BETH -YuanFen- Building a wooden sailing canoe in Poland - Budowa drewnianej kanadyjk

**keyhavenpotter** · 30th May 2009, 04:03 PM

Originally Posted by Boatmik

because the sail just has a very local dent from the mast rather than the batten spreading it out.

Good point.

Were your battens profiled, or the same all the way along?

I think I have mentioned before that my Scow lug rig is stayed. I find it just so interesting that with the mast top held in place, in strong winds, with lots of downhaul, the mast bends away from the sail and does not distort the sail at all. It makes my boat untouchable on port tack in strong winds.

Raid41 will be a very different matter though with mast bending away, a la Laser, and battens being distorted as you describe.

On the reefing, I mention going round the boom, just as an after though. So you are thinking top shelf of boom is ok with reefing hole in correct place, and reefing line goes through top shelf, to cheek block and hook at mid-boom?

I think the L boom suits RAID41 very much, as you say, very neat, minimalist, clever.

Brian

**Boatmik** · 30th May 2009, 06:29 PM

Howdy,

I had a bit of a play with wooden battens but found them just a little prone to breaking. found that plywood was a bit more resistant to maltreatment than thin timber battens .. the old cane we all used to use has disappeared, it was less brittle than timber. Glass battens will be Ok, but it is more stuff to buy at retail prices.

Probably would put a cleat on the reefing outhaul at the back end of the boom and use a short length of rope to tie through the back reefing eyelet and under the boom so you could use the reefing line like an outhaul on a laser.

Like the thick blue rope here, but you only need a single loop with a reef knot rather than go around and around and around.

Just because you are reducing sail doesn't mean you don't want to crank in some depth when reaching or flatten the foot right out upwind, or leave a bit of depth in the bottom in a blow upwind if the waves are slowing the boat.

Interesting about the stayed lug with a flexi mast (good argument for carbon) bowing away from the rig. Would not have thought of that at all.

MIK

**robhosailor** · 1st June 2009, 08:05 PM

Hi Boatmik and All,

On saturday I made an error...

Bottom was cutted off with 4-5 mm outside marigin - it was correct! ...but it's look was disturbing of me...

On saturday I've finished side panels - at present they are symmetric and ready for glue...

...And... I've cutted off that bottom's outside marigin!!! I'm so silly!!!

Than bottom needs to be wide = chinelogs + sides!!! And now... bottom is narrower than sides! Stupidity is worse than fascism!

I've traced another line for chinelogs - narrower 4 mm per side. My boat needs to be narrower 8 mm than designed. 8 mm is almost 1% of her total designed beam... It will be probably invisible.

Michael - have you better advice for me???

**Daddles** · 2nd June 2009, 09:02 AM

Originally Posted by robhosailor

...And... I've cutted off that bottom's outside marigin!!! I'm so silly!!!

Than bottom needs to be wide = chinelogs + sides!!! And now... bottom is narrower than sides! Stupidity is worse than fascism!

Ahh, another builder just like me

I've been known to work to the principle - measure twice, cut once, swear, reach for a new piece of timber

Richard

**m2c1Iw** · 2nd June 2009, 10:49 AM

Originally Posted by Daddles

Ahh, another builder just like me

I've been known to work to the principle - measure twice, cut once, swear, reach for a new piece of timber

Richard

Richard and Robert if you haven't already guessed my log in name is

measure twice cut once I wish

Cheers
Mike

**robhosailor** · 2nd June 2009, 06:29 PM

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

measure twice cut once

It's to late

... gentlemen!

It was: measured correctly, cutted correctly and... cutted again

Medicine for stupidity are not!

Signify no answer by Boatmik is...

His beautiful design demaged is

**Boatmik** · 2nd June 2009, 10:03 PM

Yesterday I did a reply to this Robert, but it looks like it didn't load ... I will rewrite now.

**Boatmik** · 2nd June 2009, 10:13 PM

If you still have the line marked it can be done this way.

You don't need extra width on the bottom for the chine logs, just to cover the edge of the side panel plywood.

Glue the chine log onto the bottom on the inside edge of the line - which is where it should be. So the drawn line actually represents the glue join between the chine log and the side panel plywood.

If you have cut exactly on the line then the chine log can still be fitted as normal, but the side panel will line up with the bottom face of the "Bottom Panel". This will make the sides lower by the thickness of the bottom.

Michael

**robhosailor** · 2nd June 2009, 10:43 PM

Originally Posted by Boatmik

If you still have the line marked it can be done this way.

You don't need extra width on the bottom for the chine logs, just to cover the edge of the side panel plywood.

Glue the chine log onto the bottom on the inside edge of the line - which is where it should be. So the drawn line actually represents the glue join between the chine log and the side panel plywood.

If you have cut exactly on the line then the chine log can still be fitted as normal, but the side panel will line up with the bottom face of the "Bottom Panel". This will make the sides lower by the thickness of the bottom.

Thank you Michael a lot!!!

I have a question:
I think 6 mm horizontally plywod on bottom is a lot stronger than vertically 4 mm plywood edge of sides in contact with ground.

Need I to fill and tape with epoxy this edge after mounting?

As an attachement I send drawing with two situations:
1. The bottom is cutted off as mine and side is outside of the bottom
2. The bottom is with 4 mm outside marigin off chinelogs and bottom covers the thiny sides...

**Boatmik** · 2nd June 2009, 10:58 PM

Actually ... I have just reread the plan .... you have done nothing wrong at all ... The chine log gets glued to the bottom panel with its edge on the line on the bottom panel.

When the glue is hard the little bit of extra ply is planed off so it matches the chinelog.

**robhosailor** · 2nd June 2009, 11:03 PM

Originally Posted by Boatmik

you have done nothing wrong at all ... The chine log gets glued to the bottom panel with its edge on the line on the bottom panel.

When the glue is hard the little bit of extra ply is planed off so it matches the chinelog.

Thanks a lot again!!!

UFFF!!! I have outside marigin circa 0.5 mm still...

I'm not so silly than I've thinked off

**robhosailor** · 9th June 2009, 09:28 PM

Sorry All for "technical" break - I' have a flu...

...but thanks of it I will to change bill of materials - I will use epoxy for glueing and coating.

**Boatmik** · 10th June 2009, 05:02 PM

Glad you are well enough to do some typing Robert! I have been getting a few hits from your Polish website recently.

MIK

**robhosailor** · 16th June 2009, 07:53 PM

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Glad you are well enough to do some typing Robert!

Actually MIK - "technical" break still - ...pneumonia

**b.o.a.t.** · 16th June 2009, 11:51 PM

That was badly planned Robert !!
Supposed to do pneumonia in winter when you can't get out, rather than
waste your summer with it !!

Get well soon bloke.

cheers
AJ

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