to put up with the general crappy performance of swinging blades.

    Hehe

    MIK

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
    Age
    67
    Posts
    805

    Default

    Thank you MIK for reply,

    This is a "dagger/OZ type rudder" from your FLICKR :

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3196/...cdfabd81_o.jpg

    For Beth I need to remove tiller and mount rudder's yoke there ...it's so simple
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Hi Robert,

    I would suggest choosing the designed fixed rudder in preference to anything else.

    MIK

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
    Age
    67
    Posts
    805

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    I would suggest choosing the designed fixed rudder in preference to anything else.
    Hi MIK,
    I think you are right - fixed rudder as designed only circa 30 cm under boat's bottom plunged is . This one is simpler and lighter a lot
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


Similar Threads

  1. First sail of my new BETH on video!
    By outofthenorm in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 17th November 2008, 10:04 PM
  2. Plans for Beth Available digitally?
    By jbbaird in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 16th October 2008, 10:01 PM
  3. BETH - Sailing Canoe
    By Boatmik in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 30th August 2008, 08:54 PM
  4. Beth Ireland DVD
    By baxter in forum BANDSAWN BOXES
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 31st December 2006, 03:42 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •